Accident Reports ANAM
Auto-Belay Fatality Colorado, Northern Colorado

On June 12, a woman (57) died after falling 40 feet while climbing indoors. She appeared to have either become disconnected from an auto-belay or failed to clip into it. A police investigation found no fault in the equipment. ANALYSIS Though fat...

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| Published 2021 | Author Mountain Project, Gymclimber.com, 9News Owen Clarke


Accident Reports ANAM
Top-Rope Soloing Fall — Device Unclipped from Rope Colorado, Montezuma, Haus Rock

On the morning of September 19, Craig Faulhaber (41) fell to the ground while top-rope-soloing Burning Down the Haus (5.13d). This 45-foot, slightly overhanging sport route is located on Haus Rock near Keystone, Colorado. Faulhaber, a climber with...

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| Published 2021 | Author Craig Faulhaber, Mountain Project, Climbing Magazine and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Lowering Error — Rope Too Short, No Stopper Knot Colorado, Rifle Mountain Park, Project Wall

On May 22, a climber fell approximately 40 feet to the ground while being lowered from The Eighth Day (160 feet, 5.13a). This classic pitch is located on the Project Wall and has chains mid-route for a double-lower or rappels. While the climber wa...

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| Published 2021 | Author Gymclimber .com


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Skis — Failure to Adequately Assess Conditions Colorado, San Juan Mountains, Wilson Peak

On April 20, my partner Scott and I, Alec Orenstein (37), attempted a ski descent of the northeast face (the “Coors Couloir”) of 14,017-foot Wilson Peak near Telluride. We began our approach via Silver Pick Basin at around 4 a.m. Changing over to ...

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| Published 2021 | Author Alec Orenstein


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error — Inadequate Knot Block Colorado, Ouray, Camp Bird Road

On January 29, veteran climbers Tom Bohanon (65) and Wayne McIlwraith (74) experienced a rappelling accident while descending from Chockstone Chimney (WI3) in the Camp Bird Road area. Injuries were thankfully minor. Bohanon and McIlwraith climbed...

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| Published 2021 | Author Tom Bohanon


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice — Inadequate Protection Colorado, Telluride, Bridalveil Falls

On February 1, Michael Levy (31) suffered a broken fibula after taking a leader fall on the second pitch of Bridalveil Falls (3 pitches, WI5+) near Telluride. He and climbing partner Tom Bohanon (65) effected a self-rescue to the nearby access roa...

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| Published 2021 | Author Michael Levy and Tom Bohanon


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Dolma Kang, Southeast Face, Partial New Route and First Alpine-style Ascent Nepal, Rolwaling Himal

From a base in the village of Na (4,183m), Elvira Mayol, Pep Roig, Tomeu Rubí, and I acclimatized by exploring the surrounding area and climbing a few low hills, and then attempted Ramdung (5,930m). Tomeu and I reached the summit, Elvira and Pep a...

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| Published 2022 | Author Cati Lladó


Accident Reports ANAM
Bouldering Fall — Insufficient Pad Placement California, San Diego, Santee Boulders

On the afternoon of March 6, Joseph Chen (33) fell from near the top of American Express (5.9). The climb is described on Mountain Project as a top-rope. However, the 15-foot granite slab is often climbed as a boulder problem. Chen was unroped. C...

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| Published 2021 | Author Joseph Chen


Accident Reports ANAM
Leg Stuck in Crack California, Joshua Tree National Park, Left Horse Area

On a spring day in Joshua Tree, a climber returned to practice roped soloing after many years away from the sport. He started up Granny Goose (5.7), a 50-foot traditional route in a well-traveled area. After passing the initial flake on the route,...

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| Published 2021 | Author Mountain Project and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Bouldering Fall California, Joshua Tree National Park, Echo Rock Boulders

In March, Lucy Kim (23) fell from Classic Thin Crack (V2) in Joshua Tree, severely damaging her left ankle. With her hands at the top, Kim chose to jump off in order to retry the problem. Below were six crash pads and two spotters. She fell in an ...

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| Published 2021 | Author Lucy Kim


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall California, High Desert, Apple Valley Area, Alessandria

On Saturday, March 6, Tylea Brown (39) and her husband, Casey Cruz (32), accompanied by their two young daughters, were enjoying climbing in the Southern California high desert. After completing several single-pitch routes, Brown was belaying Cruz...

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| Published 2021 | Author Tylea Brown and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Rappel Error California, Echo Cliffs, The Grotto

My wife (Kelly Perkins, 59) and I (Craig Perkins, 60) have rock climbed for 20 years. After a long hiatus, I took time to refresh my skills, including anchor building, knots, and gear placement. Our climb, Miss Pacman (5.9, sport), was fun and ini...

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| Published 2021 | Author Craig Perkins


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on 4th-Class Rock — Climbing Unroped California, High Sierra, Palisades

On May 31, Vik Waghray (24) fell to his death while traversing from Temple Crag to Mt. Gayley. He and Michael Layton (45) were attempting the long and arduous Temple- Gayley-Sill-Thunderbolt traverse. The pair had summited Temple Crag and were on...

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| Published 2021 | Author Michael Layton


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Inadequate Protection, Inexperience California, Yosemite National Park, Cathedral Peak

On August 13, BJ Cook and I responded to an accident while climbing on the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak, a five-pitch, 5.6 traditional climb in Tuolumne Meadows. BJ and I are experienced climbers and have many moderate multi-pitch trad cli...

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| Published 2021 | Author Matthew Lee


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South Early Winters Spire, Two Hard New Routes United States, Washington, North Cascades

Nathan Hadley on pitch two of Rubbernecker (600’, IV 5.14-). Photo by Jeremiah Watt   Shortly after moving to Washington in 2015, I was scouring the guidebooks for aid lines to free. In 2016, I found Midnight Ride (600’, 5.9 A4) in Fred Beck...

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| Published 2022 | Author Nathan Hadley


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock Yosemite National Park, El Capitan

On June 16, Matthew “Mash” Alexander (50) was struck by rockfall in the face and head as he slept. He and his climbing partner, Sean McGinness (48), were bivying in hammocks midway up El Cap, near the Nose route. The team had spent seven nights o...

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| Published 2021 | Author Climbing.com and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Free Soloing Yosemite National Park, Manure Pile Buttress

On April 11, Josh Ourada (31) fell while free soloing Nutcracker (5 pitches, 5.8) on the Manure Pile Buttress. Ourada has been climbing for over ten years and was no stranger to free soloing. He had climbed Nutcracker before, both with and without...

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| Published 2021 | Author Josh Ourada, Climbing Magazine and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Roped Soloing, Inadequate Protection California, Yosemite National Park, Manure Pile Buttress

On April 13, Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) responded to a roped soloist who had fallen and injured himself while climbing the second pitch of After Six (5 pitches, 5.7) on Manure Pile Buttress. It was reported that the rope-soloist had come t...

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| Published 2021 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Exposure and Weather California, Yosemite National Park, Half Dome

In the evening of October 17, two climbers, Kate (28) and Nick (26), started up the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (23 pitches, 5.9 C2) after completing the Nose on El Capitan (31 pitches, 5.9 C2) earlier in the same day. Nick and Kate were b...

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| Published 2021 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Off Route, Inadequate Protection California, Yosemite National Park, Five Open Books

On March 4, two climbers, “Jeff” and “Erin,” climbed Munginella (3 pitches, 5.6) to the base of Selaginella (4 pitches, 5.8) in the Five Open Books area near Yosemite Falls. The pair were both experienced, and these routes were within their abilit...

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| Published 2021 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers