Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Nevados de Arhuelles, 1985.

Nevados de Arhuelles, 1985. A belated report comes of climbs made in the Nevados de Arhuelles, eastern sources of the Maipo river. Between February 2 and 9, 1985, nine climbers led by Ramón Medina including four women made the first ascents of Tor...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mendenhall Towers, Juneau Icefields

Mendenhall Towers, Juneau Icefields. Craig McKibben, Brian Cox, my wife Sharon and I left the Mendenhall Loop Road on July 5 and walked 15 miles up to the base of the Mendenhall Towers in 1½ days. On July 7 Brian, Craig and I climbed the southeast...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Mt. Wister

Mt. Wister (11,000). Climbed on June 27th by Ranger Phil Smith. Ascent from southeast, from south fork of Avalanche Canyon (new route). Descent by same route.First traverse on August 16th, by the writer. Ascent from south fork of Avalanche Canyon ...


In Memoriam AAJ
Alfred Adolphe Couttet, Armand Charlet, Georges Tairraz

Tombstone Range. Lured by a note in the Canadian Alpine Journal promising “Bugaboo-style granite,” at least two parties visited the Tombstone Range, thirty miles north of Dawson in the central Yukon, in the summer of 1975. In early June Mark Fagan...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Everest

Everest. Our Catalán expedition consisted of Conrad Blanch, leader, Joan Massons, Dr. Antoni Ricart, Nil Bohigas, Oscar Cadiach, Enric Lucas, Charles Valles, Jordi Camprubí, Jordi Canals, Jordi Magrinyá, Miquel Sánchez, Lluiís Gómez, Xavier Pérez ...


Club Activities AAJ
M.I.T. Outing Club

M.l.T. Outing Club. Located as we are in the East, it is essentially impossible for the dub to conduct any expeditions of note. However, we do a large amount of small scale mountaineering and considerable rock climbing, and each year one or two cl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Santa Cruz Attempt and Huandoy Norte Tragedy

Santa Cruz Attempt and. Huandoy Norte Tragedy. Bill Hooker and I organized and led an eleven-man expedition in June to atempt new routes on Santa Cruz and Huandoy Norte. After establishing Base Camp at 14,700 feet in the Quebrada Raucolta, we bega...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington—Olympia Range

Washington—Olympia Range: On July 26, 1952 Paul L. Schweitering (18) fell down the side of Timber Mountain in the Olympia Range when a boulder to which he was clinging gave away. He was working on a survey crew at the time. Schweitering suffered s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Huayna Potosí, North-South Traverse

Huayna Potosí North-South Traverse. British climbers Simon Abrahams, Jim Hall and Tony Matthews made a traverse of Huayna Potosí, starting on June 24 on the north ridge, moving across the west face to the northwest ridge and on to the lower north ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Yanahuanca, Cordillera Blanca

Yanahuanca, Cordillera Blanca. The Brazilian Domingos Giobbi of the São Paulo Alpine Club made the first ascent of Yanahuanca (17,340 feet) on July 14 with the Peruvian Eugenio Angeles. On the next day they climbed Caullaraju North (17,764 feet), ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, northeast Face and Southwest Ridge Attempts

Ama Dablam, Northeast Face and Southwest Ridge Attempts. Our team was made up of Swiss Marie Hiroz, French Laurence Gouault and Americans Steve Shea and me. We arrived at the rarely visited Base Camp northeast of Ama Dablam in mid-April after an a...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection California, Yosemite National Park, El Capitan, The Nose

On June 26, Holly (32) and her partner Jeff were climbing the first pitch of The Nose when she took a 40-foot leader fall. She fractured her elbow and had abrasions. She was carried to the road and flown to the hospital. (Source: John Dill, NPS ...

| Published N/A


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Chatyn-tau, North Face, First Winter Ascent Russia, Central Caucasus

Probably the most notable achievement in the Caucasus was the first winter ascent of the main north face of Chatyn-tau (4,368m), via the feature known as the Rhombus. Chatyn-tau stands just north of the famous double-summited Ushba.The first recor...

| Published N/A


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Winds of Change, Second Ascent

El Capitan, Winds of Change, Second Ascent. Grega Lajen and Iztok Mihev made a convoluted second ascent of Winds of Change (VI 5.10 A5) in six days in September. They spent three days fixing ropes on the first six pitches; after three days of rest...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Yosemite Valley

California, Yosemite Valley. On May 29th Richard Jack (age 28) and Peter Williamson (29) completed an ascent of the Grade V route on the Leaning Tower. On their descent they camped for the night at Bridalveil Creek. In the morning they prepared to...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error — Failed to Clip into Anchor California, Joshua Tree National Park, Saddle Rock

On August 16, a man (36) was critically injured when he lost control of his rappel and fell more than 100 feet. He was canyoneering, according to one report, and it took one set of rescuers seven hours to reach him, including seven rappels ...

| Published 2011


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Karchakund

Karchakund. Our expedition consisted of Daniele Turrini, Amaldo Colombo, Luigi Gallo, Anna Rosa Guzzetti, Luigi Mascherini and me as leader. We got to Base Camp at Tapovan at 4350 meters on August 2. On August 6, we set up Advance Base at Sundanba...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile and Argentina, Patagonia, Cerro Moyano

Cerro Moyano. After six unsuccessful attempts on Cerro Moyano, our expedition reached the summit (9350 feet) on February 2, 1976. This was the last unclimbed major peak in the range between Lakes Viedma and Argentino; it is only slightly less diff...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, Baring, North Face

Baring, North Face. This frequently attempted 2000-foot overhanging face saw yet another attempt this summer, by Fred Beckey, Don Claunch, and Ed Cooper. The previous high point was reached early on the second day. It has now been ascertained that...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Oregon—Cascade Mountains, Stein's Pillar

Stein’s Pillar. The third ascent of Stein’s Pillar, a spectacular, 400-foot, overhanging tower in eastern Oregon, was made in one day during the summer of 1965 by five Seattle climbers, Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad, Pat Callis, Dan Davis and Dick S...