American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

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226 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Ellesmere Island
Ellesmere Island. The 1976 Ellesmere-Makinson Expedition arrived in Grise Fiord via Kenn Borek Air from Resolute on July 27; our goal was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1977
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Fay, North Face
Mount Fay, North Face. Laurie Skreslet and Lanny Johnson in July made a very difficult new route of nine pitches ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1977
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Temple, North Face, Central Pillar
Mount Temple, North Face, Central Pillar. On July 18 and 19 Mike Eastburn and I did a new variant on the north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1977
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Gladsheim Peak, Valhalla Group, Southwest Face, Selkirks
Gladsheim Peak, Valhalla Group, Southwest Face, Selkirks. On September 10, Craig Martinson and I climbed a new route west of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1977
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Mount Amon-Ra, East Face, Purcells
Mount Amon-Ra, East Face, Purcells. Lured by accounts of dizzying, steep, sound quartzite on the walls of the Egyptian Peaks, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1977
North America, Greenland, Apostelens Tommelfinger, Suikarsuak, South Greenland
Apostelens Tommelfinger, Suikarsuak, South Greenland. The French Alpine Club’s expedition was led by Marceau Agier and composed of M. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1977
North America, Greenland, Agpatut and Ino, Alfred Wegener Peninsula, West Greenland
Agpatut and Ino, Alfred Wegener Peninsula, West Greenland. We had the opportunity to join Jordi Riera, who had sailed all ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1977
North America, Greenland, Spanish Expedition to West Greenland
Spanish Expedition to West Greenland. An expedition of the Unió Excursionista de Catalunya was composed of Ramó Barceló, Joan Freixas, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1977
North America, Greenland, Akuliaruseq Peninsula, West Greenland
Akuliaruseq Peninsula, West Greenland. Our group of 21 left Italy on July 20 and traveled by plane, helicopter and whale boat to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1977
North America, Mexico, El Gran Trono Blanco, Northeast Face, Sierra Juárez
El Gran Trono Blanco, Northeast Face, Sierra Juárez, Baja California. A new climb via the pillar on the northeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1977
South America, Colombia, Sierra Nevada de Cocuy, Southern Peaks
Sierra Nevada de Cocuy, Southern Peaks. I used the upper valley of La Cueva to tackle several peaks in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1977
South America, Colombia, La Reina, South Face, Pico Ojeda, Northwest Face and Pico Colón
La Reina, South Face, Pico Ojeda, Northwest Face and Pico Colón, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Jim Wells and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1977
South America, Ecuador, Fraile Oriental and other Peaks
Fraile Oriental and other peaks. In December, 1975 three Ecuadorians made the first ascent of “Fraile Oriental” (c. 17,000 feet), an ice ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1977
Accidents in North American Mountaineering Thirtieth Annual Report of the Safety Committees of The American Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Canada
This is the thirtieth volume of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the first that has been edited and published ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
1977
Fall Into a Crevasse and Exceeding Abilities—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow Glacier
FALL INTO A CREVASSE AND EXCEEDING ABILITIES—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Bow Glacier. Serge and Christianne Pageau (47), Georges Laurier, and two ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Falling Rock and Failure to Follow Route—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain
FALLING ROCK AND FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain. On July 16, 1975, a party of eight army cadets ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Slip on Snow—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, High Rock Range, Mt. Bishop
SLIP ON SNOW—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, High Rock Range, Mt. Bishop. Peter Vermeulen, Herb Kariel, and a companion were descending ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Hit by Falling Ice—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Ball Range, Stanley Peak
HIT BY FALLING ICE—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Ball Range, Stanley Peak. On July 13, 1975, John Adler, Hans Weidner, and two ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Fall in River—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Blaeberry River
FALL IN RIVER—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Blaeberry River. Mountain climbers frequently have to cross rivers, and occasionally drown in ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Falling Rock–British Columbia, Bugaboo Range, West Buttress of South Howser Tower
FALLING ROCK—British Columbia, Bugaboo Range, West Buttress of South Howser Tower. Thom Nephew (26) was prospecting the ridge approach to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Hit by Avalanche—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Fisher Peak
HIT BY AVALANCHE—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Fisher Peak. Chris Sadleir and Bob Bauman (23) and Mavis Bauman were approaching the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Fall on Rock and Piton Failure—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Frontal Range, Yamnuska
FALL ON ROCK AND PITON FAILURE.—Alberta, Rocky Mountains Frontal Range, Yamnuska. Jim Bay and Dan Griffiths were climbing the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Fall into Crevasse—British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Illecillewaet Glacier
FALL INTO CREVASSE—British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Illecil- lewaet Glacier. James Tutt (24) and a companion were attempting to climb ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Fall on Ice—British Columbia, Kokanee Glacier Park
FALL ON ICE—British Columbia, Kokanee Glacier Park. Ron Homenuke (24) and two companions were traversing Kokanee Glacier from the true ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Falling Rock—British Columbia, Southern Selkirks, Mt. Marion
