Yerupcijá, Northeast Face. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Peter Soklic, Mato Podrekar, Radovan Riedl, Janko Ažman, Vojko Bucer, Izador Kotier, Kristijan Langus, Marjan Manfreda, Ljubo Nemecek, Dušan Polajnar, Joše Rožic, Miha Smolej and me. Af...
Climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Spring and Early Summer. Climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park continued to suffer from the lack of a guidebook. For nearly two years Walter Fricke’s guide has been out of print and many climbers hesita...
Mt. Strahan, 9960 ft. First ascent, July 7. D. Duncan, A. Megrew. From Skene-Strahan col by way of southwest shale arête, 1 hour, 15 minutes. Direct descent to Freshfield glacier, 50 minutes.
Loki, Asgard, Baffin Island. Our Australian Warren Lee, and I arrived at Summit Lake, in Auyuittuq National Park, on the last day of a two-week fine spell. From then on the weather continued to be generally poor with barely five fully fine days du...
Oregon, Mt. Hood—On September 16, Ben Cook and Bill Leitzel were climbing the south side of Mt. Hood at approximately the 10,000 foot elevation, just east of Crater Rock on the lower ridge.The rocks on which Cook was walking started to roll. He fe...
Nevado del Huila, Cordillera Central. This glacier-crowned massif of four peaks has been little known since ascents of two summits in 1939 and 1944 because of relative inaccessibility by road and the threat of bandits. With local advice that these...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. No formal section meetings were held in 1962. As in the past, major activities have been channeled through the Colorado Mountain Club and its various groups. Early in the year a luncheon and slide show with Norman D...
EXHAUSTION, CEREBRAL EDEMA, INEXPERIENCE, SELF-ADMINISTERED DRUGSAlaska, Mount McKinleyBob Wheeler (age unknown) was a member of the North Cascades Alpine School guided expedition to the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. The group, led by guides Al...
Mount Spickard (formerly Glacier Peak 11), North Face. Early in July, Victor Lapatinskas and I paddled across Ross Lake and hiked into the rather “inaccessible” Chilliwacks. We climbed the north face of Mount Spickard via the prominent glacier tha...
Alberta, Banff National Park, Mt. Laurie. On 1 July three Calgary climbers, who were to meet an 18 year old friend, Brian Lwyellan Andreason, of Calgary, at the base of a recognized climbing route toward the west end of the front face of Mt. Lauri...
EQUIPMENT FAILURE THROUGH IMPROPER USE—INADEQUATE ANCHORQuébec, Sageunay National Park, Cap Trinité, Les Grands Gallets (5.9, A2+, 350 m.)A couple began their planned three-day outing to climb Les Grands Gallets at Cap Trinité on Saturday August 4...
Manaslu. The fourth Korean expedition to Manaslu finally successfully climbed the mountain, ascending the northeast face. We started the approach march on March 7 and got to Base Camp (12,400 feet) on March 19. We established Camps I, II, III, IV ...
Mount Morrison, North Buttress Direct. On January 5, Les Wilson, George Bloom, Ray Jewell, and I completed the first winter ascent of the direct north buttress on Mount Morrison. The first day’s climbing, mostly F7, was the most challenging. The h...
Abraham, the Connoisseur’s Variation. In April, Dave Littman and I climbed the south face of Abraham in The Court of the Patriarchs. Dave had started planning during the preceding winter, and luck was on my side because I was his only available pa...
FALL ON ICEAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Bourgeau, Bourgeau Right-HandOn January 4, a party of two was climbing Bourgeau Right-Hand (310 m. IV WI 4R). This climb is often very thin on the first two pitches and difficult to protect. The leade...
Iblar Valley. Another German expedition from Garmisch-Partenkirchen was led by Thomas Trübswetter. From July 4 to 13, they climbed all the significant peaks in the lblar Valley, all twelve over 16,400 feet and two, more than 19,685 feet (6000 mete...
Tilicho, Sherpa Winter Ascent. On January 24 the first all-Sherpa expedition climbed Tilicho. We were only three climbers: Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa, leader; Gyalzen Sherpa and I. This expedition we arranged as an individual test and to change the Sherp...
Alpenbock Climbing Club. The year 1965 was the most active one in the club’s history for both climbing and skiing. On May 21-22, 10 members attempted a ski ascent of the Grand Teton, but were stopped by bad weather within 600 feet of the summit. S...
Notable Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, 1984. Aniela Tukoiszewsa and Ewa Szczesniar from Poland climbed Handoy Norte by its east ridge between July 5 and 8. They ascended from the Pisco-Huandoy Este Glacier, taking the couloir which is between H...
Koh-i-Paghar. The Gamagoori Yama no Kai of Aichi Prefecture expedition was led by Tsukasa Nakase, and was composed of Koichi Ishikawa, Masaru Nagasaka, Jutaro Suzuki, Shigeharu Miwa and Dr. Shinko Kuzaki. They climbed first at the head of the Darr...