Aguja Saint Exupéry, South Face, “Le Petit Prince.” Gaël Bouquet- Deschaux, Emmanuel Pellissier, Benoît Robert, Jérôme Arpin and I made a mostly aid route on the unclimbed south face of the Aguja Saint Exupéry. We could climb on only eleven days i...
HENRY AUGUSTUS BUCHTEL, III 1906-1988Dr. Henry Augustus Buchtel, a long-time member of the American Alpine Club and the Colorado Mountain Club, passed away on April 18 at his home in Green Valley, Arizona after a long illness. He is survived by hi...
Coast Mountains, Traverse of the Taku-Whiting Divide. Jan Palaty, Steve Sheffield, Dave Williams and I spent four weeks traversing the Taku-Whiting Divide on skis in April and May. From Juneau we took a floatplane to the confluence of the Taku and...
The Karakoram—Mountains of Pakistan. Shiro Shirahata. Cloudcap, Seattle, 1990. 192 pages, 101 color photographs of which 56 measure 14×20-inches and 45 measure 10×l4-inches. $75.00.Shiro Shirahata, whose superb Nepal Himalaya appeared in 1983, is ...
CLIMBING UNROPED AND UNPROTECTED—Washington, Mt. St. Helens, Ape Canyon. Sp. 4 Peter Mosier (26) was with a U.S. Army training group when he fell 200 feet to his death down a shear rock wall. He was free climbing on a cockscomb like ridge of loose...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, BAD ADVICEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Long’s PeakOn September 17, at 1140, two unidentified females (approximate ages 25) became stranded on the North Face of Longs Peak on the crack system adjacent to t...
Diklos-mta, Addala and Addala East, Dagestan, Caucasus. This British- Ukrainian expedition climbed in the Snegovoy and Bogosski ranges in the remote western part of Dagestan in the Eastern Caucasus from August 11 to September 8. We made three firs...
Nun, 1993, Mysterious Disappearance. On August 22, 1993, after establishing Camp II on Nun, we returned to Base Camp. On the way we met three Germans, who revealed that they would attempt D41 (Barmal Peak; 5813 meters, 19,039 feet). Two days later...
Verónica, Attempt on the Unclimbed Northeast Buttress, Cordillera Ur- umbamba. Stuart Thompson, Roger Gott, John James, Mark Lewis, John Burrow and I were in the area from July 19 to August 25. We attempted two routes on the northeast buttress fro...
Gasherbrum I, Ascent. Spaniards Txetxu Lete Bernardo, Koke Lasa Berasategui and Luis Miguel Lopez Soriano climbed the Japanese Couloir on the north face, summitting on July 16, 1995.
Torre Norte del Paine, South Spur, and Torre Sur, North Spur, Winter Ascents. Luca Leonardi and I left Italy on June 10 hoping to climb one of the Paine towers in winter. There had never been even a winter attempt before in the Paine group. On Jun...
Volcan Lautaro, Attempt. On November 27, the Swiss Jurg Anderegg made an almost complete ascent of Volcan Lautaro, taking four days from Piedra del Fraile to the summit. He saw no volcanic activity, and found one section of the route dangerous due...
Thalay Sagar Attempts and Tragedy. A 3-man Japanese expedition led by Kenji Takagi failed to climb Thalay Sagar by its north face. After they had reached 6400 meters in late September, the leader fell to his death from the high point while rappell...
Kasum Kanguru, East Face. In April, Yasushi Yamanoi of Japan soloed a new route on the east face of Kasum Kaguru (6370m). He started from Base Camp at 4 a.m. on April 21 and reached the summit 22 hours later. The first 600 meters of the route was ...
Mount Steele, East Ridge. The Kajika party, Kunio Asaoka, Takashi Nakamura, Koichi Takeuchi, Miss Tokiko Michioka, Shigo Ito and I established Base Camp below the east ridge on April 19. Camp I was established at 10,300 feet on the 21st. Above 11,...
Ama Dablam, Southwest Ridge, Pre-Monsoon. The southwest ridge of Ama Dablam continues to be the objective of numerous expeditions. In the premonsoon season only one group made the climb successfully to the summit. On April 4, Michael Murphy of the...
Torre Egger and Innominata. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Daniel Reid, Rick Sylvester, Americans, Rafael Juárez, Argentine, Eric Jones, Tut Braithwaite, Martin Boysen, Mick Coffey, Keith Lewis, Don Whillans and me, British. For more than two mon...
Uli Biaho Tower, East Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Carlo Grossrubatscher, Adam Holzknecht, Dieter Demetz, Walter Pancheri and me as leader. We hoped to climb the still unascended east face of the Uli Biaho Tower (6083 meters, 19,95...
Kishtwar Himal. An expedition comprising Simon and Elizabeth Brown, Pete Butler, Nicki and Jane Clough, Rob and Netti Collister and, for a short time, a liaison officer, was in the Padar region, based on Athole (Arthal), during September and Octob...
Colorado, Maroon Bells—On August 5, 1956 Ralph Melville with two companions, a boy and a girl, reached the summit of Maroon Bells. As they descended Melville tried to glissade a steep snow slope. He lost his footing and catapulted down a gully. He...