Club Activities AAJ
AAC, Cascade Section

A.A.C., Cascade Section. The largest outdoor assembly of section members in 1960 occurred on the slopes of Mount McKinley. In May nearly two dozen members passed through the rescue Base Camp that was established to facilitate the evacuation of mem...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falls on Rock, etc., Wisconsin, Devil's Lake State Park

FALLS ON ROCK, ETC.Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkThree reports of climbing accidents—and several of hikers/ walkers who got into climbing situations—were sent in for 1990. One fatality occurred when a 62 year old college professor fell about 3...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Overview

Overview. This year 91 applications were received by the Pakistan authorities for permits to climb various peaks. Of these, 78 applicants were granted permission to climb their peaks of choice, including 10 applicants who were granted permission t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Regal, Northeast Ridge

Mount Regal, Northeast Ridge. A 10-man Japanese expedition led by Yoshihito Nakai flew to the Nabesna Glacier and made the second ascent of Mount Regal (13,845 feet) on August 7, 1975 by a new route, the northeast ridge. All members reached the top.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Kedarnath, Nilkantha, Shivling

Kedarnath, Nilkantha, Shivling. These three very difficult peaks were climbed by teams from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. Commander Y.C. Khanna, B.T. Lama, Mingur, Lhakpa and Pritiman climbed Kedarnath (22,770 feet) on May 19. The climb was repe...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Rock Foothold Broke Off, Protection Pulled Out, No Hard Hat, California, Joshua Tree National Monument

FALL ON ROCK—ROCK FOOTHOLD BROKE OFF, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn June 7, 1992, William Oliver (30) was leading Beck's Bet (5.5). He was about 25 feet up the route, just past his second piece of p...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Trango Towers Correction

Trango Towers Correction. On page 250 of AAJ, 1989, it incorrectly gives the belief that the main summit of the Trango Château or the First Tower was still unclimbed. This summit had already been reached by Japanese in 1987, as reported in AAJ, 19...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Tos Valley, Kulu

Tos Valley, Kulu. The North of England Expedition went from the Hindu Kush on to Kulu. In this part of the expedition were Michael Hosted, Miss Terry Funk (Swiss), John Darling, Ernest Shield, the local Sherpa Rinzing, my wife Dawn and I. We set o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Attempt on Jerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash

Attempt on Jerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our principal objectives were to climb the northern (21,759 feet) and the lower southern summits, but we were particularly anxious to ascend the latter. Our group, Agustín Velásquez, leader, Jorge Peredo,...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park (3)

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park (3)—A tragic death occurred on August 15, 1956 when Mr. and Mrs. Hoffman and Mr. and Mrs. Hardwick had hiked up the Longs Peak trail to Chasm Lake and were on their way back when overtaken by a severe lightni...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Former USSR, Granitic Peaks of Kirgizia

Granitic Peaks of Kirgizia. An informative article describing this comparatively unknown region, many ascents there and climbing opportunities appears earlier in this Journal.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Noshaq

Noshaq. On August 22 five Spaniards climbed the west peak of Noshaq (23,786 feet), including Monserrat Jou, who thus reached a summit higher than any other Spanish woman. Javier Pérez Gil and José Maria Montfort bivouacked and the next day climbed...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Region, Mahalangur Himal, Losar Waterfall, One-day Ascent

Losar waterfall, one-day ascent. In February Conrad Anker and I did what may be the first one-day ascent of the famous “Losar” waterfall across from Namche Bazar in the Khumbu. We bivouacked at the bottom of the valley and climbed the 2,400-foot w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, UIAA International Moutaineering Camp, Hushe Valley

UIAA International Mountaineering Camp, Hushe Valley. On August 31, all 25 members of the Second UIAA International Mountaineering Camp from 13 different countries arrived at Rawalpindi. The staff was Dr. Ruth Howlett, expedition doctor from UK, S...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Mount Paget, Fourth Ascent

Mount Paget, Fourth Ascent. It was reported that American Skip Novak, Britain Mark Strafford, Germans Gerhard Schmatz, Martin Anwander and Hans Engl, and Austrian Robert Schabetsberg ascended the unclimbed Northeast Face of Mount Paget (2934 meter...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Dragontail Peak, Stuart Range

Dragontail Peak, Stuart Range. Two new routes were made on Dragon- tail Peak, the highest mountain of the Stuart Range in the area of Colchuck Lake, early this summer by Dan Davis and me. We climbed the north face, with its “Piz Badile”-like slabs...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Loss of Control on Belay, Inexperience, Haste, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Death Canyon

FALL ON SNOW – LOSS OF CONTROL ON GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Nez PerceOn August 11 between 1100 and 1600, Grand Teton National Park rangers and Teton Interagency Heli-tack personnel performed a 1,200- foot technical ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Austria

Austria. Grieben’s Guide Book 234, with English text. Vienna and Heidelberg: Verlag Carl Ueberreuter, 1951.This guidebook to Austria, than which it is scarcely possible to imagine a better, supersedes the older Baedeker. Climbers will be impressed...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington - Cascade Mountains, Silver Tip, West Ridge

Silver Tip, West Ridge. Follow the Weden Creek road past the mine to where it begins to drop. About 30 feet lower and to the left is a miners’ trail. This well-marked trail leads directly to the base of the ridge (and a red tower). From here the r...


In Memoriam AAJ
Donald Mason Woods, 1903-1989

DONALD MASON WOODS1903-1989Teacher, climber, outdoorsman, photographer, world traveler, singer, actor, dancer, Donald Mason Woods died as a result of a freak accident on September 6, 1989. While alighting from his family pick-up truck in his own d...