American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

418 Records

Title Publication Year
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo
Alpamayo. On August 20 we climbed Alpamayo. Vitaliano Alvarón was on my rope* and Basques Emilio Hernando and Juan San ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo and Tayapampa
Alpamayo and Tayapampa. In the first part of our expedition we attempted unsuccessfully to climb Alpamayo using the classic approach ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Yerupajá, Northwest Ridge
Yerupajá, Northwest Ridge. Dave Wilkinson and I visited the Cordillera Huayhuash and climbed the northwest ridge of Yerupajá (21,765 feet). We ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Tasacra Grande Oeste, Tsacra Chico Norte, Rasac, Ninashanca, Yerupajá, Trapecio
Tsacra Grande Oeste, Tsacra Chico Norte, Rasac, Ninashanca, Yerupajá, Trapecio, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our group consisted of Frenchmen Nicolas Jaeger and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhaush, Yerupajá, West Face
Yerupajá, West Face. The best climb our group did was the west face of Yerupajá. Climbing alpine-style with a haul ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhaush, Yerupajá, Ski Descent
Yerupajá, Ski Descent. Very difficult ski descents continue to be made. Patrick Vallençant skied down the west face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhaush, Jirishanca, South Face
Jirishanca, South Face. Our group, consisting of Matt Kerns, Tom Hargis, Gwen Hall, Hal Tompkins, Brian Cox and me, set ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhaush, Sarapo, Northwest Face
Sarapo, Northwest Face. A few brief moments under the west face of Siulá convinced Tom Sisson and me that we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhaush, Sarapo, Southwest Face
Sarapo, Southwest Face. In Cajatambo an Italian expedition, led by Casimiro Ferrari, met a Swiss one returning from having unsuccessfully ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhaush, P 5297, Jurau Group
P 5297, Jurau Group. Italians from Trieste, Renzo Zambonelli, leader, Luciano Cergol, Piero Gerin, Sandra Matjak, Tullio Piemontese, Fulvio Cekada and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Pumasillo, West Ridge
Pumasillo, West Ridge. A Japanese five-man-and-a-woman expedition established Base Camp on June 9 at 13,950 feet west of Pumasillo. They found it ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Campa I, Cordillera Vilcanota
Campa I, Cordillera Vilcanota. On August 311 soloed Campa I and the following day Argentine Alberto Miori and I repeated the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Cinajcira and P 5310, Cordillera Vilcanota
Cinajcira and P 5310, Cordillera Vilcanota. Andreas Anke, Peter Brunner and I climbed P 5310 (17,422 feet) on July 7 and Cinajara (5471 meters or 17,949 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Hualca Hualca, Cordillera Volcánica
Hualca Hualca, Cordillera Volcánica. An Italian expedition had as members Celso Salvetti, leader, Vittorio Meroni, Fabio and Mariola Masciadri, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Misti and Other Peaks, Pre-Columbian Ascents
Misti and. Other Peaks, pre-Columbian Ascents. In 1979 the Museo de la Universidad Nacional de San Agustín, Arequipa, released the ...
AAJ
Notes
1980
South America, Bolivia, Illampu-Ancohuma Group and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real
Illampu-Ancohuma Group and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. The magnificent cirques east of Illampu and Ancohuma lured me back this year, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Bolivia, Illimani Norte, North Face
Illimani Norte, North Face. Franco de Fachinetti, Roberto Giberna, Tony Klingendrath, Dr. Giorgio Chiriaco from Italy, with the help of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Bolivia, Ancohuma, Gorra de Hielo, Viluyo I and II, Hancopiti IV and VII
Ancohuma, Gorra de Hielo, Viluyo I and II, Hancopiti IV and VII. Our expedition established Base Camp on the east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Bolivia, Ancohuma, East-northeast Face
Ancohuma, East-northeast Face. The route we climbed on Ancohuma was to the right of the one done in 1978 by Cosimo ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Bolivia, Ancohuma, West Face, and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real
Ancohuma, West Face, and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. As training for a Himalayan expedition to commemorate the 50th anniversary of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Bolivia, One-day Climbs, Cordillera Real
One-day Climbs, Cordillera Real. It is possible to climb Andean peaks in a single day from La Paz. On my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real
Cordillera Real. Andreas Anke, Peter Brunner and I made the following climbs in the Cordillera Real: Jacha Pata (5424 meters or 17,795 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Bolivia, Illimani Traverse, Pomarata, Sajama
Illimani Traverse, Pomarata, Sajama. Our Regensburg expedition was composed of Ria Putz, Heidi Hildebrandt, Roman Schönbuchner and me as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Bolivia, Cerro Lipez and Cerro Nuevo Mundo
Cerro Lípez and Cerro Nuevo Mundo. Aldo Franceschini, Romeo De Stefani, Dr. Ostilio Campese and I as leader arrived ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Argentina, Nevada de los Tambillos, 1976, Northern Andes
