Mount St. Elias as a Coastal Peak. Mount St. Elias (5489 meters, 18,008 feet) is much nearer the ocean than before. The Tyndall Glacier has retreated into a newly created fjord and tidewater is only twelve miles from the summit of St. Elias. The g...

FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Freshfield GlacierOn the afternoon of March 29, 1989, four ski tourers were descending the Freshfield Glacier unroped when one of them fell into a crevasse. The others cli...

Tukche. A huge Royal Nepalese Army expedition led by Lieutenant Colonel Bhagrinath Narsingh Rana had 71 members of whom 50 went above Base Camp. They climbed the northwest face, possibly a new route, and placed one camp above Base Camp. On October...

Kohe Hevad, Kunkho-i-Kuchek, Kohe Bakhera, Ishmurgh Valley. Walter Giger, leader, Alfred and Hansruedi Koelz, Arnold Frauenfelder, Roman Boutellier, Jürg Reinhard, Hansjürg Wetter and I traveled to Kabul overland and by truck to Ishmurgh. We estab...

K2, South-Southwest Buttress Attempt. Our objective was the south- southwest buttress of K2, first climbed by Poles in 1986. We were Stane Belak, Dr. Damjan Meško, Milan Romih, Slavko Sveticic, Andrej Štremfelj, Filip Bence, Rado Fabjan, Pavle Koz...

Paine Towers, East Face of the Central Tower. A South African expedition was in the field from November 1973 to January 1974. Paul Fatti, leader, Roger Fuggle, Michael Scott, Merv Prior, Richard Smithers and the American Arthur McGeer climbed the ...

Makalu Post-Monsoon Attempts. None of the post-monsoon attempts on Makalu, all on the normal northwest side, was successful. French climbers Annie Beghin, Dr. Bruno Senechal and Dr. François Estève climbed to 7400 meters on September 20. Four Japa...

FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HAT Washington, Goode Mountain, Northeast ButtressOn September 13, 1991, Robert Nelson (41)—leader, Mitch Miller (18), Tim Hartman (40), and Randall Keys (47) bivouacked at 6,000 feet below the...

FALL ON ROCK, ROPE SEVERED BY CARABINERKentucky, Red River Gorge, Midnight Surf WallIn early September, an experienced climber (age unknown) on Tape Worm (5.12d) took a lead fall from a point between the first and second bolt. His rope ran from hi...

Ragged Peak, East Ridge. In July, 1995, Ian MacRac and I walked up Glacier Creek to the Muldrow Moraine to climb the east ridge of Ragged Peak. Six hundred feet of 40 to 60° ice led up to an easy ridge walk to the summit.Jeff apple Benowitz, unaff...

PULMONARY EDEMA—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Charles Gasser (20) was part of a six-person expedition ascending Mount McKinley via the Muldrow Glacier route. They began their climb from Kantishna on April 22, 1976. At 7 a.m. on May 18, Gasser began showin...

RAPPEL ERROR—FAILED TO THREAD ROTH ROPES THROUGH FRICTION DEVICE, NO RELAYArizona, Cochise StrongholdOn October 28, John Payne, Jr., Mark Plassman, and Bruce McKenzie set off for “What’s My Line,” a three-pitch 5.6 in Cochise Stronghold. The trio ...

Deborah, West Face Direct. A new route on Deborah, first pioneered by Omar Hansen and Chris McClaine, was completed by Barry Wisdom and me in mid May. From our high camp at the base of the face, the summit bid took 22 hours in poor weather. There ...

LOST, CLIMBING ALONE, HYPOTHERMIA, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Columbia Icefield, Mount AthabascaOn Sept. 26, a lone climber took out a safety registration for a climb of Mount Athabasca, with a return time of 1200 the next day indicated...

Tukuche. A Japanese expedition of four climbed Tukuche (6920 meters, 22,703 feet) by the northwest ridge. On October 7, leader Shingoro Tamai, Miss Mariko Arimoto and Danu Sherpa reached the summit.Elizabeth Hawley

Peak 6,400m (Miandi Peak), first ascent; Kharchakund, attempt; Yeonbuk (5,953m), attempt. On October 5 Bruce Norman, from Scotland, and I made what may be a first ascent of a 6,400m peak in the Garwhal region. The ascent was the culmination of a p...

Coast Range, British Columbia. On 22 July 1947, in the Mt. Waddington-Tiedemann district of western British Columbia, Charles Shiverick, of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, lost his life in a snow avalanche on the highest peak of Mt. Serra, at abo...

Sloan Peak, Northwest Buttress. In late September 2000 Mike Preiss and I completed what we suspect is a new route on Sloan Peak. The Northwest Buttress (IV 5.8 A0) starts at the lowest rock on the far left side of the broad west face and ascends t...

SLIP ON SNOW AND ICE, FAULTY (NO) USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mt. St. HelensAbout 3 p.m. on March 8, 1980, Seattle MRC members Paul Helmcke and Joe Kassuba were descending the Dogs Head route on Mt. St. Helens after a successful climb. As they desc...

Yigong Tsangpo, Shashim Valley, reconnaissance. In November Stuart Holmes and I made a further exploratory sortie into the Nyanchen Tanglha East. The original plan, to reconnoiter the valleys south of Niwu, in the heart of the main chain, rapidly ...