Tirich Mir, Southeast Ridge of East Peak Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Marian Bala, Wieslaw Burzynski, Dr. Jerzy Friediger, Marek Kalmus, Jacek Poreba, Wieslaw Stefanski and me as leader. Our objective had been the Hispar Mustagh of the K...
Shipton Spire, Ship of Fools. Mark Synnott and Jared Ogden established a new route on the east face of Shipton Spire (5852m) called Ship of Fools (VII 5.11 A2+ WI6), spending 20 nights on the wall and summitting on August 6. A full account of Synn...
Mount Waddington Area, New Routes. Between July 20 and August 2, six of us from Seattle camped at the Combatant-Waddington col, climbing four new routes. On our first day, Dan Cauthorn and Steve Mascioli climbed the central buttress of Combatant (...
Kerckhoff Dome. Near Shaver Lake, a year-round road passes within a mile of little-known Kerckhoff Dome. Huge penstocks bring energy to the Big Creek power station and the tramway used in their construction provides a quick and brush-free access. ...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section met four times in 1961. On January 20, the following new officers were elected: Lewis Clark, chairman; Jules Eichorn, vice-chairman; William Hooker, secretary-treasurer. Following the busine...
Our special thanks to Vladimir Kopylov (http://mountains.tos.ru) of the Russian Mountaineering Federation for his invaluable help on this section.Kiukiurtliu, Northwest Face, Lukashvilly Route. From August 21-27, a team of the Moscow Mountaineerin...
Attempt on Chopicalqui. Janine Carrette and I were joined in Huaraz by the Peruvian Alcides Ames for an attempt on Chopicalqui. We climbed to Base Camp at the end of the moraine at the foot of the Chopicalqui Glacier on August 5. On the 9th from C...
P 5697. In July, Jostein Maardalen and I nearly completed the first ascent of P 5697 (18,691 feet) via the south ridge. The peak lies a kilometer south of Shaqsha. The climb was of nine rope-lengths on 45° to 60° snow and ice. The last 20 meters o...
TABLE I Reported Mountaineering AccidentsYearNumber of Accidents Reported USA–CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved USA–CAN.InjuredUSA–CAN.KilledUSA–CAN195114–21–10–3–195229–32–17–13–195324–27–14–12–195431–41–31–8–195534–39–29–13–195646–71–51–18–19...
Shisha Pangma Reconnaissance. At the end of May Manfred Abelein, Fritz Zintl and I were in China and Tibet to prepare our joint expedition. We had to travel by jeep over 500 miles from Lhasa to the Shisha Pangma Base Camp to make plans.Günter Stur...
Hachindar Chhish, East Face. The march-in with 110 porters to the foot of Hachindar Chhish from Aliabad in Hunza took us four days. On May 30 we established Base Camp on the Muchichul Glacier at 12,000 feet. We used no high-altitude porters. Our r...
El Gigante, Blade, Scars, and Stars. In November 2000 I returned to Mexico with Jakub Gajda and Gareth Llewellin to attempt El Gigante. The month-long journey was wrought with near-death encounters and bucketsful of snakes. But we succeeded in est...
The Lieutenants, East Face, Purcells. The striking, well-photographed background peak at the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers is simply known as the Lieutenants. On August 6 John Rupley and I climbed its east face from the lower part of the valley gla...
New Hampshire, Cannon Mt. On 28 April David Koop (20) and Charles Ericsson (20) were climbing Sam’s Swan Song on Cannon Cliff. They had reached the last significant pitch and were slightly off to the left of the usual route. Koop was 40 feet above...
RAPPEL ERROR—FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Owens River Gorge, China WallOn February 4, Ian Seevers Mack (23) died after falling 115 feet while climbing China Wall.Apparently Mack was preparing to rappel when he fell. Mack was anchored and as his partner...
Everest Attempt and Tragedy. Peter Hillary led an expedition of two New Zealanders and four Australians on an attempt on the west ridge of Everest from the Western Cwm. They had three fixed camps above Base Camp plus a bivouac at 7900 meters. Five...
El Gigante, Los Sueños del Gigante. This 22-pitch route (5.11d/A0 or 5.12d) was established in mixed style, by Alex and Nathalie Catlin and Matt Greco, in December 2003. The route was cleaned on rappel over three weeks (and could use more). Many p...
Himalchuli Winter Attempt and Tragedy. A Polish expedition led by Józef Stepien hoped to climb the main peak of Himalchuli by its southwest ridge. Although there were seven members, only two were really high climbers. Deputy leader Wieslaw Panejko...
P 19,080 and P 18,560, Arwa Valley. The nine-man team from the Mountaineers’ Club of Calcutta led by Baidyanath Rakshit climbed two unnamed peaks north of the Arwa valley. T.S. Subramanian, Barun Ghosh, Provat Kumar Ganguly, two Sherpas Lakpa Tser...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. During the year many club members climbed on non-club sponsored trips in the Chugach, Talkeetna, Wrangell, Alaska, and Kenai Ranges. Three members climbed Mount Drum (12,010 feet), and second ascents were made of Mou...