American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

431 Records

Title Publication Year
Tales of a Western Mountaineer
Tales of a Western Mountaineer, by C. E. Rusk. With a portrait of C. E. Rusk by Darryl Lloyd. Seattle: ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
1979
Climb! Rock Climbing and Colorado
Climb! Rock Climbing in Colorado, by Bob Godfrey and Dudley Chel- ton. Boulder: Alpine House, 1977. 275 pages, with photos and one ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
1979
The Mountains of Canada
The Mountains of Canada, by Randy Morse. Hurtig Publishers—Edmonton, Alberta; Mountaineers, Seattle, 1979. 105 color photographs. Price $29.95. This is the first ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
1979
Mountain Climbing for Beginners
Mountain Climbing for Beginners, by Mike Banks. Edited for American readers by Andy Kauffmann, Stein and Day, 1978. Softback. 96 pages, 37 line ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
1979
Cannon, Cathedral, Humphrey's and Whitehorse
Cannon, Cathedral, Humphrey's and Whitehorse, A Rock Climber’s Guide, by Paul Ross and Chris Ellms. International Mountain Climbing School, ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
1979
A Climber's Guide to Devils Tower National Monument
A Climber’s Guide to Devils Tower National Monument, by Terry Rypkema and Curt Haire, 1977, 80 pages, 8 photos. Price $5.95. The review ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
1979
William F. Unsoeld, 1926-1976
WILLIAM F. UNSOELD 1926-1979 On Sunday afternoon, March 4, Willi Unsoeld and one of his students, Janie Diepenbrock, were killed in ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1979
Vera Watson, 1932-1975
VERA WATSON 1932-1978 On October 17, 1978, Vera Watson fell to her death on Annapurna I. She and Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz were climbing ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1979
Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz, 1942-4978
ALISON CHADWICK-ONYSZKIEWICZ 1942-1978 Alison was born in Birmingham but grew up and spent her formative years in Cornwall. She started ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1979
Sheldon E. Moomay, Jr., 1944-1975
SHELDON E. MOOMAW, JR. 1944-1978 On July 29, 1978, Sheldon Moomaw was killed in a fall on 24,580- foot Noshaq in Afghanistan. ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1979
Kesler L. Teter, 1933-1975
KESLER L. TETER 1933-1978 Kes Teter, my friend and oft-times climbing buddy, is still climbing. An astonishing statement? Not really. ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1979
Jean Juge, 1908-1975
JEAN JUGE 1908-1978 Last August American mountaineers learned that Professor Jean Juge of Geneva, the man who for years had ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1979
Alvin E. Peterson, 1903-1975
ALVIN E. PETERSON 1903-1978 Alvin was “Pete” to his many friends and companions of the hills. Educated at Berkeley as ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1979
Ruprecht Otto Kammerlander, 1940-1975
RUPRECHT OTTO KAMMERLANDER 1940-1978 You entered our lives as a warm wind on melting snow, a newness that startled and ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1979
Edward O. Nester, 1938-1975
EDWARD O. NESTER 1938-1978 On a survey of an elegant route on Mount Austerity in the Northern Selkirks of British ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1979
Dyson Duncan, 1908-1975
DYSON DUNCAN 1908-1978 Dyson Duncan, the first member of the American Alpine Club to join the American Mountain Troops and ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
1979
Thirty - Second Annual Report of the Safety Committees of the American Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Canada
This is the thirty-second issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and the third that has been edited and published ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
1979
Avalanche, British Columbia, Yoho Park, Chancellor Park
AVALANCHE British Columbia, Yoho Park, Chancellor Peak Lief-Norman Patterson (40) and his son, Thor (12), of Golden, and J.R. Saarinen (17) of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Avalanche, Alberta, Banff, Parker's Ridge
AVALANCHE Alberta, Banff, Parker’s Ridge Graham Tretick and five companions were ski touring on Parker’s Ridge on 15 February 1977. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Avalanche, Alberta, Rocky Mountain, Bow Peak, West Face
AVALANCHE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow Peak, West Face Two climbers were glissading down the west face of Bow Peak at ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Avalanche, Alberta, Rocky Mountain, Lake Louis
AVALANCHE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise Doug McKay was making a second ski descending traverse of the slope of Big ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Avalanche, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Howard Douglas Creek
AVALANCHE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Howard Douglas Creek Twenty clients of Canadian Mountain Holidays and three other persons left Sunshine Village ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Prussik Failure, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise Icefall
PRUSSIK FAILURE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise Icefall Brent Davis, J. Northcote, and two companions set a fixed rope on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Fall on Ice, Placed No Protection, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Deltaform
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Deltaform Jock Richardson (19), Cam Cairns (19), and Mike Down (20) started at 0330 ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Fall on Rock, Piton and Nut Failure, ontario, Bon Echo Park
FALL ON ROCK, PITON AND NUT FAILURE Ontario, Bon Echo Park Mike Tschipper (16) was leading the last pitch, grade 5.10, of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Fall in Crevasse, Climbing Unroped, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabasca Glacier
FALL IN CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabasca Glacier John Howard and a companion ascended the Athabasca Glacier on 23 ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Failure of Bolt Anchor, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain
