American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

147 Records

Title Publication Year
Makalu, 1954, California Himalayan Expedition
CALIFORNIA HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION WILLIAM W. DUNMIRE AND WILLIAM UNSOELD Part I: Preparations and the March to Base Camp Five years ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca
Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca LEIGH N. ORTENBURGER For nearly a century mountaineers have been attracted by the Andes in ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
Mt. Deborah and Mt. Hunter: First Ascents
Mt. Deborah and Mt. Hunter: First Ascents FRED BECKEY During our expedition this spring to the northwest face of Mt. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
The First Traverse of Mt. McKinley, A First Ascent of the South Buttress
The First Traverse of Mt. McKinley A First Ascent of the South Buttress MORTON S. WOOD During the summer of 1953 ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
McKinley, Northwest Buttress
McKinley, Northwest Buttress DONALD H. O. McLEAN It was rather unusual that both routes first attempted by Dr. Frederick Cook ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
Record of the First Approach to Mt. McKinley
Record of the First Approach to Mt. McKinley JOHN C. REED, JR. U.S. Geological Survey,1 Washington 25, D. C. In 1902 ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
University Peak, 1954
University Peak, 1954 GIBSON REYNOLDS The privileged first climbers to visit a major alpine region share an experience that is becoming ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
Stanford Coast Range Expedition, 1954
Stanford Coast Range Expedition, 1954 NICHOLAS B. CLINCH At noon, June 25th, Bill Fisk, chief pilot for Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc., ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
Mt. Ida and Other Climbs
Mt. Ida and Other Climbs FREDERICK L. DUNN A history of the northernmost Canadian Rockies, the mountains of the Mt. ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
Two Expeditions in the Northern Purcells
Two Expeditions in the Northern Purcells PETER ROBINSON In late August 1953 four friends and I completed a high-level traverse through ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
Expédition au Gaurisankar et Mission Scientifique au Nepal
Expédition au Gaurisankar et Mission Scientifique au Nepal RAYMOND LAMBERT Translated from the French by Joan E. Fisher, Alpine ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
Switzerland's Bregaglia in 1951
Switzerland’s Bregaglia in 1951 DON M. WOODS One of Switzerland’s finest granite climbing areas is Val Bregaglia or, as ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
Korean Climbing
Korean Climbing CAPT. FREDERICK M. GOLOMB and THOMAS A. MUTCH Korea is a country few mountaineers visit by choice, but ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
A Fight for Life on Monte Rosa
A Fight for Life on Monte Rosa GUY M. EVERETT MOUNTAINEERING is full of light and air. The early call, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
Post War Mountain Training
Post War Mountain Training LT. COLONEL ERWIN G. NILSSON At the close of World War II the United States Army ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
Tests on Roped Climbing Techniques
Tests on Roped Climbing Techniques WILLIAM E. SIRI The instant a rope is uncoiled, mountaineering becomes, in part, an engineering ...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
Conrad Kain
Conrad Kain ALBERT H. MacCARTHY Once again I have thoroughly enjoyed reading Conrad Kain’s Where the Clouds Can Go (2...
AAJ
Feature Article
1955
Tetons
Tetons. During the past few years many important new climbs have been made in the Tetons. Since for one reason ...
