Trango Pulpit, More Czech, Less Slovak. In July, the Czech/Slovak expedition consisting of Ivo Wondrácek, Tomáš Rinn, Pavel Weisser and Michal Drašar (all Czech) left Prague June 18. Jaroslav Dutka from Slovakia had problems with his transit visas...
Colorado Mountain Club. “All aboard for the Great South Circle Trip! Great North Circle Trip and Hall’s Spires leave tomorrow at 7:29 A.M. promptly! Mt. Bonneville on Thursday, rain or shine.” No, not the announcer at Grand Central. This comes fro...
Tirich Mir, Attempt from North. The Fukuoka Mountaineering Association Expedition to Tirich Mir was composed of Daisuke Suematsu, leader, Isao Shinkai, Yasushi Matsumoto, Seiji Tsuruta, Shozo Sano, Tsuguo Tsuruhisa, Yasuzo Fukada, Tokachi Uemura, ...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, INADEQUATEEQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Pipeline GullyOn March 9, Robert Douglas (39), John Corse (38), and Colin O’Farrell (23) became involved in a situation requiring climbing ...
ORRIN HANNING BONNEY 1903-1979The American Alpine Club and the mountaineering fraternity of the American Rockies lost a staunch supporter when Orrin H. Bonney succumbed to a heart attack on June 28, 1979 as he was preparing for his annual trip fro...
The North Ridge of Mt. KennedyIn 1968, four young men pitted themselves against one of North America’s greatest challenges. Nearly 30 years later, they tell their story.by Todd S. ThompsonDavid Seidman and I walked into Brad Washburn’s light-fille...
K2: Mountain of Mountains. Reinhold Messner and Alessandro Gogna. Kaye & Ward, London and Oxford University Press, New York, 1981. 177 pages, 31 black and white photographs, 109 color photographs, 6 sketches, 4 maps. $35.00This is principally ...
Mermoz, Padre Viento; Guillaumet, The Gambler; St. Exupery, east pillar variation. Jared Ogden and I arrived in the Fitz Roy region on December 1 and found several unclimbed ice lines in condition. On the east face of the Mermoz we did the first a...
Mt. Goode by Catamaran, Cascades. One of the important unclimbed faces among the large peaks in the Northern Cascades was the east face of Mt. Goode, rising in a long rock and ice precipice from the North Fork of Bridge Creek. To reach it one must...
Kingnait Fiord, Baffin Island. During July and August, I led a return expedition to the previously unexplored valley running northwest from the head of Kingnait Fiord. Here in 1972 we had discovered spectacular alpine peaks and miles of walls in a...
Maine: (2) Appalachian Mountains, Mt. Katahdin. On 28 July 1951 Marcia Doolittle, about 22 years old, of Schenectady, New York, fell forty feet from a point near the top of the Chimney. Miss Doolittle and her companion, David Chipman of Boston, Ma...
Cordon de los Pioneros, various ascents. In December our group climbed previously virgin summits in this range, south of Pico Bicentenario. None currently has a name, and all were technically easy. Italians claimed to have climbed a summit here, b...
DOUGLAS BYRON HALL1969-1997On January 25, the earth lost a most remarkable individual and a great creative spirit. Doug Hall was killed in a dramatic avalanche while climbing the notorious Fang route in Provo Canyon, Utah. He left behind a legacy ...
Vinson Massif, west face, Purple Haze Couloir. It was January 15, 2005 and we had been stuck in Vinson base camp for several days, waiting for clear weather so we could fly to Patriot Hills and then home. The weather was cloudy enough to prevent a...
The Totem Pole—And a Whole New Adventure. Paul Pritchard. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 1999. 16-page photo insert. 216 pages. $22.95.'The Totem Pole, Paul Pritchard’s first work since winning the Boardman Tasker award in 1997 for Deep Play, is a f...
End of the Omega Foundation and new Vinson map. This expedition [above report] ends the GPS surveying work of the Omega Foundation in Antarctica. Since 2001, the Foundation has generously supported seven GPS expeditions to Antarctica—six of them t...
JAMES WADDELL ALEXANDER 3d 1888–1971James Alexander was born at Sea Bright, N.J., September 19, 1888, and died in Princeton, N.J., on September 23, 1971. In early life he described himself as socialist and atheist, and, to be in character, intermi...
Shafat Valley, first ascent of Kova Peak and Gulmatonga Tower. The Curbatts (the Crows) are a close-knit group of alpinists from Menaggio on Lake Como, Italy. In 2002 they planned to attempt a big granite wall on an unclimbed 5,500m peak in a side...
BELMORE BROWNE1880-1954Artist, explorer, mountaineer, and great exponent of northern outdoor living and wilderness travel, Belmore Browne, a member since 1913 and later honorary member of the Club, died May 2, 1954, after a short illness, while st...
Annapurna, South Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Slovenes Viktor Grošelj, Dr. Igor Tekavcic, Filip Bence, Vanja Furlan, Matjaž Jamnik, MihaKajzelj, Benjamin Ravnik, Slavko Rožic, Uros Rupar, Robert Supin, Iztok Tomazin, Janez Hrovat a...