Mount Hunter, North Face Attempt. An attempt was made on the north face of Mount Hunter by Charles Fuselier, Laura Johnson, Joan Nester, Guy Waterman and me in May. An unusually heavy snow fall occurred during the winter of 1970-71 which may have ...
When we first saw Saser Kangri, in 2001, we didn’t even know its name. My partner Mark Wilford and I snapped a few photographs of four massive mountains to the north as we shivered that early dawn in our high bivouac on Yamandaka (AAJ 2002). Lat...
The Tragedies on the Grand TetonOn the afternoon of July 7th, 1934, Chris Duehlmeier called at Jenny Lake Ranger Station to express anxiety concerning the safety of two friends, Fred Ohlendorf and Helmuth Leese, who had not returned from a mountai...
Unnamed Peaks, Western Truce Group. Lured by unclimbed peaks in the western Truce Group, Gretchen Schoenbohm and I joined Bruce Beck in an attempt to climb two peaks called “X” and “Y” by Beck. Beck had made ascents of two unclimbed peaks in the a...
Pt. 6,000' of Mt. Yukla, The History of Things to Come, and The Positive Side of Negative Thinking. After many failed attempts, with several partners, I finally got up two new routes this winter, 2006, on the northwest face of Mount Yukla (7,535')...
ROLAND PALMEDO 1896-1977Roland was better known in ski mountaineering than in technical climbing circles. His activity in developing interest in skiing during the 1930s was exceeded by no one, probably not even equaled. In the incorporation of The...
Baltoro Kangri on Skis. Baltoro Kangri, formerly called the Golden Throne, has five distinct summits, the highest of which is 23,880 feet. It was climbed by Japanese in 1963 and 1976 from the Duke of Abruzzi Glacier via the prominent col to the ea...
This My Voyage, by Tom Longstaff. 324 pages, with 23 illustrations and 14 sketch maps. London: John Murray, 1950. Price, 21/-.This remarkable book of adventuring is the autobiography of a recent past-president of the Alpine Club who is still going...
The Committee thinks it desirable, before making specific recommendations, to point out certain conditions pertaining to mountaineering in our time which may have had unfortunate effects. These comments are not based exclusively on the foregoing l...
Frontier Group, various climbs. In the Frontier Group of the Waddington Range, Bob Hamilton, Billy Hood, Neil McGougan, Dave Ritchie, and we did several climbs, all except one of which (Bottleneck) we believe to be new. Our thanks to Don Serl and ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount MalloyOn a Sierra Club trip to Mt. Malloy on July 21, 1985, a woman (35) was unable to self arrest a sitting glissade in soft snow down a 30 degree chute while descending the mounta...
Mountaineers. The Mountaineers enjoyed a successful year in 1949. Membership is now almost 2000, with the main group in Seattle and smaller branches in Tacoma and Everett. Activities range from musicales, old-time dances and a yearly outdoor play ...
REPORT OF THE SAFETY COMMITTEE OF THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB1950The mountain accidents reported during 1949 from the English-speaking portions of North America have fortunately been fewer than those of the previous two seasons. Particularly striking...
Fox Jaw Cirque, various ascents. During July, Matteo Della Bordella, Richard Felderer, Lorenzo “Pala” Lanfranchi, and Simone Pedeferri from the Ragni di Lecco climbed four new routes in the Fox Jaw Cirque.The team climbed five routes in 20 days an...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCE, FATIGUE Alaska, Pioneer PeakOn Monday, March 16, 1987, at 0330,I was contacted by Bruce McCormick of the Alaska Mountain Rescue Group and requested to respond to a staging area al...
Mount Burney, PatagoniaEric E. ShiptonMOUNT Burney is a volcano standing near the northwest corner of the Muñoz Gamero Peninsula, which is about 2000 square miles in area. Though a familiar landmark seen from ships passing through Smyth and Union ...
Over 15 days during February 2012, Mason Earle (U.S.), Sam Farnsworth (U.K.), Siebe Vanhee (Belgium), and I weaved an improbable, intricate path directly behind Salto Tuyuren, topping out within a stones throw of where the waterfall bursts from th...
Alpinisme Hivernal, by Marcel Kurz. Payot, Paris, Second printing, 1928. F. 50.The reprinting of this justly famous work is a propitious moment to bring it to the attention of our readers. One of the few books written in French on winter mountaine...
A JET. YES, I was sure it was a jet. It was only slightly different, but uniquely so, from the roar of avalanches thundering down everywhere around us. I’d only recently seen huge tongues of boiling snow flickering out from the base of the wal...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressClaude Ratté was a member of the Quebecoise 2008 Expedition, which consisted of two party members out of Quebec. Richard Cadorette, the second team member, had left the expedition ap...