Artesonraju, Ski Descent. The ski descent expedition to Artesonraju consisted of Peter Werschkul, Jack Leaven, Doug Greene and me. In 1978 Patrick Vallençant first skied this peak by the same route. I was the first American and second person to do...
Darrah-i-Pinawi Peaks. The Ohtsu Alpine Club of Shiga prefecture sent Yoshitada Kiuchi, leader, Seibun Matsushita, Shunzo Nakanishi, Yoshio Tsujii, Kenji Matsushima and Dr. Michiaki Sato into the Darrah-i-Pinawi, a branch of the Tagabe Munjan. Bas...
El Guardián and Peaks of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Despite bad conditions we climbed the following peaks: Pico Tairona (16,404 feet) on July 20 via south face by John Kay, Dave Snoswell, Chris Spencer, Dick Skaife; El Guardián (17,343 feet...
FALL ON ROCK–LOWERING ERROR, NO HARD HATOregon, Smith Rock State Park, Left Slab Crack.On November 29, Kathy Lee and her friend Becky Hsu (both 27) were meeting some new friends at The Dihedrals at Smith Rock. The friends were late, so Kathy and B...
New Routes on Symmetry Spire. In July 1949 Lee Pedrick and Richard Pownall made the complete ascent of the conspicuous crack which runs directly up the S. wall of Symmetry Spire (10,546 ft.). Previous attempts had been made by Fritz Wiessner, who ...
Abi Gamin. This peak (24,130 feet) was climbed on July 6 by Nandlal Purchit and two Sherpas from Camp II. The expedition was led by Hemant Patel and sponsored by the Gujarat State Council of Sports.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Kangtega Attempt. Akemi Maeda, Hiroyuki Aoki and I left Lukla on April 1 for Base Camp at 4800 meters on the east side of Kangtega, where we arrived on the 4th. Maeda lost consciousness from mountain sickness and so we carried her down to Tangnag....
FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount RainierAt noon on July 21, 1985, Ranger Phillips was notified by Ranger Rick Kirschner that an injured climber was stranded near 2875 meters on Success Cleaver, with a possible fractured left ankle.At 0530 the Brian G...
Cordillera de Olivares, Nevado de Bauchaceta. A group composed of Miguel Beorchia Nigris, Luis Pontoriero, and I arrived at the post of Tocota in the last days of January 2002, thanks to the help of Gendarmeria Nacional (Border Police). From there...
Carrizal, Cordillera Central. A German group led by the Austrian, Hannes Gasser of the Alpinschule Innsbruck, was prevented by the earthquake from going to the Cordillera Blanca in June 1970. Instead, they left the Lima-La Oroya road just north of...
Tilitso Attempt. This group of 34 French, Spaniards and a Belgian was really more like three trekking parties out to try a 7000er. The first group reached Base Camp on October 13 but deep snow prevented their porters from bringing the necessary ba...
Tetons. During the past few years many important new climbs have been made in the Tetons. Since for one reason or another these have not been published, it seems appropriate to give a summary of them here from south to north.
Mount Logan West Peak on Skis. The Tokai University Alpine Club party was composed of Yoshio Ohkubo, Kiyoshi Takabayashi, Junichi Saito and me. On the afternoon of May 16 we flew by jet helicopter across the “green kingdom of wild animals” and lan...
Volcán Reclus (1,425m). On April 13, 2008, Natalia Martinez (Argentina) and I established base camp at the head of Amalia Fjord, on the west side of the Southern Patagonian Icefield. The camp was nine km west of Volcán Reclus, one of five volcanoe...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, INATTENTION, UNROPED, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Asulkan Range, Mount LedaOn April 10, an experienced mountaineer, Greg S. (40), registered with the Warden Service at Rogers Pass for ski mountaineering, an...
Chaukula, first ascent. On August 13 Chris Mothersdale and Trevor Willis made the first ascent of Chaukula (6529m) by the southeast ridge (Alpine AD). Chaukula is the highest of a group of mountains in the Rupshu area of the Ladakh Himalaya. It li...
The Climber’s Guide to North America. Volume I: West Coast Rock Climbs. John Harlin III. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1984. 358 pages, black and white photographs, drawings, route diagrams, maps, bibliography. $22.00.John Harlin has embarked on an am...
Island-in-the-Sky. Dave Madera, Bob Novellino, Jorma Hayes and Bret Sutteer climbed a virgin butte approximately one mile north of the Tombstone, establishing Rest in Peace (5.10) and Shallow Burial (5.10).
Pegish Zom I and Other Peaks. Our expedition, organized by the Bologna section of the Italian Alpine Club consisted of Dr. Achille Poluzzi, Gilberto Bertolani, Giovanni Calza, Benito Modoni, Alziro Molin, Guerrino Sacchin, Nando Stagni, Gian Carlo...
Cerro Torre, Cleaning of Fixed Rope. Discovering that over 1000 meters of fixed rope had been left during the filming of an ascent of Cerro Torre, Austrian Tommy Bonapace and a companion were helicoptered to the summit of the mountain. They spent ...