Mt. Combatant, The Incisor, The Smoke Show. John Furneaux, Paul Bride, and I made base camp on a protected ledge 500 feet above the Tiedemann Glacier on Day Trip Ridge, directly below the unclimbed 2,000' south face of the Incisor. We fixed five p...
FALLING ROCK, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, DARKNESSWyoming, Devils TowerAt 0800 August 19, 1982, three climbers, Bob Larr (32), Roger Raspen (37) and Steve Crawford (18) arrived at the base of the Durrance II route on Devils Tower. They had arrived the...
The Ascent of Istor-o-NalJOSEPH E. MURPHY, JR.The Princeton Mountaineering Club Expedition to Chitral, West Pakistan, and the ascent of Istor-o-Nal resulted from Thomas A. Mutch’s facetious suggestion that he and I make our next trip to the Himala...
LOST CLIMBERS–WEATHER, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWashington, Silver PeakOn September 25, a party of two males attempted to climb Silver Peak on a very wet, foggy day. Part way up the ridge from Lake Annette, they started to get into the open ...
Huntington, West Face Attempt. In April and May, William Kito and I, both recipients of the American Alpine Club Climbing Fellowship grants, flew to the Tokositna Glacier below the west face of Huntington. Our objective was the unclimbed rock butt...
Valle Bader, Note on Naming. There has been some confusion in the past few years regarding the naming of two distinct valleys within the Torres del Paine National Park, both of which have been called Pingo (“wild horse”) Valley. The original valle...
Gunnbjornsfield region first ascents. A Royal Navy expedition comprising Tim Brookes, Guy Buckingham, Belinda Fear, A1 Grieg, Derek Scott, and Barrie Whitehead traveled 160km and climbed 14 peaks in the Watkins Mountains. These included Greenland’...
Saser Kangri Yellow Goddess of the Karakoram. Y. C. Khanna. The Chairman, Central Family Welfare Committee of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police, New Delhi, 1980. 144 pages, black-and-white and color photographs, map. Rupees 100.In these days of solo ...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite ValleyAbout 0810 on July 2, 1986, Steve Snyder, a climber near the scene of the injury, contacted Ranger Sherwood at the Little Yosemite Valley Ranger Station with a report of an injured climber at th...
The Antarctic Today: A Mid-Century Survey by the New Zealand Antarctic Society, edited by Frank A. Simpson. 389 pages, 45 illustrations, diagrams, a folding map and index. Wellington: A. H. and A. W. Reed, in conjunction with the New Zealand Antar...
The northern fringe of the Quimsa Cruz comprises Bolivia’s stash of alpine granite. North of the mining town of Villoco, spires and gendarme-protected ridges occupy the sky between 4,000m and 5,000m. Josh Garrison and I visited this area twice ...
HAPE, ASCENDING TOO FAST, INEXPERIENCE Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 28, 1988, High Altitude Medical Project personnel received a report from another expedition that Masako Yamakoshi (39), a female member of a Japanese climbing team, was ill at the...
Dragontail Peak, Sundown Route. Keith Boyer and I climbed this new route, which begins to the right of the northwest face route (Davis-Beckey, 1962) and is separated from it by a prominent black ridge which leads directly to the summit. The first ...
Grand Teton (13,747). Climbed by twenty-six distinct parties, a total of seventy-six signatures being registered on the summit (seventy-one men and five women). Authorized guide service offered for the first time, Paul K. Petzoldt serving as guide...
Climbing Along the Richardson Highway. Thirty-one members of the Iowa Mountaineers drove in August 1955, to the Castner Glacier area, one of the most accessible in Alaska. The group reached Castner Creek about 45 miles from Big Delta on August 22....
1906. Pinnacle PeakKitty Calhoun“What do you think of the trend of todays’ climbers pushing harder and harder?” The question came at a recent mountain symposium, but it could just as easily have been asked a century ago. If you consider the knowle...
Attempts on the Nevado Rurec and Uruashraju, Cordillera Blanca. At Huaraz, our group, consisting of Jac Lasner, Fred Martin, and Bill Dixon, from California, and John Dixon, from Wisconsin, were joined by two native porters, Macario Angeles and Au...
The EigerwandJohn HarlinJohn Harlin, an American climber from California, now serving with the Air Force in Europe, in August of 1962 made an ascent of what is the most impressive north face route in the Alps, the Eigerwand, the first American to ...
[Download the original PDF, full of photos and diagrams]The annual report Accidents in North America Mountaineering (ANAM) has been the definitive source of information regarding incidents occurring in the climbing and mountaineering community on ...
In 1965, when the Makalu expedition of the Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club was planned for the first time, it had to be canceled because the government of Nepal banned mountaineering in the Himalayas. The people who were then the core of...