Alpamayo Chico, Condoriri, Illampu, Cordillera Real; Quimsa Cruz. Holly Samson and I visited the easily accessed area around Condoriri. Our scenic Base Camp at 14,700 feet was an ideal spot to acclimatize and climb in a compact cirque of six or so...
Manaslu, southeast face to east ridge, first ascent. A large Ukrainian expedition, marking the 10th anniversary of the country’s independence in 1991, had as its objectives a new route up the southeast face of Manaslu (8163m) and the first ascent ...
Mountaineering in AntarcticaA survey of Continental climbingby Damien Gildea, AustraliaAntarctica has been hailed as the mountaineering destination of the 21st century, and not entirely without reason. In addition to containing almost every concei...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. M.C.A. membership grew to 350 in 1984. The highlight of club activities for the year was once again the two-day ice climbing class held in September at Matanuska Glacier, with 40 students and 10 instructors. The club...
Gasherbrum IV, Northwest Ridge Attempt. Tom Dickey, Charlie Fowler, Alex Lowe and I arrived at the Gasherbrum Base Camp on May 19, hoping to climb a new route, the northwest ridge of Gasherbrum IV. We had established a route through both icefalls ...
Cho Oyu. A 14-member Hungarian expedition led by Dr. Sándor Nagy successfully climbed Cho Oyu by the normal route. The summit was reached on October 4 by Ákos Koncz, József Straub and Austrian Reinhard Wlasich, on October 7 by József Csíkos, Lászl...
Memphis Mountaineers. Based in the Memphis, Tennessee area, the Memphis Mountaineers promote mountaineering sports among Mid-Southerners. They provide various types of mountaineering activities, the opportunity to meet climbing partners, and climb...
On the Admiration of Mountains, by Conrad Gesner. 4to. ; 55 pages, with 8 illustrations. Edition limited to 350 copies. San Francisco: Grabhorn Press, 1937. Price $5.00.In a finely printed volume are presented the first complete English versions o...
“Barasa” or “Changi Peak,”first ascent. Tomasz Polok and I established base camp on September 8 at 4,100m on the south side of the Nangma Valley, at the foot of Roungkangchan III. The north face of this peak is a prominent 500-600m rock wall, whi...
Siachen Peace Park, dead or alive? The 23rd anniversary of the Siachen conflict was marked by another disappointment. The last round of talks between the Defence Secretaries of India and Pakistan ended in April 2007 without an agreement. This was ...
ArcticProfessor Chamberlin has sent to the Club the ice-axe used in the summer of 1895 by R. D. Saulsbury, former Professor of Geology at the University of Chicago, as a member of the Peary Relief Expedition. The previous winter and spring Peary h...
Schweizerland, Various Ascents. In August and September, 1995, I was a member of the Dresdner Grönlandexpedition to the Angmassalik area (Scheizerland) in East Greenland. We went by self-made boat from Angmassalik-Angmassalikfjord to Tuno Bucht. F...
Arthur King Peters 1919 - 2001Art Peters, an AAC member since 1964, died peacefully at his home in Bronxville, N.Y. on June 2, 2001 at the age of 81.A 1940 graduate of Cornell, Arthur served during World War II as an officer in Army counter-intell...
Kang Yazé, Free Tibet. It was reported that in the summer of 1997, Pedro Rodriguez and Javier Perandones put up the 1000-meter snow and ice route Free Tibet on Kang Yazé (6404m). The initial 200 meters of the route were 45-50°; the final 800 meter...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWashington, Mount RakerOn July 18, Robert Porter (48) was descending the Coleman Glacier on Mount Baker when he lost control of his glissade and tumbled into a crevasse, landing on a kind of saddle that kept him f...
Jirishanca, Southwest Face. A French expedition climbed, though not to the summit, the southwest face of Jirishanca, repeating the route first climbed by Dean Caldwell and Jon Bowlin in 1971. They were plagued by earthquakes which rendered the slo...
The Enclosure, Northwest Ridge, Variation. A series of corners, formed of predominately white rock, is located several hundred feet left of the Kimbrough-Olson Variation on the north face of the Great Tower. Georgie Stanley and I found good climbi...
AVALANCHESWashington, Mt. RainerOn May 31, Todd Davis (24) of Sitka, Alaska, was killed high on Mt. Rainier when a slab avalanche swept him and two other climbers about 2000 feet down the mountain. Davis, Jones and Beckter were climbing to the sum...
The Incinerator, Ruta de Fruta. In October 1982 Simon King and I climbed this route following the obvious crack in the center of the face. We began at the top of a detached slab with aid moves around a roof to a flared slot that went free. A knobb...
Rupshu-Shara Shuwa, Second Ascent. It was reported that Annelies Ascharbl and Leo Graf from an Austrian expedition summited Shara Shuwa (6236 m) on July 27 via the east face. This was the second ascent of the mountain. The third was made the next ...