FALLING ROCK—British Columbia, Southern Selkirks, Mt. Marion. Four climbers were approaching the crest of the ridge of Mt. Marion ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Fall on Rock and Inadequate Equipment—Ontario, Bon Echo Park
FALL ON ROCK AND INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—Ontario, Bon Echo Park. Richard Lamb (16), who had climbed for 3 years, was making a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Slip on Rock and Climbing Unroped—Ontario, Milton, Rattlesnake Point
SLIP ON ROCK AND CLIMBING UNROPED—Ontario, Milton, Rattlesnake Point. Mark Johnson (18) had climbed with a school group on May 2, 1976, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Misuse of Belaying Device—Ontario, Milton, Rattlesnake Point
MISUSE OF BELAYING DEVICE—Ontario, Milton, Rattlesnake Point. Dave Embury (35) was climbing third on the rope of a 5.5 route in ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Falling Rock and No Hard Hat—Ontario, Milton, Rattlesnake Point
FALLING ROCK AND NO HARD HAT—Ontario, Milton, Rattlesnake Point. Kim Rodgers was injured on the forehead on May 2, 1976, when ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Falling Rock—Quebec, Mont Pinnacle, Lac Lyster
FALLING ROCK—Quebec, Mont Pinnacle, Lac Lyster. On July 2, a climber displaced, by a few inches, a block near the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Falling Rock—Quebec, Mont St. Hilaire
FALLING ROCK—Quebec, Mont St. Hilaire. Michel and Daniel (18) DeRoy finished climbing the Voie Normale on Mont St. Hilaire on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Piton Failure and Fall on Rock—Quebec, Val David, Mont King
PITON FAILURE AND FALL ON ROCK—Quebec, Val David, Mont King. On August 1, 1976, Julien Belanger (20) was leading la Traversee on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Avalanche—Alaska, Mt. Foraker
AVALANCHE—Alaska, Mt. Foraker. Toshio Hirakawa (29), Yoshitsugo Yamaya (23), and Kenjo Koshiishi (28) were members of a five-person Japanese party planning to ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Diabetes, Inexperience—Alaska, Mt. McKinley
DIABETES, INEXPERIENCE—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Jon Kushner (20) was a member of the Cleveland Bicentennial Mount McKinley Expedition climbing the West ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Exposure, Fatigue, Inexperienced—Alaska, Mt. McKinley
EXPOSURE, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCED—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. The National Crampoon party of ten members was flown onto the Kahiltna Glacier on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Fall into Crevasse—Alaska, Mt. McKinley
FALL INTO CREVASSE—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Ian Wade (30), Jen Jern (28), Mathew Wells (29), Ray Smutek (39), Robert Redmayne (32) and James Roscoe (25) were ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Fall into Crevasse—Alaska, Mt. McKinley
FALL INTO CREVASSE—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. The Muldrow-West Buttress Traverse party began their climb by flying into Kantishna. From there, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Fall Climbing Alone—Alaska, Mt. McKinley
FALL, CLIMBING ALONE—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Gunther Schmidt (35) was a member of a five-person Australian expedition climbing the West Buttress ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Fall, Inadequate Equipment, Exposure—Alaska, Mt. McKinley
FALL, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXPOSURE.—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Joe Ebner (28), Richard Rose (41), Bill Joiner (25), and Larry Fanning (28) were members of a ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Pulmonary Edema—Alaska, Mt. McKinley
PULMONARY EDEMA—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Edward Guleke (29) was a member of an expedidon which was organized privately and then contacted ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Pulmonary Edema—Alaska, Mt. McKinley
PULMONARY EDEMA—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Charles Gasser (20) was part of a six-person expedition ascending Mount McKinley via the Muldrow Glacier ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Pulmonary Edema—Alaska, Mt. McKinley
PULMONARY EDEMA—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Charles Gasser (20) was part of a six-person expedition ascending Mount McKinley via the Muldrow Glacier ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Falling Rock—California, Sierra Nevada
FALLING ROCK—California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Abbot. Marilee Henry (31), and Joyce Krause (37) were on the last pitch leading to the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Failure to Follow Route, Darkness, Party Separated—California, Mt. Mills
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, DARKNESS, PARTY SEPARATED— California, Mt. Mills. Steve Lester (29) of Alhambra went on alone to climb Mt. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Rappel Failure—California, Pinnacles National Monument, Tombstone Rock
RAPPEL FAILURE—California, Pinnacles National Monument, Tombstone Rock. On May 15, R. B. Fischer (27) and Mitchell R. Haydon (16) left the Chaparral ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Failure to Test Handhold—California, Mt. Haeckel, Sequoia-King's Canyon
FAILURE TO TEST HANDHOLD—California, Mt. Haeckel, Sequoia-King’s Canyon. Don Burgess (19) and four companions were climbing the East Ridge ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Harness Failure—California, Practice Cliffs
HARNESS FAILURE—California, Practice Cliffs. A Mountain Safety Research climbing harness broke at the anchor point when the belayer caught ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Fall—After Climb Completed—California, Tahquitz
FALL—AFTER CLIMB COMPLETED—California, Tahquitz. Stan Klein, a climber from Loma Prieta Chap. RCS who has moved to LA, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Fall, Solo Climbing—California, Yosemite Valley, Church Bowl
FALL—AFTER CLIMB COMPLETED—California, Tahquitz. Stan Klein, a climber from Loma Prieta Chap. RCS who has moved to LA, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977
Fall While Descending—California, Yosemite Valley, North Dome Gully
FALL WHILE DESCENDING—California, Yosemite Valley, North Dome Gully. John Shiner (23) and two friends had successfully climbed the Arches Direct 5.7 ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
1977