South Col, One Man’s Adventure on the Ascent of Everest, 1953, by Wilfred Noyce. 303 pages, 5 maps, 4 colored plates, 71 photographs, and 16 drawings. Melbourne, London, Toronto: William Heineman Ltd., 1954.In this interesting and well written boo...
Kangbachen Attempt. A post-monsoon expedition of Rikko University, Japan, was led by Yoshikuno Sakai and Takeo Yamanoi. They attempted the northwest face from the Ramtang Glacier. After continuous snowfall for 60 hours, the route beyond Camp IV (2...
Bandar Punch II. An Indian expedition got to Base Camp from the roadhead at Sukhi and moved over the Sukhi Top and Khagi Pass to establish Base Camp on June 1. Camps I and II were at 18,000 and 19,500 feet, the latter on the upper snowfield of Ban...
Avalanche Safety for Skiers & Climbers. Tony Daffern. Rocky Mountain Books, Calgary, 1983. 172 pages, black and white photographs, diagrams, glossary, bibliography. $11.50 (Canada).Daffern directs this book to the mountaineer or back-country s...
Santa Rosa, Jachacuno Collo, Jacha Cuapirota, Yaypuri, P 5540, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. Thomas Miyagawa and I climbed three peaks in the Campanani group from Base Camp at the Chojña Khota mine. After a steep, icy ascent of the southwest face to the...
Rocky Mountain National Park: Classic Hikes & Climbs. Gerry Roach. Fulcrum, Inc., Golden, Colorado, 1988. 254 pages, black and white photographs. $14.95 (paper).Climbers should rejoice when armed with this passionate compilation of trails, rou...
Portage Glacier Valley, and Along the Seward Highway, Various Ascents. South of Anchorage, in the Portage area, Dave Miller and partners made a number of first ascents during the 1995-’96 season. At the entrance of Bear Valley, Miller and Chris Br...
Tian Shan Mountains (Northeast of the Pamirs). Following the recent expeditions culminating in the successful ascent in 1931 of the giant peak Khan Tengri (6,990 m.), an expedition was sent out in 1933 to explore the western part of the range. Its...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Teewinot—On August 15, Dr. Norman Lee (44) was leading a rope of three other persons up the Black Chimney just beneath the summit of Mt. Teewinot. Lee led a difficult 12-15 foot crack. While standing apparen...
NUT FAILURE—California, Yosemite, Washington’s Column. Nick Donnelly (23), having led the first pitch, belayed Alistair Miller (21), who, when he reached Donnelly, clipped into a nut above the belay anchor while Donnelly belayed the third climber,...
Mustagh Ata, The Golden Eye, new route with ski descent. On July 18, “Sneaky” Pete Lardy, Chad McFadden, and Tom McMillan completed a route to the summit of Mustagh Ata (7,546m). The team then descended the route on skis and snowboard. The trio cl...
Anyemaqin Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Nobumi Nakazawa, Nobuo Matsumoto, Kuniharu Okawa, Akihito Tujino, Tatsushi Aono and me as leader. On July 28, we set up Base Camp at 4500 meters east of Anyemaqin. Camp I was established on July 30...
East McMillan Spire, South Face/East Ridge. On August 22, Jerry Baillie, Doug Sanders, and I climbed this route on East McMillan Spire. We began at the bottom of a rotten gully about 100 yards east of the standard gully route. This right-slanting ...
Satopanth. There were three successful expeditions to Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,540 feet), which climbed the normal north ridge. These were 6 South Koreans led by Jo Joong-Il, 7 Irishmen led by Ciaran Clissman and 3 Japanese led by Yoshihiki Yama...
Cerro Piergiorgio, Esperando la Cumbre. Italians GianLuca Maspes and Maurizio Giordani returned to Piergiorgio in 1996 with the intention of finishing their uncompleted Gringos Locos on the northwest face only to find their fixed ropes shredded by...
Green River Area, Felony Tower. This area is outside of the Park but approached via the Horsethief Trail road. Jim Bodenhamer, Tom Cosgriff, and Roger Schimmel climbed Felony Tower via Poncho Couldn’t Come (IV A2 5.11), with Bodenhamer, Schimmel, ...
FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn July 21-23,1980, Matthew Maloney (22) and Phillippe Fayoux (22) were on a two-day backpacking trip in Death Canyon and Alaska Basin. While hiking the trail from Alas...
FALL ON SNOW, WEATHER – UNSTABLE SNOW CONDITIONS, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSOregon, Mount Hood, Cooper Spur RouteCarey Cardon (31) and his wife Tena Cardon (29) were experienced mountaineers training for a proposed climb of Mt. McKinley. They started ...
Rakaposhi, Northwest Ridge. As part of a six-man Colombian expedition, Anibal Pirvada climbed Rakaposhi (7788 m), summiting August 3, after climbing the northwest ridge, previously climbed in 1986 by a team from Holland. This might be the eighth a...
Mount Logan, Early Bird Buttress Attempt. During April, Mick Deiro, Tim Laughlin, Jeff Jackson and I as leader made a new route on the south face of Mount Logan. The Early Bird Buttress lies to the right of the south-southwest buttress and diagona...