Masherbrum, Northwest Face. Our expedition consisted of Michael Larcher, Andreas Orgler, Hans Bärnthaler, Christoph Rimml, Thomas Burtscher and me as leader. After leaving Skardu on June 17 with 63 porters, we got to Base Camp on June 25 at 4300 m...
Lake District, Bariloche, Cerro Catedral. The granite spires around Refugio Frey in Cerro Catedral provide great rock climbing, with routes ranging from one to ten pitches in a beautiful alpine environment. Routes tend to be mixed, requiring an av...
Khan Tengri: A Russian expedition of last summer, under the leadership of a Mr. Pogrebezki succeeded in accomplishing the ascent of this peak, the highest summit of the Tien Shan, and confirmed the accuracy of Merzbacher’s determination of its alt...
Central Chile. On December 8, 1954, Jorge Chaparro and Raúl Vouriot made the first ascent of 13,616-foot El Paso.
Cloudveil Dome, “Nimbus,” Tetons. Steve Koch and I did a new five-pitch route on the northeast face of Cloudveil Dome, which we named “Nimbus.” The climb is a dark, wet chimney that really has no appeal except as an ice route. We have watched it c...
FALL ON ROCK, NO “SPOTTING” PROTECTIONBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Vowell GroupA large group from the ACC General Mountaineering Camp below the Vowell Glacier were bouldering at Tamarack Glen above the north margin of the glacier on July 2...
Nanda Devi. An eleven-man Indian expedition, organized by the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and under the leadership of Major Narendra D. Jayal, failed to climb Nanda Devi in July, 1957. They followed the route of the British-American Himalay...
Manaslu Attempts via the Northeast Face in the Post-Monsoon. Two Austri- ans, a Swiss and a German led by Austrian Horst Frankhauser reached 7300 meters on October 10 with bad weather and threatening avalanches. Spaniards Carles Gel, Victor Marín,...
Polish Climbers in the Cordillera Blanca. The Polish Earth Sciences Society Expedition carried out glaciological studies on the Broggi Glacier. They made the following ascents: Yanapaccha Oeste, Pisco, Huandoy Norte (via east couloir), Huasacarán ...
A.A.C., New York Section. The year 1983 was one of the most active and successful in the history of the New York Section. During the year members and guests attended a series of 10 lecture-programs on a wide range of topics. Featured speakers incl...
Nepal Peak, ascent via the southeast and south ridges. A 12-member expedition from the DAV Summit Club (German Alpine Club) led by Herbert Streibel went to the very rarely visited region of North Sikkim to attempt Nepal peak (7,153m). The team tra...
Panch Chuli II. An Indian army expedition from the Gorkha Rifles made the second ascent of the peak, 18 years after the first ascent. I led the 20-man team. We approached from the Darma valley in the east. Base Camp was at 3720 meters at Nyulpa an...
Josh Wharton’s and my route starts on the lower right of the broad southwest buttress at just under 4,000m, and climbs to the SW Summit (ca 6,237-6,250m, depending on the map) of Great Trango Tower. This was 17 pitches beyond the highest anchors w...
Kanjiroba. A Japanese expedition from Yamagata University made a successful ascent of Kanjiroba (22,583 feet) by a new route, the south face to the east ridge. The summit was reached on April 26 by Morishige Makano, Akisha Shiraishi and the sirdar...
Everest Post-Monsoon Ascents and Tragedy and Lhotse. Aside from the Himalayan Kingdoms Expedition described below, two other groups climbed Everest. A French military expedition of nine led by Alain Estève climbed the South Col route. On October 6...
FALL ON SNOW – UNUSUAL SLIPWashington, Mount ShuksanOn May 23, one of two clients sustained an ankle injury when the guide (29) lost his footing on the descent of Mount Shuksan. He slid down a snow slope, and pulled the clients from their stance. ...
Latok I, north ridge, attempt; Tony Tower, Releasing Bad Energy. Damian and Willie Benegas were again on the Choktoi for an attempt on the north ridge of Latok I. They arrived in base camp on July 22 and found conditions on the face to be the best...
Pingora, Southeast Face Direct, Wind River Range. In August Angus Thuermer and I roped up at the base of a very prominent left-facing dihedral on the southeast face. We followed this corner for two pitches to a large ledge on the right. From its r...
FALL ON ROCK, CAUGHT FOOT ON EDGE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Idaho, City of RocksOn August 29, 1992, Tim Mooney (24) decided to “Pink Point” a route which his partner, Paul Hodges (24), had already led. At the last bolt clip in, which he failed to make,...
AAC, North Central Section. The North Central Section is continuing to try to “get its feet” on the ground after having an open chair position for several years. The Section Web site, with its climbers’ message board and announcements of upcoming ...