Light Weight Camping Equipment, by Gerry Cunningham and Meg Hans- son. Ward, Colorado: Highlander Publishing Company, 1959. 127 pages, numerous diagrams.This short, easily readable book contains a truly wonderful store of knowledge about camping e...
Glacier National Park, Various Ascents. E1 Niño gave northwest Montana the unusual mix of cold weather and little snow in November and December. As a result, most of the park roads were kept open, giving climbers easier access to several remote ba...
The North Face of Mount GeikieJohn R. Hudson"I am sure you have given me all the heaviest stuff," said Frodo. "I pity snails, and all that carry their homes on their backs”T. R. R. Tolkien, The Fellowship of the RingIAPOLOGIZE, dear reader,for the...
Anderl Heckmair: My Life, Eiger North Face, Grand Jorasses and Other Adventures. Anderl Heckmair. Translated by Tim Carruthers. Foreword by Reinhold Messner. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2002. 304 pages. $24.95.While best known for his role in...
TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-761959-7619771977USACAN.USACAN.Terrain1Rock14281277026Snow8001104135Ice25391River6111Unknown10200Ascent or DescentAscent11071325525Descent94691458Unknown1458164Immediate CauseFall or slip on ...
Bandaka Group. The members of the Japanese R.C.C. II* Expedition were Shigeo Yasukawa, leader, Shiro Shirahata, Takeshi Ishii, Hiroshi Hotta, Gaiki Ohashi, Kunio Nagasawa and myself as deputy leader. Our advance party, Ishii and I, arrived at Kabu...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—ANCHOR SLING KNOT North Carolina, Stone Mountain, The Great ArchOn May 25, I was climbing at Stone Mountain, NC. Hoping to do some sport climbing (I read that the routes were sparsely bolted) I brought only a li...
Shishapangma, first winter ascent. I was sick and tired of the extra-European alpinism I was doing; I did not find it as enthralling as 1 had imagined when as a young aspiring alpinist I read of the big undertakings on the great mountains of the E...
Flowers of the Western Himalayas. Rupin Dang. Indus, Harper Collins, NewDelhi, India, 1993. 140 pages, many color photographs.This is a guide to a small area of the Himalaya but it covers the territory often visited by naturalists, trekkers and to...
Up and Down California in 1S60-1864, the Journal of William H.Brewer. Edited by Francis P. Farquhar. Yale University Press, New Haven, 1930. Pp., 601 ; illustrations, 63; price, $6.00.During the past century American mountaineers have keenly follo...
Tuolumne Meadows. In Tuolumne Meadows, face-climbing standards are being pushed higher and higher. John Bacher has almost singlehandedly rewritten the rules in an area where the bolt is the most standard protection device; many of his climbs invol...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment Peak—Arthur N. Plaxton (20), and Richard O. Parmelee (20), an employee at Jackson Lake Lodge, left a note at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station at 7:30 a.m. on September 3. It stated that they were goi...
Siguniang IV, southwest face. Our initial team of four, which intended a leisurely trip to Siguniang National Park, saw itself reduced to two: Steve Wai Wah Yip (Geordie) and I. We decided to play on granite faces in the Changping Gou, walls that ...
Washington, trends and new routes. The summer of 2003 unfolded as the driest in a century, with rainfall 70-85% below normal. Seattle temperatures topped 70 degrees for a record 61 consecutive days. The unusual number of hot, dry days resulted in ...
SLIP ON ICE, AMS, EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress.May 13, Rangers Kevin Moore and Scott Metcalfe with volunteers Jay Hammond and John Evans carried loads from 14,200 feet to 16,200 feet on the West ...
Mountain Flowers of New England. By a committee of the Appalachian Mountain Club, Miriam Underhill, chairman. Boston: Appalachian Mountain Club, 5 Joy Street. 147 pages, ills. 32 color plates. Price $4.50.To some of us it is the flowers of the mou...
“Ice Cream Cone Mountain” Chugach Range. After a hair-raising crossing of the murky, rushing Matanuska River in a delapidated rowboat, John Samuelson, Hans Van der Laan and I followed fine, three-foot-wide moose freeways up the east fork of Carpen...
The mountains of the Stanovoi Range are located to the east of Lake Baikal in southeastern Russia. This vast territory, referred to as Transbaikalia, is crossed by the central part of the Baikal-Amur Railroad (BAM). The mountains have an alpine ap...
On March 2, a climber was five to seven meters into a lead on Pearl Necklace (50 m. WI 5+), without placing any protection. He had placed a tool and kicked one foot into a free-hanging icicle when it broke. The climber barn-doored backward, then f...
Central Rockies Section. On January 21 the Section hosted the debut showing of Skiing Mount Everest and the High Himalayas in the Foss Auditorium of the American Mountaineering Center in Golden. The movie was produced by Aspen resident and AAC mem...