Lower Bear Creek Reservoir. This route follows the obvious first buttress on the east side of the gorge. Five pitches of face and friction climbing on beautiful orange granite led to the brushy slopes atop the face. I made the first ascent solo in...

Mount McKinley. Aside from the ascents noted elsewhere in this Journal, Mount McKinley was ascended via the West Buttress route by the following: on May 29, Hans Zogg, Arnold Bloomer, Stanley H. Jensen, Donald J. Liska, Calvin Magnusson, Donald R....

FALL ON ROCK, NO EXPERIENCE Illinois, Giant City State ParkIn February, Phillip Dract (20) failed to jump a three-foot crack at the popular Devil’s Stand Table, fell 50 feet and became wedged in a rock crevice. He was extracted after several hours...

“Mount Perren” Nothing like admitting to error, even if it is to your own benefit. With the happy admission that the 1966 edition of the Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada has a slight flaw*, known only to the inept clod who perpetra...

FATIGUE, FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn January 17, a climber (male – 25) with limited experience and unfamiliar with “Dirt Deed” (5.6) the route he was on, became fatigued upon approaching the first ledg...

Gasherbrum II. Charlotte Fox became the first American woman to climb Gasherbrum II, summitting in August via the southwest ridge with a team of three Norwegians (the first Norwegians up the mountain) and one Ukrainian (the first from his nation u...

Climbs in 1961. Omitted from the previous Journal were the accounts of several expeditions in 1961, two of them in the Bara Shigri area: J. P. Lynam and three other climbers in August ascended a 21,710-foot peak at the head of the Bara Shigri Glac...

Wyoming, Tetons, Mt. Wister. On August 19, David Walton and Paul Zeiger were making an ascent of the north face of Mt. Wister. Walton was leading, and the party had gone up several easy leads to a small ledge in the couloir at the base of the nort...

Scoresbyland, East Greenland. Our expedition arrived by air in Mestersvig on July 6 and left on August 24. In Greenland the fourteen men split into four groups which operated independently in the field.

Dragontail Peak, first winter ascent of Serpentine Ridge. Ade Miller (Alpine Club, U.K.) and I climbed Dragontail Peak (8,840') by the popular summer line The Serpentine Ridge on March 13, 2004. The route starts with a single pitch ice smear (AI3)...

HAPEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressCharles Grey (40) of the Unfinished Business Expedition (party of 2), reported symptoms of HAPE to the 14,200-foot Ranger Camp on Mount McKinley at midnight on June 9. Grey was ataxic with an oxygen saturat...

Pumori, South Ridge. Hiroshima Shudo University had already sent a four-man reconnaissance party in 1975. On the basis of their reports, we decided on Pumori by the south ridge. Our party was as follows: Soichiro Yagiri, Satoshi Tamura, Kenji Tao,...

Rattlesnake Rock, New Routes in Tumwater Canyon. On January 7, Dave Beckstead and I completed the Wild Flower Route previously started by Roger Oborn and me. Starting across from and east of Piton Tower, the route goes behind and in a large crack ...

Ama Dablam, North Face. A Japanese expedition led by Kasuji Kato climbed a new route on Ama Dablam, the north face. The route was threatened by avalanches and Hisao Fukushima was hit and had to be evacuated. They established three high camps. All ...

Mount Pullen (Boundary Peak 104), Meade Glacier, British Columbia- Alaskan Frontier. After being landed by plane on a tributary of the Meade Glacier near the international boundary, our party of six moved 2½ miles southwest to establish Base Camp ...

Yosemite National Park, various ascents. [Below we present some of the significant long-route news from 2007, compiled from a variety of different sources.] Tommy Caldwell continued his unprecedented Valley free-climbing accomplishments, starting ...

Peak 29. The reconnaissance party this year to Peak 29 (25,705 feet) established Camp V on the east side of the mountain on October 30. They say they have found a possible route on the east ridge. Their reconnaissance last year from the west was u...

Ganesh IV (Pabil) Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Shigeru Nakada had hoped to climb Ganesh III and IV from a col between them. They were plagued by illness which kept four of the seven members unable to climb. They established two camps and ...

Middle Troll, Chaos. On June 9 we climbed what we hoped was a new route on the west side of the Middle Troll in Little Switzerland. The route follows the normal route, via a hidden couloir, to the ridge crest, just below the main rock buttress on ...

Wedge Peak, west ridge attempt. Rob Wing and I established a camp near the northwest face of Wedge Peak (10,239') on July 3, after hiking in via Glacier Creek and the Muldrow moraine. We attempted the unclimbed west ridge of Wedge but were turned ...