Swiss East Greenland Expedition. Max Gubser, Heiner Hagenbuch, Max Zumbühl, Ruedi Sauser, Chäpp Schindler, Otto Häfliger, Ueli Imdorf and I as leader spent eight weeks in the mountains of the so-called Schweizerland on the east coast of Greenland....
HACEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 12, Ka Eui-Ryong of the Korean Alpine Club Su Won Expedition, was unable to stand or walk without assistance. Eui-Ryong was lowered from the 17,200 foot camp, to the 14,200 foot NPS Ranger Camp on t...
Manual of American Mountaineering, edited by Kenneth A. Henderson. American Alpine Club, New York. Privately printed for purposes of copyright and not available for distribution. Trade edition to be issued by Houghton Mifflin Co. early in 1942.Thi...
Carstensz Pyramid, Various Ascents. The main aim was to climb Carstensz and by a new route if possible. After a six-day approach, we arrived at basecamp. On May 10, Tom Callaghan, Chris Brown, Mark Bowen and myself left for Carstenz East. We scram...
M.ount Challenger, West Peak. The first ascent of this peak was made by Ellie Street, Fred Beckey and me on July 14 from a Base Camp on Challenger Arm by angling across and up the Challenger Glacier to the west ridge of the peak. We ascended very ...
Holz Bemalen, Kerb Schnitzen, by Christian Rubi. 135 pages, profusely illustrated by drawings and photgraphs, with several color plates. Bern: Verlag Hans Huber, 1951. Price, $3.25.The Bernese Heimatschutz, which encourages the perpetuation of old...
Eldorado, West Arête. On August 24, 1969, Richard Emerson and I made the first ascent of the 2800-foot arête that leads directly up the west face to the summit of Eldorado. (Pete Schoening’s 1951 route is to the right (south) of this climb – Edito...
Stewart Valley Correction. In A.A.J., 1978 on page 553 part of the location was omitted. It should have read “70° 45’ N, 71° 30’ E.”
Peak 3596, East Face. It was reported that in June, Eddie Fay, Dan Krueger and Jay Rowe made the first ascent of the 3,000-foot east face of Peak 3596 in Prince William Sound. The trio climbed 14 rock pitches up to 5.10+ C2, followed by 1,000 feet...
Cuernos, Paine Group, Patagonia. In January, Paul Dix, Jim Mack and I entered the Paine massif, hoping to climb the Cuernos (Horns, c. 8000 feet). We were turned back 100 feet from the summit by bad rock and bad weather — and with profound respect...
Earlyn Dean 1939-2002Earlyn Dean died in her sleep at her winter home in Singer Island, Florida on March 31. Raised in Edmonton and Toronto, Earlyn spent most of her adult life in New York, New Jersey, and Vermont, where she was a part-owner of ma...
P 5800, Quimsa Cruz, 1976. A five-woman party, consisting of Taeko Noda, leader, Mieko Nagahata, Mitsuko Araki, Eriko Matsuda and Yoshiko Yamagata climbed a 5800-meter (19,029-foot) peak in the Quimsa Cruz. The peak lies southwest of Nevado Atorom...
Jimmy Chin, Giulia Monego, Kasha Rigby, and I established base camp on September 29, 2009, at 4,500m and the following day scoped a new access to the west ridge from the north. On October 4 we walked up moraine and climbed steep snow to the wes...
Victoria and Albert Mountains, Ellesmere Island. Dave Adams, Brad Albro, Steve Trafton, Al Errington, Bill Davis, Martin Waller and I spent four weeks in May and June climbing and exploring on Ellesmere Island. We flew by commercial jet from Vanco...
Mount Brewer, Northeast Face. Russell McLean and I made the first ascent of this face on September 11. The route starts in the first chimney to the right of the small overhangs on the rib leading directly up the face to the summit. We climbed abou...
Ocshapalca, South Face. Bernard Francou, Jean Michael Cambon and I reconnoitered a safe route on the east face of Cayesh but we could reach only 17,000 feet because of very bad weather. We moved across the range to Huaraz and then made a new route...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mt. RainierOn September 1, Dale Click (21) was killed when he fell 20 feet into a crevasse while descending from a glacier at the 8,800-foot level on the northeast side of Mount Rainier...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, RAPPEL/LOWERING FAILURES, AND INADEQUATE PROTECTION (INCLUDING NO HELMET)New York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksThere were 18 incidents reported from this popular climbing area this year. Of the twelve falls, six were the res...
Queenstown region, summary. Winter saw the development of Cigar Creek in the Eyre Mountains as an ice climbing venue. A few new routes were established. Johnny Davison and Rupert Gardiner made first ascents of Kapa O Panga (WI 5) and the Cold Ligh...
Mount Forel. An expedition from the Omon Alpine Club of Nippon University was under the leadership of Gi Miyahara. This was the first Japanese expedition to Greenland. They left Japan on June 28 for Angmagsalik via Moscow and Iceland. They were ac...