FALL ON ROCK, WEATHERCalifornia, Tuolumne Meadows, Daff DomeOn July 29, Hope Wolf (28), an instructor for the Yosemite Mountaineering School, was leading a group of six clients back from a day’s climbing at Daff Dome when they were caught by a mid...
Roca Grande de la Junta, Cerro Virgen, New Route. Catalans Joanfra Farreras, Xavier Teixidó, Josep Maria Esquirol, Pau Barrios and Manel Solís, with the collaboration of Guillem Barrios, climbed a new route on Roca Grande de la Junta in the early ...
Washington, Mt. Rainier. On the morning of September 10, a party consisting of Elmer Post (39), David Post (19) and James Bartram (19) attempted to make a one day hike to Camp Muir from Paradise and return. The weather at Paradise during the day w...
Sarah and Tony Whitehouse returned to the Hermelndal to finish their line attempted in 2007 (see AAJ 2008), left of Rapakivi Road on the east face of Tininnertuup IV. The pair used fixed ropes, and after climbing the first three pitches of Rapakiv...
FALL ON SNOW–LOSS OF CONTROL ON VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, IMPROPER CLOTHINGCalifornia, Mount BaldyOn April 16, veteran California mountaineer and author Robert (R.J.) Secor (48), glissaded out of control 1,200 vertical feet from near the summit of Mount...
The North American Andean Expedition, 1964Huandoy Sur and ChacrarajuHenry L. Abrons and Daniel E. Doody*COPA, PALCARAJU, HUANDOY SURThe best attempts to describe the 1964 North American Andean Expedition are prone to fall short, for it consisted o...
Niels Holgersen Nunatakker, multiple first ascents. In June and July, the team of Geoff Bonney, James Carnegie, Gordon Downs, David Keaton, John Starbuck, and Paul Walker climbed several peaks in the Niels Holgersen Nunatakker(N 73° 22'). Between ...
MOUNT SALISBURY had been on my mind almost daily for the past two years. It all started when Mike Heath, Bill Sumner, and Dusan Jagersky returned from Alaska’s Fair-weather Range after an attempt on Salisbury’s northwest face. (A.A.J., 1976, p. ...
As Sarah Garlick put it, “The dream was to gather a small team of friends and head somewhere unspoiled and far away… and to climb. I chose Greenland for a variety of reasons, but most of them came down to the simple allure of wildness. I knew I co...
In 1935 Lincoln Ellsworth sighted a mountain range in western Antarctica on his trans-continental flight. He named these peaks the Sentinel Mountains. During the 1957-58 austral summer, William Long and his traverse party became the first overland...
Siula Chico, A Scream of Silence, to summit ridge. Our five-member Slovene expedition to the Cordillera Huayhuash had plans for a direct line on the southeast face of Jiris- hanca and a new line on the southeast face of Siula Chico. However, two m...
Reminiscences of Mt. St. EliasWilliam WilliamsFOLLOWING a recent dinner of mountaineering friends in New York at which I gave an impromptu talk on the attempt made in 1888 to ascend Mt. St. Elias, I was asked to reduce to writing what I had said. ...
Chiantar Glacier Area, Exploration. From the virgin summits reached during the course of the 1997 Karambar expedition (see AAJ 1998, p. 315), an incredible vision opened before our eyes to the south: the vast, incredible expanse of the Chiantar Gl...
MY VENDETTA WITH Mount Hunter started in the late 1960’s with Bradford Washburn’s pictures in the American Alpine Journal. Mount Hunter, the third highest summit in the immediate environs of Mount McKinley, or better Denali, and I, a recent h...
Geographical Districts1951–20042005Number of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCANADAAlberta51414210336010British Columbia30711464110516Yukon Territory3527772110New Brunswick100000Ontario37967000Qu...
The Toose’s MoothMixed adventures on the north face of the Moose ’s Toothby Seth ShawIn the summer of 1994, Scott Simper, Kevin Sweeney and I, having climbed the relatively benign West Ridge route of the Moose’s Tooth, stood on top of the West Sum...
The Sierra Nevada, a slice of the earth’s crust 400 miles long and a hundred wide, was tilted upward along a fault line on its eastern edge. No cataclysm, this tilting took millions of years. When the range had attained nearly its present heigh...
Utah Mountaineering Guide, (and the best canyon hikes). Michael R. Kelsey. Kelsey Publishing Co. Springville, Utah, 1983.Utah is a state rich in its variety of natural wonders, both in mountains and desert. When you top out on a ridge or swing aro...
Peak Milo (pik 4,800) and Peak Misha (pik 4,750), ski descents. Martin Strasser and I went to the Kuilu range, travelling to the site of Pat Littlejohns base camp (ca 3,300m) in a surplus Soviet military vehicle (2001 AAJ, Pat Littlejohn, p. 341–2...
CHRIS PIZZO and Dick Dietz were right at home—pain and exhaustion are an essential part in the upbringing of serious expedition climbers and marathon runners. The two were attempting to climb the Peak of Communism in a single push from Camp III at...