Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock Yosemite National Park, El Capitan

On June 16, Matthew “Mash” Alexander (50) was struck by rockfall in the face and head as he slept. He and his climbing partner, Sean McGinness (48), were bivying in hammocks midway up El Cap, near the Nose route. The team had spent seven nights o...

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| Published 2021 | Author Climbing.com and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Free Soloing Yosemite National Park, Manure Pile Buttress

On April 11, Josh Ourada (31) fell while free soloing Nutcracker (5 pitches, 5.8) on the Manure Pile Buttress. Ourada has been climbing for over ten years and was no stranger to free soloing. He had climbed Nutcracker before, both with and without...

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| Published 2021 | Author Josh Ourada, Climbing Magazine and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Roped Soloing, Inadequate Protection California, Yosemite National Park, Manure Pile Buttress

On April 13, Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) responded to a roped soloist who had fallen and injured himself while climbing the second pitch of After Six (5 pitches, 5.7) on Manure Pile Buttress. It was reported that the rope-soloist had come t...

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| Published 2021 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Exposure and Weather California, Yosemite National Park, Half Dome

In the evening of October 17, two climbers, Kate (28) and Nick (26), started up the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (23 pitches, 5.9 C2) after completing the Nose on El Capitan (31 pitches, 5.9 C2) earlier in the same day. Nick and Kate were b...

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| Published 2021 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Off Route, Inadequate Protection California, Yosemite National Park, Five Open Books

On March 4, two climbers, “Jeff” and “Erin,” climbed Munginella (3 pitches, 5.6) to the base of Selaginella (4 pitches, 5.8) in the Five Open Books area near Yosemite Falls. The pair were both experienced, and these routes were within their abilit...

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| Published 2021 | Author Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Third-Class Traverse California, Tahoe Area, Newly Developed Area

I (Bobby Hutton, 31) wanted to show my friend Adam a new area that my friends and I were developing. In early April, we decided to drop lines down a cliff to work on new routes. To access the top of the cliff, we crossed a steep granite gully and...

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| Published 2021 | Author Bobby Hutton


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Inadequate Protection California, Lake Tahoe Area, Cloudburst Canyon, Green Tongue Area

On July 17 my girlfriend, Hannah (29), and I (30) went out for a day in an obscure climbing area, just southeast of Lake Tahoe, called Cloudburst Canyon. On my third climb I fell at the crux, ripped three pieces of protection, and fell to the grou...

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| Published 2021 | Author Kyle Broxterman


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error — Fracture, Spinal Injury California, Northern Sierra, Rainbow

On May 27, while climbing at Rainbow, west of Donner Pass, I (Carl Alsup, 39) rappelled off the end of my rope. I had just led Malcolm’s Route (5.9) to the top of the formation. My wife was going to follow but decided she was going to save her str...

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| Published 2021 | Author Carl Alsup


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest California, Mt. Shasta, Hotlum/Bolam Ridge

On June 19, a family of seven from Utah attempted to climb the Hotlum/Bolam Ridge route. By midmorning they had begun the steeper section of the route at 12,300 feet. They were all roped together—with no intermediate protection nor belay anchors—w...

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| Published 2021 | Author Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch

In the afternoon of April 9, a solo climber took a glancing blow to the thigh by a quoted “500-pound rock” while climbing Avalanche Gulch. The climber was near the Heart, which is the steepest part of the route, with slopes reaching 35°. Another s...

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| Published 2021 | Author Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Boulder Rolled Onto Leg California, Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Route

The east side of Mt. Shasta in September 2012 (left) and September 2021 (right). Exceptionally dry conditions in 2021 contributed to a number of accidents on the mountain. Photo by Phil Rhodes On June 23, a lone male (31) was climbing the Cle...

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| Published 2021 | Author Mt. Shasta Climbing Ranger Report


Accident Reports ANAM
Ground Fall — Improperly Clipped Anchor Tether Arizona, Cochise Stronghold, Owl Rock

On the afternoon of January 31, Tim Parker (35) suffered a ground fall from the anchors of Naked Prey (5.12a) in Cochise Stronghold. Parker is a climber with over 15 years of experience. His partner, Darcy Mullen (32), is a climber of over 10 year...

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| Published 2021 | Author Tim Parker and Darcy Mullen


Accident Reports ANAM
Loose Rock at Base of Route Arizona, Phoenix, South Mountain Preserve

On November 11, Joshua Brown (23) and a partner (22) were climbing in an undeveloped area that required 3rd- and 4th-class scrambling up a loose slope to access the base of the crag. The pair finished a ground-up, trad first ascent and began packi...

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| Published 2021 | Author Joshua Brown


Accident Reports ANAM
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema — Ascending Too Fast Alaska, Denali West Buttress

On May 29, a 25-year-old male climber was assisted to the NPS medical tent at 14,200-foot camp by his climbing partners. The team reported they had flown to 7,200-foot camp and immediately moved to 11,200-foot camp. They then spent two nights at t...

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| Published 2021 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Accidental SOS Activation Alaska, Denali, West Buttress

In the early morning hours of May 29, Denali mountaineering rangers were notified of an SOS activation at 11,200-foot camp. Ranger teams on the mountain at the 7,200-, 7,800-, and 14,200-foot camps were notified and involved in the information gat...

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| Published 2021 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Frostbite — Poor Position Alaska, Denali West Buttress

On the afternoon of May 22, two male climbers left 14,200-foot camp for 17,200-foot camp. The 57-year-old male and 56-year-old male embarked on their climb in spite of weather warnings from rangers and during winds gusting to 40 mph in camp. After...

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| Published 2021 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers and The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Ice — Fatality Alaska, Denali West Face of Reality Ridge

On May 13, Denali mountaineering rangers received an SOS message from a Garmin inReach satellite device. At 6:01 a.m., rangers began two-way communications with a climbing party comprised of Climber 1 (male, 31) and Climber 2 (male, 32). These cli...

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| Published 2021 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatal Crevasse Fall Alaska, Denali National Park, Eldridge Glacier

On May 1, a 23-year-old female and 28-year-old male flew onto the South Spur of the Eldridge Glacier with the intent of exploring ski mountaineering objectives in the vicinity. This spur of the Eldridge Glacier originates to the northeast of the R...

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| Published 2021 | Author Denali Mountaineering Rangers


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche Alaska, Neacola Mountains, Mt. Neacola

Less than two weeks prior to completing the first ascent of the 4,600-foot north face of Mt. Neacola (5.10 A2 M6), a trio of New Hampshire-based climbers were nearly killed in an avalanche. On April 1, I (31), Ryan Driscoll (34), and Justin Guari...

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| Published 2021 | Author Nick Aiello-Popeo


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Hissar Range, Mura Peaks Tajikistan, Pamir Alai

In June 2021, I led a group from Iskanderkul lake to Sarytag village, then west and south to the Mura Valley, leading off the Zambar Valley. The Mura Valley, located in the Hissar (a.k.a. Gissar) Range, has a small glacier with a beautiful lake, a...

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| Published 2021 | Author Michal Kleslo