Sarapo, Northwest Face. A few brief moments under the west face of Siulá convinced Tom Sisson and me that we did not want to play Russian Roulette with our lives on that face. The snow-and-ice northwest face of Sarapo, a short way up the glacier, ...

Selkirks. While doing geology, Hamish Mutch and I climbed most of the peaks in the Fang Creek, Downie Lake, Purity Range and Van Horne Névé areas. Innovations included a new route on Mount Wheeler via the longest ridge from Thor Glacier; new route...

South Fork Ice Routes. In April 1999, while flying over the South Fork near Cody, I discovered a new arena of ice. A day later we began the epic approach, six miles into the Shoshone Wilderness. We named the first and largest amphitheater Garden o...

Banderpunch, Black Peak. Hari Dang led his Doon schoolboys to the Black Peak (20,956 feet) of the Banderpunch group. The peak was climbed on June 14 by Goggi Aggarwala and Sherpa Nima. (First ascent by J.M.T. Gibson and two Sherpas on June 7, 1955...

Aconcagua, South Face. As we go to press, news reaches us of two new ascents on the south face of Aconcagua, previously climbed only by the French expedition of 1954. An Argentine group followed the French route, setting to work on January 5, 1966...

Mount Everest Ski Expedition. There were two Japanese expeditions at the same time on Mount Everest. The ski group were not interested in any attempt on the summit but was rather a publicity stunt for the exposition in Osaka. They lost six Sherpas...

Haramosh, West Ridge. It is reported in Iwa To Yuki of October, 1978 that a five-man Japanese expedition led by Kenji Shimakata successfully climbed this new route on Haramosh (24,309 feet). Sumiya Isono, Ryo Nishikori and the leader Shimakata got...

Gimmegela, Third Ascent. It was reported that a 14-man British Services expedition made the third ascent of Gimmegela (7350m) via the southwest ridge. The team (Pat Parsons, leader, Rob Magowan, Tug Wilson, Huan Davies, Nigel Lane Neil Peacock, Bo...

Guide to the John Muir Trail and the High Sierra Region, by Walter A. Starr, Jr. xiii + 145 pages, with frontispiece and map. San Francisco: The Sierra Club, 1934.This is the first comprehensive guide to the High Sierra trails to be published. One...

Peaks above Maligne Lake. Sixty-two members of the Iowa Mountaineers attended a summer camp in the Maligne Lake area. Base Camp was at the south end of the lake at the mouth of Coronet Creek. Eleven peaks were ascended; the following new routes we...

Notch Peak is 60 miles west of Delta, Utah, at the south end of the House Range. The 2,500-foot-high limestone north face was first climbed by Thomas Koch and Peter Diener Jr. in June. The route ascended right of center to a prominent chimney, mos...

Junction Peak, North Buttress. A late winter attempt on the north buttress of Junction Peak by John Rupley and me was frustrated by stormy conditions, although the long trek via Kearsarge Pass brought us to the foot of serious climbing. The buttre...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDNew York, ShawangunksA boy (9) was climbing on the practice rocks when he fell four to five meters to the ground, dislocating his elbow and shoulder. (Source: Brad Snyder)(Editor’s Note: This is the youngest climber r...

Traunstein Hindu Kush Expedition. A group of Germans from Traunstein, Karl Brenner, Dietrich von Dobeneck, Otto Huber, Fritz Wagnerberger and Karl Winkler, traveled in late August with a pack train for five days from Jurm in Badakhshan through the...

Thor, West Face Solo. Japanese Yasushi Yamanoi set up camp at the foot of the west face of Mount Thor on May 22 but could not begin his solo attempt on the route until June 20 because of bad weather. He climbed for the next eight days. After compl...

California, Death Valley National Monument, Telescope Peak. On 20 December, Grant Trigg (19) and a companion, Schultz, were descending from the summit of Telescope Peak. The two men attempted ice axe glissades over the steep fall-off of the Easter...

Trivor Attempt. Our expedition organized by the Czechoslovak Mountain Federation was led by me and composed of 14 climbers. We went to Nagar by Jeep and continued with 110 porters up the Gharesa valley and the Trivor (Gharesa) Glacier to Base Camp...

Lucania and Steele. We ascended the five-mile-long southeast ridge to Mount Steele (16,644 feet) and then traversed the south face of Steele from 15,000 to 16,000 feet, a rising traverse which took us to the southwest ridge of Steele, from which w...

The Ibex. Mountaineers interested in big game, who find themselves in N. E. Switzerland, should not fail to visit the Peter and Paul Park on the outskirts of St. Gallen, where ibex and chamois are bred for the National Park. The reserve, situated ...

AVALANCHE, WEATHER, OFF ROUTE British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonOn July 26, 1987, two well-equipped and at least moderately experienced climbers started walking in and camped at Berg Lake. The next day they climbed to about three hour...