Book Reviews AAJ
Living Country Customs in Salzburg

Living Country Customs in Salzburg, by Prunella C. Pott-Flatz. 64 pages, with illustrations from the author’s pen drawings. Salzburg: Karl Gordon, 1950. Price, $1.00.This little book, written in English, is sponsored by the Folklore Department, Go...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Japan, Sakube Iwa, Honshu

Sakube lwa, Honshu. Honshu, the southwestern island of Japan, offers little climbing of an original nature unless one can locate some of the small forgotten pinnacles projecting from timber covered slopes. Sakube Iwa is such a pinnacle in Ryu Mon ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Akuliaruseq Peninsula

Akuliaruseq Peninsula, West Greenland. The expedition of the Cuneo section of the Club Alpino Italiano was composed of Antonio Perino, leader, Toni Caranta, Sergio Ambrosiani, Enrico Acchiardo, Piero Ballario, Bruno Dematteis, Carlo Garelli, Giuli...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado—Waterwheel Falls, Idaho Springs

Colorado—Waterwheel Falls, Idaho Springs: On July 5, 1952, Edward Parry, Jr. slipped when half way up a 100 foot cliff and fell head first onto rocks below. He died shortly thereafter as a result of his fall. No other data available from newspaper...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, East Greenland

Schweizerland, East Greenland. Our Catalan expedition was composed of Nuria Pares, Pep Bisquert, Miquel Autet, Angel Serra, Montse Riesco and me as leader. We left Kulusuk on August 3, ascended the Karale Glacier to the September 16th Glacier and ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Placed no Protection, California, Mount Shasta

FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Mount ShastaIn July, a party of four climbers attempted the Hotlum Glacier route on Mount Shasta. Parts of this route are covered in hard ice on which self-arrest is difficult. The climbers traveled in ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.),Kyrgyzstan, Laylak Region, Admiralteets, Bashkirov Route

Admiralteets, Bashkirov Route. From July 27-30, M. Mikhaylov (leader), V. Akimov, A. Molotov, A. Puchinin and A. Chernov, all from the Kazak Army Sports Club (Almaty, Kazakhstan), climbed the pillar of Admiralteets peak (5090m) via the 1985 V. Bas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Tsaranoro Be, east face, Short Cut; Tsaranoro Kely, Bravo les Filles, second and third free ascents Africa, Madagascar

Our four-person team arrived on September 18 in the Madagascar capital of Antanariva. From there we traveled to the Andringitra National Park 800km to the south. Situated here is the famous granite massif of Tsaranoro, and we spent almost a month ...

| Published N/A | Author Ondra Benes


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section

A.A.C. Rocky Mountain Section. We met twice during 1957: once to hear Jürg Marmet, the Swiss Everest-climber, and to see his beautiful slides of the Swiss Everest-Lhotse Expedition; and once, in conjunction with the Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, to...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Nanda Devi East Attempt

Nanda Devi East Attempt. After a lapse of seven years, our joint Indo-Polish expedition was the first to climb on the Nanda Devi massif since the Nanda Devi Sanctuary was declared a Bio-Sphere Reserve and closed for all expeditions. We were permit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, East Face of La Pérouse, Fairweather Range

East Face of La Pérouse, Fairweather Range. This 7000-foot high face is of mixed snow, ice and rock. Parts of it were very difficult, up to difficult class 6. The ice lies at angles from 50° to 65° and the face is swept by rock fall and avalanches...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Kashmir and Jammu, Kun and Nun

Kun and Nun. An Italian expedition reached the summit of Kun (7087 meters, 23,252 feet) on August 16. Base Camp and Camps I, II and III were at 4000, 5500, 6100 and 6350 meters. The summit climbers were Santino Cale- gari, Battista Scanabessi, Mar...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, Nangma Valley, Changi Tower (5,800m), South Face, Anké Asashe

Changi Tower (5,800m), south face, Anké Asashe. The expedition was completed by Nestor Ayerbe, Oscar Perez, and myself, all from Huesca, northern Spain. Our mountain club, Peña Guara, supported the expedition. On July 21 we arrived at the 4,200m b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Thui II Attempt

Thui II Attempt. From Gilgit we drove in four jeeps to Yasin in the Thui valley. We hired 21 donkeys and subsequently 25 porters to reach Base Camp at 14,500 feet. Camp I on Thui II (21,401 feet) was established at 17,000 feet on a shelf overlooki...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna North Face Attempts

Annapurna North Face Attempts. There were two unsuccessful attempts to climb Annapurna by the usual north-face route. Nine Spanish Catalans led by Oleguer Suñe reached a high point at 6200 meters on October 4. A second expedition of Catalans, also...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, North West Territories-Logan Mountains, Lotus Flower Tower

Lotus Flower Tower. Frenchmen Guy Abert and Jacques Fouques from August 25 to 27, 1975 made the fourth ascent of the southeast face of Lotus Flower Tower. They climbed mostly free, using aid on only a few pitches.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Ascents in the Mount Forel Area

Ascents in the Mount Forel Area. Paul Walker and Tangent Expeditions made several climbs in the Mount Forel area. Walker flew his expedition in and out with a ski-mounted Twin Otter.On the flight to retrieve the Walker expedition, Douglas Cooper's...


In Memoriam AAJ
George Irving Bell, 1926-2000

GEORGE IRVING BELL1926–2000When George Bell, who made significant first ascents in the Andes and the Karakoram, died on May 28, in Los Alamos, New Mexico, from leukemia complications following routine surgery, it was a quiet end to a remarkable li...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Castle Dome, Silmarillion

Castle Dome, Silmarillion. In October Mark Menge and I put up a new route on the south face of this dome. The route takes a hard line in the main dihedral of the face. NCCS IV, F11.Jack Roberts, Buff Alpine Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Haystack, Direct West Face

Haystack, Direct West Face. The smooth exfoliated west face of Haystack, as seen across Big Sandy Lake, is a landmark to climbers hiking in to the Cirque of the Towers area. It becomes increasingly steeper and harder as you move from the more slop...