AAJ
Notes
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, Northwest Ridge of Buch Mountain, August 11, 1953
Northwest Ridge of Buch Mountain, August 11, 1953. Leigh Ortenburger, Mary Sylvander, and Steve Jervis made the first descent of this ridge. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, North Face of Shadow Peak, July 24, 1950
North Face of Shadow Peak, July 24, 1950. On this 500-foot face some very difficult climbing was encountered by Bob and Doris ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, South Ridge of Nez Perce, July 3, 1954
South Ridge of Nez Perce, July 3, 1954. Bob Merriam, Bill Buckingham, and Ed Clark made their approach from Garnet Canyon up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, Southeast Ridge of Middle Teton, August 15, 1954
Southeast Ridge of Middle Teton, August 15, 1954. Bill Buckingham and Virgil Day, using several pitons for protection, climbed the more easterly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, Southwest Ridge of Disappointment Peak, July 9, 1952
Southwest Ridge of Disappointment Peak, July 9, 1952. This spectacular ridge rises 1500 feet from Garnet Canyon. Being “purists,” Bob Merriam and Dick ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, West Face of the Exum Ridge of Grand Teton, July 23, 1954
West Face of the Exum Ridge of Grand Teton, July 23, 1954. Dick Pownall and Bob Merriam began their climb some 300 feet ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, North Face of the East Ridge of Grand Teton, August 9-10, 1953
North Face of the East Ridge of Grand Teton, August 9-10, 1953. This variation, made by Harold Gudro and Jim Shane, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, Direct North Face of Teewinot, August 24, 1948
Direct North Face of Teewinot, August 24, 1948. Dick Emerson and Pete Owen made the first ascent of this spectacular route. Approximately 150 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, Northwest Ridge of Teewinot, September 7, 1954
Northwest Ridge of Teewinot, September 7,1954. John Fonda, Jean Fonda, Don Decker, and Marty Benham followed this long ridge all the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, North Ridge of Mt. Owen, July 31, 1951
North Ridge of Mt. Owen, July 31, 1951. Previously, Dur- rance, Coulter, and McLane had climbed the spur leading from Valhalla Canyon ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, South Face of Symmetry Spire, July 3, 1950
South Face of Symmetry Spire, July 3, 1950. Dick Pownall and Leigh Ortenburger completed this new route which lies between the Durrance ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, Black Dike of Mt. Moran, August 20, 1949
Black Dike of Mt. Moran, August 20, 1949. This unique route, followed by Dick Pownall and Dave Van de Water, goes up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, East Ridge of West Horn, June 24, 1953
East Ridge of West Horn, June 24, 1953. Fred Ayres and A. E. Creswell made this first ascent. Ayres also made the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, Pinnacles
Pinnacles. Some of the most enjoyable climbing in the Tetons is to be found on the various pinnacles in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, Northern Peaks
Northern Peaks. The northern section of the range has been little climbed and several unclimbed peaks still remain. On July 27...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Wind River Range
Wind River Range. On July 4, 1954, we made the first ascent on Gannett Peak (13,785 feet) of the northwest ridge, which rises ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Washington, Cascades, Ascent of the West Face of the North Peak of Mount Index
Ascent of the west face of the North Peak of Mount Index. Easily accessible from the highway, scarcely 60 miles from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Washington, Cascades, Mt. Goode by Catamaran
Mt. Goode by Catamaran, Cascades. One of the important unclimbed faces among the large peaks in the Northern Cascades was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Alaska, First Ascent of Mt. Drum
First Ascent of Mt. Drum. On June 4, 1954, the bush pilot, Herb Haley, flew Keith Hart from Chitna to a little ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Alaska, Mt. McKinley
Mt. McKinley. When we, Jaq Lasner, Norm Saunders, and I, all students at U.C.L.A., first thought of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Alaska, Split Thumb, Juneau Ice Field
Split Thumb, Juneau Ice Field. Looking northeast from camp 16-A on the Lemon Glacier, one sees the intriguing rock sentinel ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, U.S., Alaska, Mt. Wrangell Project
Mt. Wrangell Project. (The following is an excerpt from a report by Philip C. Bettler, leader of the 1954 project.—Editor.) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Kaskawulsh Group
Kaskawulsh Group, Yukon Territory. In 1954 a number of summits forming the divide between the Kaskawulsh River and the Shakwak Valley ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies
Canadian Rockies. A party of six from Washington, D. C., including Don Hubbard and Sterling Hendricks, made first ascents of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Alberta, Portal Creek Region
Portal Creek Region, Canadian Rockies. Near the head of Portal Creek and east of the Ramparts lies a mountain group, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Purcell Range, Farnham Group
Purcell Range, Farnham Group. During August 1954 a party of five, four of us members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
North America, Canada, Nunavut Territory, Arctic Alpine Ascents on Bylot Island
Arctic Alpine Ascents on Bylot Island. During the past summer I was a member of an expedition sponsored by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
Europe, Norway, Spitzbergen
Spitzbergen. A group from the Österraichischen Alpenverein, under the leadership of Hans Gsellmann, spent five weeks in Spitzbergen from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
South America, Argentina, Andes
Andes, Argentine. Jesús Casanova, Ricardo Gallop, and Renzo Vidoni of the Club Andinista Mendoza made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
South America, Argentina, Andes, Aconcagua
Aconcagua. The 23,036-foot summit of the Americas was climbed several times in the past year. The most notable was the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
South America, Chile, Andes
Andes, Chile. On January 28, 1954, Juan Harshein, Bion González, and Walter Bachmann of the Club Andino de Chile made the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955
South America, Peru, Andes
Andes, Peru. The Austro – Swiss expedition under the leadership of Fritz Kasparek, who climbed the North Face of the Eiger ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
1955