RAPPELLED OFF END OF ROPE—TECHNIQUE (SPEED AND CONTROL)North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn January 1 Nathan Lane (23), with the U.S. Army, was being video taped in the Amphitheater to see how fast he could descend via “Australian Rappel” (...

Barron Saddle – Mt. Brewster Region, summary. With plums still to be picked, this extensive and remote mountain tract between the Aoraki Mt. Cook and Mt. Aspiring areas has seen continued activity from a motivated few. Guidebook author Ross Cullen...

Ikamiut Fjord, West Greenland. Our expedition comprised eight members of St. Andrews University, Scotland, led by Dr. Philip Gribbon. The others were Dr. Iain Smart, Bill Leddingham, Chris Doake, Jimmy Gilchrist, Ron Hilditch, Stuart Haworth and M...

Alaska, Mt. McKinley (2). The British Joint Service Expedition of six men had reached 17,000 feet on the West Buttress route of Mt. McKinley on about June 25. Camp had been established and the party was ready to proceed to the summit. John H. Oldh...

Campa Group and Southeast Ridge of Pachanta, Cordillera Vilcanota. From July 6 to 24 Monsieur J. and Mme S. Badier, M. Berquet, J. R. Bertucca, Mme N. Casile, G. Cerruti, C. Choquet, Dr. M. and Mme A. Drevet, Mile M. F. Gay, Mile L. Laporte, M. So...

Nanda Devi East Attempt and Tragedy. The British Garhwal Himalayan Expedition to Nanda Devi comprised Alan Kimber, David Challis, William (Ben) Beattie, Andrew Wielochowski, David Nottidge and me as leader. We suffered three major set-backs: (1) s...

Cube Point, Southwest Apex. Barry Corbet and Chuck Satterfield on September 4, 1966, climbed this new II, F8, A2 route on the familiar Cube Point. From the main Symmetry Couloir the base of the climb was reached via the subsidiary couloir leading ...

The Desert, various activity. Eric Bjørnstad reports that three previously unclimbed towers saw ascents in the fall:Tchaikovsky Overture (425', IV 5.11 A3, Dave Mealey and Joe Slansky) is located southeast of Moab, on the Wingate Sandstone between...

Kohe Sakht. Our expedition made the first ascent of Kohe Sakht (18,964 feet; Wala Zebak Peak 57) by the northwest spur. We were Mesdames J. Gaillard and A. Sandoval and Messieurs J. Lacouture, C. Macouin, D. Métayer, J.M. Poirier, Y. Racault, Dr. ...

Nanga Parbat North, Diamir Face. Our expedition was organized by the Section for High-mountain Research of the Slovak Geographical Society and the Sports Club lames in Bratislava. The scientific research team studied the adaptation to high altit...

Lone Mountain. On December 12, Jerry Kanzler, Ray Martin, Clare Pogreba, Peter Lev and I climbed the north face of Lone Mountain, a graceful peak near Bozeman, which stands aloof like an Oregon volcano. The main weakness in the 1100-foot face of s...

Central Brooks Range, 1985-1988. During the summers of 1985 through 1988, I and others have made several easy to moderate routes in the central Brooks Range. All routes were done in free time from work on a biological research project. The routes ...

STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Temple, Aemmer CouloirOn July 31, a group of four climbers set off to climb the Aemmer Couloir variation of the East Ridge of Mount Temple in Banff National...

Nilgiri Central Attempt. A post-monsoon Japanese expedition was led by Tsutomu Nishimura. They reached only about 19,000 feet before giving up the attempt in late October.

Terrace Tower, The White Tower first free ascent, and Light in August. Yan Mongrain and I arrived in the Cirque of the Unclimbables on July 28. On August 10 we brought our gear to Terrace Tower, a squat, flat-topped spire near Bustle Tower, to jus...

Tenpeak Mountain, Northwest Face. A Base Camp north of Tenpeak Mountain, a granitic subrange southeast of Glacier Peak and the Honeycomb Glacier, is over 20 miles from the road when using the Suiattle River approach. Except for a few hours of brus...

Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. This year saw considerable activity in the club, both in rock climbing and mountaineering generally. Although official outings were limited in the spring, members individually spent much time at Devils Lake and other...

Climbs by Indian Expeditions. A 12-member team of the Mountain Lovers Association left Asansol, West Bengal for the virgin peak Srikanta (20,120 feet) in the Gangotri region. They trekked from Jhala via Harsil and established Base Camp at 14,500 f...

Masa Gang, 1985. More information has been received on the first ascent of Masa Gang or Masang Kang than was reported on page 211 of A.A.J., 1986. The Kyoto University Alpine Club was led by Ryohei Hori. The main group of the expedition left Thimp...

Ishinca, Urus Este. My wife Lena and I with the porter Marcelino Vargas spent two weeks based at 13,800 feet in the Quebrada Ishinca. On June 7 we climbed Ishinca (18,143 feet) via the southwest ridge, finding a 100-foot difficult snow wall just b...