Everest Attempt. On August 20, Jan Harris and I arrived at the 5600-meter-high Rongbuk Glacier Base Camp. On the 24th, we placed Advance Base at 6400 meters at the foot of the North Col. We established Camps I and II on the North Col and north rid...

Peaks in the Chogolungma Group. It seems incredible that neither of our expeditions to Malubiting Central in 1974 or 1975 really got to the mountain. This year we were thwarted by frightful air service from Rawalpindi to Skardu and incorrect word ...

Second Ascent of Nanda Kot. An all-Naval expedition, consisting of Instr. Lt. M. S. Kohli, leader, Surgeon Lt. Y. C. Sharma, A. S. Pabreja, K. P. Sharma, and D. B. Ambastha, left Delhi on April 27. Sirdar Ang Tsering and Da Temba accompanied the p...

Cashmere Crags, West face of the Mole. Better late than never? On September 15, 1957 Gerry Honey, Jim Fraser and I climbed the west face of the Mole from our camp on the small lake at its base at the head of Rat Creek. The route was the obvious in...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED California, Yosemite Valley, Sunnyside BenchOn August 7, 1994, James Howell (21) free-soloed Lazy Bum, a 5.10d route on Sunnyside Bench. To get back to the ground he traversed several yards left and down to...

Siykhem Nuruu National Park, exploration and a first ascent. Our six member team from the north of England comprised Ken Findlay, Stuart Gallagher, John Given, Les Holbert, Karl Zientek, and myself. We had as our goal exploration of the area aroun...

Shiva (6,142m), north face, attempt. In 2008, while climbing a new route on Mahindra in the Miyar Valley (AAJ 2009), we were captivated by a mysterious peak to the northwest. I later discovered it was Shiva, first climbed in 1988 by Junko Tabei. I...

Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall Attempt. John Smolich, Craig Van Hoy and Andy Politz attempted the Canadian route on the Wickersham Wall. They carried everything to the base of the wall in six days from the Kahiltna Base Camp. They put in a high c...

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park—On September 8, Jim Bjorken (24), Dick Blankenbeckler (25), and Tom Creese (24) were climbing the Grand Teton. At about 10 a.m., when the party was above the notch behind the Molar Tooth, showers appeared to be m...

Selkirk Range of British ColumbiaGlacial Retreat. The change in ice and snow conditions parallels that in the Rockies, and the hot summer of 1941 is accelerating this in all areas. It is especially noticeable in the vicinity of Glacier, where the ...

Dongfang. On April 27, Horst Adamek, Josef Wissenberger, Karl Zöll, Jongbu Sherpa and I made the first ascent of Dongfang (7003 meters, 22,976 feet). This lies 14 kilometers north-northeast of Everest.Sigi Hupfauer, Deutscher Alpenverein

Mount Kiliak and Other Peaks, Western Chugach. This 7450-foot peak near Mount Yukla up the Eagle River valley had been the last virgin 7000-footer near Anchorage since the ascent of Mount Rumble in 1966. Dave Johnston, his sister Jill, my wife Gra...

FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount VictoriaOn August 12, a party of two were starting early up the North Ridge of Mount Victoria to the north peak after a bivouac at the Victoria Collier Col. The ridge is moderate ice with a fourth class ...

Bhagirathi III, South Buttress. This rock pillar was climbed for the first time in 1982 by two Scots. The climb was repeated on September 21, 1994, by the Basques Pablo Aldai, Carlos Arrieta and Felipe Uriarte, who placed five bivouacs on the face...

The Enclosure, North Ice Couloir. Immediately west of the central north buttress of the Enclosure, the west sub-summit of the Grand Teton, is a prominent ice couloir which joins the northwest ridge of the Enclosure at the first great step high abo...

A.A.C.: Cascade Section. William Eastman was elected chairman at one of the several meetings held in Seattle in 1951. Kurt Beam, with Erling Strom, made an ascent of Mt. Assiniboine. Among those climbing in the Alps were Edward LaChapelle, George ...

On October 23, Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell started up the Wall of Morning Light on what may have been the most difficult rock climb yet accomplished. The climb, which lies between the Nose and the North America Wall, was completed 27 days lat...

Temple Crag, Sunribbon Arête, Winter Ascent. Rising almost out of the shores of beautiful Third Lake, the north face of Temple Crag dominates the immediate area, its dark granite walls accented by snow-covered ledges and couloirs in deep winter. G...

Theodore H. (Ted) Church 1925-2008 Ted Church, a member of the American Alpine Club since 1963, died of cancer on December 25. A World War II veteran, Ted graduated from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology with a degree in mechanical enginee...

Chacraraju and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Javier Donés, Carlos Miguel Gallego, Ignacio Hernández, Francisco Pavón, Miguel Angel Vidal and me as leader. Our average age was only 21 years. From August 18 to 21, Gallego, Hernández a...