Cathedral Rock, Northeast Buttress. On September 16, Paul Bellamy and I made what we believe is the first ascent of Cathedral Rock from the vertical east side. We climbed the 900-foot northeast buttress. From the meadows southeast of the peak we t...
Peak 12,380' (Kahiltna Queen*), South Face Couloir and Distant Lights. It’s maddening how many things can go wrong in this game of ours. The weather is a tough opponent, and gets the upper hand at some point. Snow is forever fickle. Personal fitne...
SNOW BLINDNESS-INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn June 11, Michael William Pope (45) lost his sight while descending from a successful off-season ascent of the Keyhole Route on Longs Peak. It was a particularl...
Trinity Peak, Southwest Peak. Our expedition was composed of Yoichi Kawasaki, Chiyoki Onodera, Yasuo Nikai, Osamu Nishihira, Dr. Akihiro Matsushita and me as leader. The name of Trinity Peak was given by an English expedition when they got a dista...
Watchtower and Castle Rocks, Sequoia National Park, 1984 and 1985. The easily accessible and exposed 8-pitch route, Watch Out, is on the central main face of the Watchtower about 30 minutes easy hiking from the Lodgepole Campground. Ron Carson, my...
Juneau Icefields. On August 10 John Rupley and I climbed the east ridge of the Snow Towers. After seven leads of friable rock we were on the northeast point, the lowest of the three-summited peak. NCCS III, F5. On the way back to our camp south of...
FALLS ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION PLACEMENTS, FAILURE OF NUTS, BELAY FAILUREColorado, Boulder and Eldorado Springs CanyonsFrom the months of May through September, 1983, a total of 33 accidents were recorded and categorized by Dr. Cliff Watts. ...
Kun and Nun. These two high peaks are being climbed frequently. An Austrian group led by Günther Hochhauser made its first attempt on July 24 but only Hans Stadlbauer got to the summit of Kun (7087 meters, 23,250 feet). The next day five more clim...
Long Canyon Area. In Short Canyon, the first side canyon on the right in Long Canyon, on the east face of Deadman’s Buttress, in May Stuart and Bret Ruckman climbed Stewing Over Art (I, 5.12—), aright-facing comer. In March, Katy Cassidy, Carol Pe...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Teewinot. On 10 August, Fred C. Jacobs (21) and four companions were descending Mt. Teewinot after a dual attempt on the summit via two different routes (2 in one party and 3 in the other). The party was regroup...
Sia Kangri and Baltoro Kangri III. Our expedition consisted of S. Hiraoka, S. Etori, S. Uemura, T. Mizuoshi, T. Kurita, K. Miyashita, T. Kobayashi, Dr. T. Takahashi, J. Futagami and me as leader. Having left Skardu on May 21 Kobayashi, Takahashi, ...
Gasherbrum II Tragedy. After arriving at Dassu by jeep, Glenn Brindeiro, Steven Casebolt, Donald Goodman, David Hambly, Dr. Brack Hattler, David McClung, Dr. Thomas Vaughan and I as leader on May 15 started our trek to Base Camp (16,500 feet), whi...
Schweizer Volksunst, by Titus Burckhardt and Lucas Lichtenhahn. 98 pages of text, with illustrations from drawings, and 72 full-page plates from photographs, some in color. Basle: Urs Graf, 1941. Price, $6.30.
The North Cascades National Park, photos by Bob and Ira Spring, text by Harvey Manning. Seattle: Superior Publishing Co., 1969. 143 pages, 109 black-and-white photos, 15 color plates, 2 maps. Price $17.50Here is another essay on the North Cascades...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1992. The 1992 climbing season on Mount McKinley was record setting in the number of climbers and mountaineering fatalities. This year marked the most intense period of rescue in the mounta...
P 5881, Munjan-Bashgal. The Americans Jack and Jeff Dozier on August 11 made the second ascent via the north ridge of P 5881 (19,295 feet), which had previously been climbed by the German Naturfreunde expedition.
Aguja Poincenot, Fitz Roy Group. An ascent of the northwest face of the Aguja Poincenot was made from December 17 to 21, 1970. This difficult 3000-foot face was climbed by the Argentines José Luis Fonrouge and A. Rosasco.
The Bear that Climbs. Russian climbers who made the first ascent of a 15,770-ft. peak in Russian Turkestan promptly named it, according to a midsummer dispatch from Tass, for the Chinese Communist leader Mao Tse Tung.Russian explorers have reporte...
Annapurna Dakshin Attempt, Ridge in South Face. Ken Andrasko, Jim Beall, Chris Bretherton and I as leader attempted the unclimbed ridge which splits the south face of Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South; 7219 meters, 23,683 feet). We climbed up the...
Thui I. An expedition from Waseda University was led by Jiro Kitaoka. Base Camp was established on the Kotalkash Glacier on August 20. They attacked the north ridge of Thui I (21,851 feet) and on September 16 reached 19,350 feet from Camp III at 1...