Nanga Parbat, attempted first winter ascent. A strong, primarily Polish expedition failed to make the first winter ascent of any 8,000m peak in Pakistan, when fierce winds forced it to abandon an attempt on Nanga Parbat (8,125m) in January 2007. L...
Mount Fairweather. On June 20, John Imbrie, George West and I were landed in Gilbert Inlet of Lituya Bay. We had originally planned to approach Mount Fairweather from Cape Fairweather, but the pilot on duty at Channel Flying in Juneau that morning...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING, WEATHER California, Yosemite National Park, Stately Pleasure DomeOn June 24, 1992, Anne Tuite (21) and Sean Costello (29) became stranded on Stately Pleasure Dome due to a rain and hail storm.After a di...
P 5866 (Thunmo), Baltoro Cathedral, solo. In June, with a trekking permit and seven porters, I set up “Base Camp” on the Dunge Glacier. I made solo a VII, 5. 10d, A4+ climb of 54 pitches on the Baltoro Cathedral in 13 days. I spent two days fixing...
Brammah II, Kishtwar Himal. The Sapporo Alpine Club Expedition was led by Kosaku Keiryo. They set up Base Camp on August 21 on the Brammah Glacier, west of the peak up the North Nullah. On September 15 Hideo Yokoyama and Shizuo Noku reached the su...
Japanese Expedition to the Cordillera Vilcanota. We organized our mountain climbing and scientific Japan Peru Andes Expedition with six Japanese members: Dr. Yoshifumi Takeda, leader, Itaru Nishimura, subleader, Masahiro Ohe, Kenzo Agata, Keio Tak...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park (4)—On August 15, 1956 George Bloom (21) and a companion, John Carpenter, had climbed Mt. Craig and in descending had separated, each going down opposite sides of a steep rock ridge. Carpenter never saw Bloom...
Piramidalny. In the summer of 1991, five climbers from the United Kingdom visited the Ak-Su massif. After a delay caused by a mud slide on a road, we were finally helicoptered to the Asan Base Camp on August 2 from the Ak-Su International Base Cam...
Asp-e-Safed III, North Face. Our French expedition made the first ascent of the north face of Asp-e-Safed III (c. 20,670 feet) in July and August. After establishing Base Camp at 15,000 feet and Camp I at 16,900 feet, we fixed rope up to 19,350 fe...
Ama Dablam, crowds on normal route. In the view of many, there were too many people on Ama Dablam (6,812m) last autumn. Some Ama Dablam teams were very small with just a member or two and perhaps one Sherpa. And not all of the 29 expeditions were ...
Latok I Attempt. Julie Brugger, Andy DeKlerk, Colin Grissom and I attempted the north ridge of Latok I. We were about a third of the way up the route at the beginning of August when the weather turned bad. It stormed for 19 of the next 21 days, le...
Mount Epperly, First Ascent. Erhard Loretan reportedly made the first ascent of this peak in the Ellsworth Mountains. (High Mountain Sports 150.)
The Monument, Cashmere Crags. A new route on this accurately namedmonolith was made by Dan Davis and me via a solitary crack system onthe east flank. About ten pitons were used for aid, and the final blockwas scaled as on the original ascent—with ...
FALL ON ROCK – LASS OF CONTROL ON BELAY, INEXPERIENCE, HASTE Wyoming, Grand Teton national Park, Death CanyonThe climbing party of M. Ybarra, L. McLean, and Dana Reis left the Whitegrass Trailhead at 0900 on the morning of August 20 to climb the S...
The Book of Austria, by Ernst Marboe. Translated by G. E. R. Gedye. 544 pages, profusely illustrated (many color plates). Vienna: Oesterreichische Staatsdruckerei, 1948.Said to be the best book on Austria made since the War, this is a pictorial de...
Whitehorse, East Ridge. This ascent was made on June 2 by Ben Guydelkon and me. Take an old logging road that starts on the west side of Squire Creek until it can no longer be travelled by car (c. 4 miles). Continue up the road to the logged-off a...
HOWARD E. STANSBURY, JR.1913-1989Howard E. Stansbury, an American Alpine Club member since 1965, died on May 11, 1989 while on a cruise in the Caribbean. He was born in Ronan, Montana, and lived most of his life in Seattle and on Mercer Island. Su...
Hanagita Peak, Possible First Ascent. On September 1, Gary Green of McCarthy Air flew me into the Bremner mine airstrip some 30 miles southwest of McCarthy. That day and the next I hiked west over two passes to reach a camp at around 4,000 feet ju...
Ampato Este. On July 17 the summit of the east peak of Ampato (c. 20,000 feet) was reached by Mila Fernández de Abarasturi, Arancha Uriarte, José Luis Gabironda, the Peruvian Glicerio Henostroza and me.Felipe Uriarte, Federacíon Vasconavarra de Mo...
Mount Dennis, Northwest Face, and Other Ice Climbs. At the end of March, Peter Monkkonen and I set up camp under Weeping Wall and from there did four day-climbs on ice. These climbs were in the finest Scottish tradition, with midday starts and mid...