Bondit Peak (a.k.a. Bondid, formerly Muntin) is a prominent mountain of a little less than 6,000m situated near the head of the Bondit Glacier at 35°20'29.06"N, 76°16'27.59"E. The Bondit Valley rises southwest from the Kande Valley, which in tur...
In April 2018, a team of eight, mostly French, did a 150km ski tour going up the Nobande Sobande Glacier, across the Skam La (5,600m), and down to Snow Lake and the Biafo Glacier. On April 24, Hélias Millerioux and Léo Taillefer (both from France)...
Terzo Paradiso (700m, AI5 M5) on the south side of Gateway Ridge, Börgen Bay. The drop-off point was off the right side of the picture, while the pick-up point was off the left side. Photo by Marcello Sanguineti Gian Luca Cavalli, Manrico...
Calvarin Peak from the southwest with the approximate line climbed by the French team to make the first ascent. Photo by Manu Pellissier French guides Sam Beaugey and Manu Pellissier, with their client François Calvarin, left ALE's Union Glac...
Four climbers and two Moroccan Berber friends sat with feet dangling over a dizzying precipice, slaking our thirst with a Flag beer and finally resting our shredded hands. Mohammed’s beat box chanted melodic Berber tunes, which competed with the s...
In December I returned to Oman, where I had lived from 2008 until 2017, to reunite with my longtime climbing partner and first-ascent collaborator Jakob Oberhauser, who has been guiding in Oman since 2003 and has done untold new routes there. Al...
The first time I visited Oman was in 2011, together with the very strong "seniors" Sigi Brachmayer, Horst Fankhauser, Oswald Oelz, and Albert Precht. This climbing trip was really important to me for exploring and understanding the area. I retur...
When time off for climbing is limited, it makes sense to choose a destination with guaranteed good weather. With interesting culture and plenty of climbing potential, Oman fit the bill perfectly for our winter holidays. After familiarizing ours...
Not all of us have the good fortune of living close to paradise, and not all of us have the luck to be able to travel when we would like to. And so that leaves some of us no alternative but to adapt ourselves to the situation and travel when work ...
In eastern Sudan there lies a great collection of large granite domes situated above the town of Kassala with a few existing routes and plenty of impressive lines and potential first ascents (see AAJ 2014). Jonny Baker (U.K.) and I arrived in K...
In December I returned to Oman’s Western Hajar Mountains to climb long new routes, this time with Lee Burbery, also from New Zealand. We felt welcomed as always, and despite continued infrastructure development in Oman, the areas we visited rema...
It’s just a rock climb, right? That’s how it started out, anyway. In 2015, Hayden Kennedy and I planned a 10-day trip to Mt. Hooker with the goal of establishing an independent route up the large and imposing northeast face. We reeled in Jesse ...
Over the course of a year and a half, Brandon Adams established a new route on the Lost Brother that quickly became a favorite among high-end free climbers. Wayward Son (13 pitches, 5.12d or 5.11 A0) features three crux pitches of 5.12 through w...
In early summer, Chris Koppl and I hiked out to Little Yosemite Valley to check out new possibilities on some large walls that seemed to have a lot of potential. The first was the northwest face of Bunnell Point, approximately four trail miles e...
As we quietly enjoyed the waning warmth of the late fall sun on the summit of Half Dome, a breathtaking view of the sweeping valley leading toward El Cap stretched before us. After 10 years of climbing all sorts of routes, from Alaska to the Canad...
In July, Chaz Langelier, Cam Smith, Brian Prince and I made the long haul to Lake Basin to check out this photogenic place and attempt a large and likely unclimbed arête, photos of which had intrigued us for the last couple of years. With an abu...
In early June, Jeremy Ross, Sean Sullivan, and I climbed the highly recommended Michael Strassman Memorial Route (700’, III 5.10d) on the south face of Lone Pine Peak. We were planning to check out the south face of nearby Peak 3,986m on the fol...
North Dome, near Road’s End in Kings Canyon National Park, showing the two lines completed by Daniel Jeffcoach, Vitaliy Musiyenko, and Brian Prince in summer 2019. Lucid Dream (1,500’, 9 pitches, V 5.11 A2) is on the left, and Great White Nor...
Over the course of two separate trips, Joey Jarrell and I completed a new route on the Cartago Wall, the second known line on the granodiorite wall (see AAJ 2018), and possibly the first to summit the formation. We set off on our first trip on ...
In June, my good friend Andy McQuillen and I spent nine days exploring the rock walls of the Tuttle Creek drainage. We did a variety of fun routes, the longest being a new line on the prominent right-leaning arête on the left side of the south fac...