Shadows—Half DomeJames BridwellCHARLIE ROW PULLED HIMSELF over to the belay station, clipped in and undid his rappel set-up. “You look fried,” I said as he moved around me into his portaledge. His normal good looks were drawn and grayed with insta...
California, Mt. Shasta. On 29 December, 1965, Les Wilson (34), John Crowley (20) and Fred Daenzer (20) left Berkeley, California, to attempt a climb of Mt. Shasta. In the course of the climb they became snowbound as the result of a violent storm f...
Torre Central del Paine— El Regalo de MwomaPaul Pritchard, EnglandTHIS IS THE STORY OF four friends, myself, Simon Yates, Noel Craine and Sean Smith and our new climb on the east face of the Central Tower of Paine.My ascender hits a fraction point...
When Ben Lepesant asked if I’d be interested in climbing classic routes in the Black Canyon, I did some research and discovered that the Hallucinogen Wall hadn’t been freed. Then I remembered its history and the story about the ice axes, and it be...
FRANK N. WATERMAN 1865-1948By the death of Frank N. Waterman on 19 January 1948, the city of Summit, N. J., lost one of its most prominent and honored citizens, for he had been a resident there for almost half a century and during the early years ...
High Mountains and Cold Seas A Biography of H. W. Tilman, by J. R. L. Anderson. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1980. 364 pages, illustrations, sketch maps. Price $20.00.Bill Tilman was the quintessential British explorer: tough and flexible as good le...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Since its organization in March 1947, the Sierra Nevada Section of the A.A.C. has held occasional meetings in the San Francisco Bay region. Recently, the increase of activity has created a need for regular quarterly ...
Note on “First Ascent”of Istor-o-Nal, 1955. Sr. Anglada states that, in order to reach the main summit, it was necessary to descend from the southwest ridge and strike southeast, descending some 100 meters to an intervening col en route. I suspect...
FALL ON SKIS, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsMark Stewart (24), Jeff Zell (26) and William Bowman (32) had decided during the winter that they wanted to ski the east face of Teewinot. Zell said that he and Stewart worked togethe...
Bandaka, 1966. Too late for inclusion in A.A.J., 1967 came word of an unsuccessful attempt on Bandaka. A group of students from Marseille, Vincent Bourges, P. Vidaillet, G. Dawson, F. Menniot and R. Lankester, failed about 500 feet from the summit...
Kongur: China’s Elusive Summit. Chris Bonington. Hodder and Stoughton, London, 1982. 224 pages, black and white and color photographs, maps, bibliography. £14.95In an age when mountaineering is concerned primarily with approaching old problems in ...
Dhaulagiri, Complete Southwest Buttress. Our international expedition hoped to make the first complete ascent alpine-style of the southwest buttress of Dhaulagiri, attempted by French in 1978 and 1980 up to 7500 meters and by Czechoslovaks in 1985...
Mount Reliance: Coast RangeHenry S. Hall, Jr.AS long ago as 1864 Alfred Waddington gave names to a few features visible from the line of his projected road from Bute Inlet up the Homathko Valley through the Coast Range. One peak of about 10,500 ft...
Ascent of the west face of the North Peak of Mount Index. Easily accessible from the highway, scarcely 60 miles from Seattle, and towering above the town of Index, Washington, are the three peaks of Mt. Index. This spectacular little peak, one of ...
Sam Ford and Eglington Fiords, Baffin Island. No climbers had visited these mountains since 1950 when three Swiss and an American in three months climbed 15 new mountains. The only other previous ascents were of two mountains in 1934. The Ottawa S...
From September 6 to October 5 Lionel Albrieux, Sébastien Bohin, Didier Jourdain, Dimitry Munoz, Sébastien Ratel, and François Savary, from the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne, made the first lengthwise crossing of the Cordillera Darwin. The ...
New altitude survey; Mt. Craddock, west face; Mt. Gardner, ascent; Mt. Tyree, attempt. As a continuation of previous GPS work on Mt. Shinn (2002), Livingston Island (2003), and the Vinson Massif (2004), another expedition from the Omega Foundation...
El Capitan, Muir Wall, Attempted Free Ascent. On April 15, Kurt Smith, Greg Epperson and I embarked on a ground-up free ascent of the Muir Wall. Our plan was to free-climb each pitch in redpoint or pinkpoint (gear left in place) style. We personal...
Ascent. Allen Steck, Steve Roper, and David Harris, editors. Golden, CO: The American Alpine Club Press, 1999. Large format, numerous color and black-and-white photographs. 314 pages. $24.95.Shortly after the New Year, the New York Times published...
New Routes on Familiar Canadian PeaksGeorgia EngelhardPRIOR to 1933 the traverse of Mt. Victoria had been made three times,1 in each case starting from Lake Louise, climbing North Peak, thence following the ridge over Main Peak to Abbot Pass. This...