Castle Peak, Left Side of North Face. The north face of Castle Peak features six distinct granitic buttresses. Our climb ascended the last buttress on the left side of the face. On September 12, Sue Harrington and I climbed two pitches of slabs to...
Mt. McClellan, Granite Mountain, and Pernod Spire, various new routes. On the east face of Mt. McClellan, in the Enchantments near Leavenworth, Rolf Larson and I climbed a new route in July. The Madcap Laughs (IV 5.10+ C1) starts with four pitches...
Dhampus. Eight members of a French commercial expedition, including the leader Jean Coudray and a 60-year-old member, on October 26 climbed Dhampus via the west ridge from a camp at 16,400 feet.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley
Jichu Drake Attempt and Sepchu Kang. Our women’s expedition went as the first mountaineering expedition to Bhutan on April 16. We had intended to climb the east ridge of Jichu Drake (previously incorrectly identified* as Tsherim Kang). We set out ...
Kalu and Spiti. An. English party of J. G. G. Stephenson, D. T. Osselton, J. M. Stopford, and J. P. O’F. Lynam climbed and explored in Kalu and Spiti during the summer of 1958. No details of what they did are available.
Mount Everest, Attempt. Our expedition, “Comarques de Girona-Everest 1996,” was composed of seven members, all of them from Girona (Catalonia, Spain): Anna Agusti, Quico Campos, Jordi Tosas, Francesc Maso, Carles Figueras, Salvador Coll and Joan C...
Climbers on the Highest Point of Each Continent. It seems that reaching the highest point of each of the continents has become a North American specialty. The first to complete all of them was our member, Dick Bass, when he climbed Everest earlier...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTWyoming, TetonsPaul Gordon (36) was a four-year resident of Jackson Hole and a moderately experienced climber. On August 18, 1982, he and Maureen Flanagan hiked to Amphitheater Lake to practice snow climbing on t...
Cuerno Principal, South Face, Attempt. From January 24 to February 2,1999, Corrado Pipolo and Mauro Florit (Italy) climbed four new pitches (510d A1) on the south face of Cuerno Principal in the Valle del Frances before poor weather conditions for...
Knud Rasmussen Land, Sortebrae Mountains, first ascents. On May 27, 2006, a Twin Otter ski-plane transferred my group from Isafjordur in Iceland to N 69° 05.016', W 27° 38.879' on a tributary glacier feeding into the main Borggraven system. These ...
FALL ON ICE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, PLACED NO PROTECTIONNew York, AdirondacksOn January 29, 1984, Vic Benes fell during the approach to an ice climb on the south side of Lower Cascade Lake off Route 73 in the Adirondacks. The fall occurred after ...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONMontana, Beartooth Wilderness, Silver Run PeakOn August 24, around 0600, my wife, Rebecca Hodgkin, and I left camp —located just off the West Fork of Rock Creek Trail near Quinnebaugh Meadows—to climb Pensive Tower (III ...
Cottontail Tower, East Face, Fisher Towers. This is an area known for soft, dirty rock and aid routes with long bolt ladders. Mine was the first major route without bolts and other drilled protection. There were long run-outs of A4, with potential...
Roraima, Hotel Guácharo. Kurt Albert, Renato Botte, Ivan Calderon, Michael Thaler, and I established Hotel Guácharo (550m, 7a+) in February 2009. This southeast face route is equipped at belays, with the rest mostly traditionally protected. The ro...
FALL INTO BUILDING–MISCALCULATED PENDULUM SWING FROM CRANEColorado, BoulderOn December 6, Ryan Young and Jacob Fuerst climbed over the chain-link fence surrounding a University of Colorado construction site, and walked straight to the base of the ...
Taulliraju, east buttress, second ascent. Possibly the most notable event in the Blanca during 2002 was not the creation of a new route but the second ascent of a major line that had remained unrepeated for 20 years. Over eight days from June 26 t...
California: (3) Stinson Beach Cliffs, Warm Springs, Marin County. On 12 February 1950 Robert L. Swift, 19, an experienced member of the Sierra Club, from Alameda, Cali fornia, fell during a scheduled Sierra Club practice climbing trip on which he ...
Nevado de Pissis and Other Ascents, 1990. Italians led by Luciano Gadenz was active in early 1990 in the high, barren area south of the Ojos del Salado. The other members were Giacomo and Renzo Corona, Giampaolo Depaoli, Silvio and Tullio Simoni a...
At the end of July, Florian Hill (Austria and Germany) and Robert Rauch (Bolivia and Germany) began climbing new ice, rock, and mixed terrain below the gable- end of the southwest ridge of Illimani. The initial passages were threatened by large,...
Gasherbrum II, Italian Women’s Altitude Record. Our expedition, for reasons of permissions, consisted of Gabriel Slovina Ubaldini, Valerio Bruschi, Enrico Mutti, my wife Goretta and me, but Goretta and I actually operated completely independently ...