Graham Zimmerman and I left camp at 10:45 a.m. on January 25,2010, just after it stopped raining and snowing. At 2:30 p.m. we stood at the base of the previously unclimbed east face of Cerro Los Gemelos, or the Twins. The first pitch was a 5.9R ...

FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO CREVASSE, WEATHER Oregon, Mount HoodOn July 11, 1987, at 0400, Arthur Anderson (59), Elmer Parrott (40) and Robert Cooke (30) left Timberline Lodge to start their ascent to the summit of Mount Hood. Being the most experienc...

STRANDED, LATE START, WEATHER, EXPOSURE, PROBABLE FALL ON SNOW/ ICE (TWO), AND HYPOTHERMIA (ONE)Oregon, Mount Hood, Cooper SpurThis high profile accident used such technological search tools as airborne thermal imaging, unmanned drones, and cellph...

Churen Himal West Attempt. Korean Kim Byoung-Hoon and a companion wanted to climb Churen Himal West by the west ridge. Kim and a Sherpa reached Camp II at 19,500 feet on April 5 but the next day he gave up because of frequent avalanches and the ve...

Cerro El Cóndor, possible first ascent and other ascents. In February and March some friends and I climbed Antofalla, a 6,409m (GPS 6,470m) volcano approximately 80km southeast of Llullaillaco. On the summit we found a 8m x 6m platform made by Inc...

Colorado: (1) Needle Mountains. On 2 September 1951 Dale Johnson, a 20-year-old Colorado University student from Colorado Springs, fell 55 feet while climbing with one companion, Harry Nance of Denver. Neither the cause of the accident nor the par...

Proboscis, Logan Mountains. In August, Spaniards José María Codina and Joaquím Olmo climbed the southeast face of Proboscis. They fixed rope on the lower half of the 700-meter-high wall. Their route probably mostly followed the 1963 first-ascent r...

FALLING ROCK, “SLED RIDE” DOWN SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE,DISTRACTIONCalifornia, Mount ShastaI was on the second day of a planned four-day ascent of Green Butte Ridge (to include a night on top) of Mount Shasta on May 8, 1989. I was alone and about 3450...

Gashebrum I (Hidden Peak) and Tragedy. Every expedition set up its Base Camp on the Gasherbrum Glacier on the western side of the peak because the southern approaches from the Abruzzi Glacier were banned by the military in view of the Indo-Pakista...

FATIGUE, EXPOSURE, PARTY SEPARATED, FALL ON SNOW, AMS, DEHYDRATION, INADEQUATE CLOTHINGAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 14, 1991, four members of the Korean Blue Fire Expedition left their high camp at 18,200 feet at Denali Pass on the West Buttress r...

Batura. Our expedition led by Piotr Mlotecki set out from Aliabad on June 6. The approach took five days. Base Camp was established on a beautiful meadow below the moraine of the Batoqshi Glacier at 4000 meters. On June 12, Camp I was placed at 46...

Ramjak, attempt. This is a challenging 6318m unclimbed mountain with a sharp icy summit. The peak is located near the Shingo La (ca 5100m), which is crossed on a popular trekking route from Himachal Pradesh to Zanskar. Prior to 2001 there had been...

Lampak II Attempt. An Indian expedition from Bombay, composed of leader Ajit C. Shelat, Raju Waldalkar, Ajay Tambe and Prashant Bhagdikar, explored the previously unvisited Kalla Bank (glacier), north of Nanda Devi. Two attempts were made on Lampa...

Rock Climbing in Britain. David Jones. Collins Willow, London, 1984. 192 pages, black and white and color photographs, charts, diagrams, map, glossary. £20.00.If I were Mick Lovatt, I’d be happy. Mick was lucky enough to get two beautiful action p...

A Climber’s Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia, by J. Monroe Thorington. Third edition, 12mo, xii + 225 pages. New York: American Alpine Club, 1955. Price, $3.00 ($2.25 to members).The new edition of this guidebook anticipates the 19...

Kohe Hevad. Another Polish expedition from Posnan to the Ishmurch valley was led by Jerzy Marcinkowski. They climbed Kohe Anoshah (17,356 feet) on August 7 and Kohe Hevad (22,471 feet) on August 14. Neither was a first ascent. On August 9 A. Dobek...

Annapurna South Face Tragedy. One of France’s foremost climbers, Pierre Beghin, and I had hoped to climb a new, difficult route on the south face of Annapurna between the 1970 British route and the 1981 Japanese one. Starting on September 29, we f...

In recent years the north side of the High Hindu Kush has again become accessible to climbers. There are beautiful peaks, untouched walls, and lonely valleys. There is also a lack of food, fuel, tourist infrastructure, mobile phone coverage and em...

Guillaumet. Shawn Tierney and I climbed the Fonrouge route on the northwest buttress of Guillaumet on January 1 and 2, 1994. We rate the 15-pitch climb as Grade IV or V, 5.9, A2.Perry Norris, Pacific Crest Outward Bound School

California, Mt. Baden-Powell—On Jan. 9, Richard Skultin (29) and Alice Kuhn (27) were descending Mt. Baden-Powell after completing the ascent. The wind was strong and icy. On the descent they started across a steep slope—the footing was bad and tr...