FAILURE OF BOLT ANCHOR Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain Cameron Cairns (20) and Randy Clark (24) had climbed Cascade waterfall on 3 March 1978 ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Falling Off a Cornice, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Assiniboine
FALLING OFF A CORNICE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Assiniboine Aliester (Bugs) McKeith and two companions were climbing the north face ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Stranded on Rock, Inexperienced, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Louis
STRANDED ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Louis Three young climbers, Phil Smith, Scott Duncan, and Ron Carmichael, started ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Falling Rock, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, The Pinnacles
FALLING ROCK Alberta, Rocky Mountains, The Pinnacles On 7 July 1978, John Darragh (21) was belaying his companion who was leading a route ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Fall on Rock, Snow, Climbing Unroped, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Victoria
FALL ON ROCK, SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Victoria Darryl Bouchard, James Ross, and Steve Thomas were descending ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Failure of Sling, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Yamnuska
FAILURE OF SLING Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Yamnuska Thomas Peiffer (22) was being lowered from Yamnuska on a rope by his belayer, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Fall on Rock, Piton and Nut Failure, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Yamnuska
FALL ON ROCK, PITON AND NUT FAILURE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Yamnuska Alan Fielding (34) was leading the second pitch of the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Heat Exhaustion, British Columbia, Coast Range, White Mountain
HEAT EXHAUSTION British Columbia, Coast Range, White Mountain A group of young men and women were taking a four-day Introductory ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Rappel Failure, British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mt. Austerity
RAPPEL FAILURE British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mt. Austerity On 24 July 1978 Edward P. Nester and Julius Bede, both experienced climbers, attempted ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Fall Through Cornice, Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, British Columbia Mountains, Spearman Peak
FALL THROUGH CORNICE, FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Spearman Peak Keith Boyer (20), Steve Nickolls (24), and three ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
LOSS OF CONTROL, VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, North West Territories, Ellesmere Island, Grise Fiord
LOSS OF CONTROL, VOLUNTARY GLISSADE North West Territories, Ellesmere Island, Grise Fiord Peter Rogers was glissading a 40-degree snow slope ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Exposure, Fatigue, Frostbite, Alaska, Mt. McKinley
EXPOSURE, FATIGUE, FROSTBITE Alaska, Mt. McKinley On a winter ascent of the Muldrow Glacier route, Fred Barstad (29) had frostbitten his ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Fall on Ice, Placed No Protection, Alaska, Chugach State Park
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION Alaska, Chugach State Park On April 21, John M. “Mickey” Hill (30) and Charles Head were ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Fall on Ice, Climbing Unroped, Alaska, Mt. McKinley
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED Alaska, Mt. McKinley On May 7, while descending unroped from above Windy Corner at the 13,500- ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Avalanche, Alaska Mt. McKinley
AVALANCHE Alaska, Mt. McKinley AI Aaporta and Josef Carmichael (age unknown) were near the top of the couloir on the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Cerebral Edema, Altitude Sickness, Alaska, Mt. McKinley
CEREBRAL EDEMA, ALTITUDE SICKNESS Alaska, Mt. McKinley On June 1, Bruce Hickson (22), Tom Crouch (23), and George Gonzales (26), members of an Air ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Cerebral Edema, Exhaustion, Bad Weather, Alaska, Mt. McKinley
CEREBRAL EDEMA, EXHAUSTION, BAD WEATHER Alaska, Mt. McKinley On the morning of June 22, while at 14,000 feet on the West Buttress, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Fall on Snow, Descending Unroped, Alaska, Chugach State Park
FALL ON SNOW, DESCENDING UNROPED Alaska, Chugach State Park On the evening of August 7, 1978, Mark Figura (24), Bob Mintz (27), and Ralph ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Party Separated, California, Yosemite Valley
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATED California, Yosemite Valley On January 1, Marvin Johnson (13) and Kendall West (20), novice ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Party Separated, California, Mt. Shasta
EXPOSURE, PARTY SEPARATED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT California, Mt. Shasta On February 3, 1978, Ed Paterson and Ron Sova (34) attempted a winter climb of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Stranded, Bad Weather, Fatigue, California, Yosemite Valley
STRANDED, BAD WEATHER, FATIGUE California, Yosemite Valley On March 31, Joel Seton (16) and Jeffrey Inman (17) got stuck on The Nose of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection, California, Yosemite Valley
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION California, Yosemite Valley On May 13 at 9:30 a.m., Darich Rapitrich (26) was attempting to climb ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Rappel Failure, California, Yosemite Valley
RAPPEL FAILURE California, Yosemite Valley John Garten (24), John Nygaard (22), and Jeffrey Graves (22), all experienced 5.10 climbers, fell to their deaths on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979
Fall on Rock, No Protection, Self-Rescue, California, Yosemite Valley
FALL ON ROCK, NO PROTECTION, SELF-RESCUE California, Yosemite Valley On May 18, according to his partner, Steve Keiser (19) was leading the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1979