Nevado de los Tambillos, 1976. Northern Andes. Unreported until recently, an Argentinian expedition had made on March 12, 1976 the second ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Argentina, Aconcagua, Southeast Ridge, Second Ascent
Aconcagua, Southeast Ridge, Second Ascent. Spaniards Xabier Erro, Martín Zabaleta and Juan Hugas made the second ascent of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Argentina, Cerro La Mano and Other Peaks, Cordón de los Penitentes
Cerro La Mano and Other Peaks, Cordón de los Penitentes. Our expedition was composed of Pablo Hülskamp, Alejandro ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Argentina, Mercedario, East Face, 1975
Mercedario, East Face, 1978. On December 19, 1978 we established Base Camp at 15,100 feet in the Río Blanco valley. On December 25 Theo ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Argentina, Cerro de la Plata
Cerro de la Plata. Takashi Tanabe, Yukihiro Yanagasawa and Osamu Tominaga climbed the south face of the Cerro de la ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Chile, San Perdo and Other Peaks, Northern Andes
San Pedro and Other Peaks, Northern Andes. The Federación de Andinismo de Chile held its Ninth National Convention between ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Chile, Parinacota and Cerro El Palomo
Parinacota and Cerro El Palomo. Richard Waetjen climbed Parina- cota (20,768 feet) on November 3, 1977 with three Chileans. The peak lies near ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Chile, Ojos del Salado, El Muerto, Mulas Muertas and Other Peaks
Ojos del Salado, El Muerto, Mulas Muertas and Other Peaks, Puna de Atacama. We were Theo Dowbenka, Rudolf Friedenhuber, Austrians, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Chile, Alto de los Leones, Southwest Pillar
Alto de los Leones, Southwest Pillar. Chileans Gino Casassa, Alejandro Izquierdo and Englishman Jim Lindsay made on January 17 the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Fitz Roy, First Ascent by a Woman, 1975
Fitz Roy, First Ascent by a Woman, 1978. The Californian route on Fitz Roy was climbed in early 1978 by three South ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Fitz Roy, Super Couloir, 1975
Fitz Roy, Super Couloir, 1978. Charlie Fowler and Mike Munger made the third ascent in rapid time of the Super Couloir ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Fitz Roy and Aguja Guillaumet
Fitz Roy and Aguja Guillaumet. On January 4 Chris Blatter, Jim Jennings and I arrived at the entrance of the Parque ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet and Other Peaks
Aguja Guillaumet and Other Peaks. In November a young group from Bariloche spent three weeks in the Pollone valley behind ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Refugio Autocamping, Lago Viedma, Patagonia
Refugio Autocamping, Lago Viedma, Patagonia. On November 15 an inn opened on Lake Viedma near the foot of Fitz Roy at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Fortress, Paine Group
Fortress, Paine Group. In January Keith Myhill, Phil Burke and Mick Horlov climbed very nearly to the top of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
Eastern Darwin Range, Near Stoppani Glacier
Eastern Darwin Range, Near Stoppani Glacier. In the early 1960s while returning with Eric Shipton on a Chilean naval vessel ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
Europe, Eiger, North Face
Eiger, North Face. On September 20 Steve Shea and I completed the 1938 route on the north face of the Eiger. We ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
Europe, Climber's Exchange Program in Yugoslavia
Climbers’ Exchange Program in Yugoslavia. All too many times we were to hear a phrase that summed up our trip ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
Europe, Climging in Czechoslovakia and East Germany
Climbing in Czechoslovakia and East Germany. My trip to Czechoslovakia was much enhanced by the warmth and hospitality of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
Asia, Sikkim, Simvu Southeast
Simvu Southeast, Sikkim. A 15-man team from the National Cadet Corps was led by Major Puskar Chand. They trekked from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
Asia, Sikkim, Siniolchu
Siniolchu, Sikkim. Eighteen members of a team from the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute of Gangtok climbed this peak (22,610 feet) in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
Asia, Nepal, Kangchungtse (Makalu II)
Kangchungtse (Makalu II). All members of an eight-man expedition climbed Kangchungtse’s east ridge from the north col. Base Camp ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
Asia, Nepal, Makalu, Polish Attempt, 1975
Makalu, Polish Attempt, 1978. The Polish expedition, led by Janusz Kurczab, had difficulties at the Indian frontier and lost weeks with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
Asia, Nepal, Jannu Attempt
Jannu Attempt. A Czechoslovak expedition led by Ivan Galfy unsuccessfully attempted a new route on Jannu, the west ridge. They ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
Asia, Nepal, Mount Everest
Mount Everest. Our expedition consisted of New Zealander Nick Banks, American Ray Genet, Swiss Hans von Känel, Germans Tilman ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse
Lhotse. The world’s fourth-highest peak, 27,923-foot Lhotse, was first climbed by Swiss in 1956 and then by Germans in 1977. Our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1980