Pete Dronkers and I (both U.S.) spent several weeks in August climbing in the central Rushan Range. We were drawn to the area by stable weather, unclimbed peaks, relatively simple access, and friends who had spent time recently in the range. We...
THE SPECTRE, reminiscent of Fitz Roy, is located at 86°12.255’S, 148°28.294’W, in the Gothic Peaks (named by American scientist and mountaineer Ed Stump). The closest human habitation is the U.S. base at the South Pole, 440km away, while the close...
Nanga Parbat from the northwest. Red is the upper section of the Mackiewicz-Revol route with Camp 4 marked. (C) is the crevasse bivouac at 7,280m from where Revol descended alone along the blue line (the Kinshofer Route). Google EarthA LITTLE AFTE...
Forty-two percent of climbers registered to attempt Denali reached the summit in 2017, the lowest percentage since 2014. More than 90 percent of the summit days were after May 30. No climbers succeeded on Mt. Foraker (Sultana).In a difficult seaso...
Dana “Maddog” Drummond and I knew we were in for a good time when Paul Roderick admitted this was his first time landing on the East Fork of the Dall Glacier. Six miles up valley from our base camp lay the east face of Mt. Russell (11,670’), an im...
In mid-June, James Kesterson, Paul Muscat, Glenn Wilson, and I spent eight days mountaineering above the Double Glacier, at the north end of the Chigmit Mountains. We had planned to visit the Neacolas, but bad weather forced us to make a spontaneo...
Luc Mehl and Josh Mumm completed a 200-mile, 15-day ski traverse through Katmai National Park, at the northeast end of the Alaska Peninsula, at the end of winter. On March 20, the two flew from Anchorage to Kamishak Bay in the northeast corner of ...
Over three stormy days in July, Elisha Gallegos and Daniel Schuerch put up a long technical route up the north side of Challenger Point (14,081’). Septem Virtutum Anima Mea (1,500’, 5.8+) ascends a clean shield of rock above the Willow Lake Campgr...
Michael Goodhue and Vincent Keller climbed a new line up the east face of Aiguille de Fleur on the west side of the Park in July. The six-pitch Russian Ties (III, 5.10 R) is in the center of the face, between the original east face route (Hodge-Tr...
In the spring of 2017, Jim Beyer soloed two hard aid routes in the Mystery Towers, adjacent to the Fisher Towers: Let it Go (3 pitches, VI A6) on the northwest face of the Citadel, and Off the Rails (3 pitches, VI A5) on the north face of the Dori...
IN EARLY OCTOBER, Tom Bohanon and I spent several days climbing moderate classics in Red Rock Canyon. The rock climbing was exquisite, but the mountaineer in me yearned for something more adventurous. Bo was keen to travel new ground too.On Octobe...
On May 28, Andy and Jason Dorais set a fastest known time for Mt. Rainier’s Liberty Ridge, approaching and climbing the ridge and skiing down the Emmons Glacier in 7 hours 7 minutes round trip from the White River Campground (5:57 to Columbia Cres...
Becoming enthralled by a place—many people have experienced this after visiting Patagonia, Yosemite Valley, or other climbing destinations. In the lands of the east this is possible as well, especially when there are nearly endless opportunities f...
WITH THE HELP and encouragement of Dave Lucas, a British guide, Kyle Duba, Kyle Elmquist, Micah Rush, and I—all Wyoming boys—pulled off a one-month climbing expedition in South Sinai in November. Near the village of St. Catherine (site of a nearly...
ON JULY 30, at 1:59 p.m., Yosemite dispatch was notified via a 911 call that a climber (Matt Price, male, 20s) had fallen near the start of the classic south ridge of Matthes Crest. The reporting party (Jeff, also in his 20s) said he was Matt’s ...
THIS ARTICLE outlines the causes of morbidity and mortality in avalanche incidents, as well as prudent and practical rescue steps and medical treatments, based on the 2017 Wilderness Medical Society Practice Guidelines for Prevention and Managem...
THOUGH THE EXACT number is unknown, the U.S. Forest Service estimates that at least 10,000 people attempt to climb Mt. Hood annually. Just an hour and a half from the Portland area’s 2.4 million residents and easily visible from downtown, Mt. Ho...
On January 29, 2018, Szu-ting Yi and I met Juan Carlos Martinez, a fisherman in Villa La Angostura, Argentina. He warily eyed the two out-of-place foreigners with bulging packs filled with climbing equipment, camping gear, packrafts, and food for ...
“WHEN IS THIS STORM GONNA END?!” a local pilot asked. Speculation erupted from almost every weary patron in Conscious Coffee, Talkeetna’s finest (though only) coffee shop. The Alaska Range was in the midst of a historic and unrelenting storm, depo...
On October 23, Miha Zupin and I left Slovenia for the Rolwaling, and on the 28th reached the village of Na (4,150m), our base camp for the next three weeks. At the start of our stay there was afternoon snow, but other than that we had beautiful co...