Jirishanca, South Face. Our group, consisting of Matt Kerns, Tom Hargis, Gwen Hall, Hal Tompkins, Brian Cox and me, set up camp at Jahuacocha on June 14. We placed a higher camp at 16,500 feet on the Rasac ridge close to the Yerupajá Glacier. On J...
Grave Lake Dome, South Face. On August 29 Faith Aubin and I made what we believe to be the first ascent of a prominent right-leaning diagonal crack at the western edge of the south face of Grave Lake Dome (10,818 feet). The route begins at an obvi...
Alaska: Mt. Juneau. On 14 May 1948 Ralph E. Mott, a sailor on shore leave, without adequate training or equipment, became separated from his five companions on Mt. Juneau and, descending alone, apparently slipped. He perished on the upper snow slo...
Mama Told Me Not To Come, Voodoo Dome, The Needles. In October, Steve Brower and I climbed this “indirect-direct” start to the White Punks on Dope route. Starting left of the normal start, several bolts protect difficult moves leading to a belay a...
Job. Ben Read and I become well-acquainted with the meaning of short autumn days as we were twice forced to retreat due to darkness from a partially overhanging open-book just below the Braille Book on Higher Cathedral Rock. This seven-pitch climb...
STRANDED, MISCOMMUNICATIONNew Hampshire, Whitehorse LedgeOn October 9, 1983, Ron Crotto and Dave Milard (ages unknown) were climbing the Dike Route (5.6) when the leader, Crotto, called for more rope. The second unroped and dropped the end, which ...
Winter Ascents in the Tetons. In January of 1988 Alex Lowe and I made the first winter ascent of the South Buttress Direct of Mount Moran, which took us four days. Our first day was doing the ski approach. The next two days we climbed the buttress...
Broad Peak North, Solo Attempt. Solo I attempted the north buttress of Broad Peak North (7600 meters, 24,935 feet) during June and July but I had to give up because of bad weather. I was on the wall for 24 days, but had to stop at 23,000 feet beca...
Mount Logan, Schoening Ridge. In 1971, the Alpine Club of Canada planned an expedition to Mount Logan via a new ridge on the south face. In due course, it was decided to make an attempt, via the southwest spur, immediately east of Schoening’s Ridg...
Shartse II. Our joint Korean-Nepalese expedition was composed of Koreans Yoon Dae-Pyo, Kwak Hyo-Kyun, Park Byung-Won, Hu Jung-Sik, Hong Ok- Sun, Miss Kim Jung-Ja and me as leader and Nepalese Sherpas Nima Wanchu, Nuru Wangchu and Ang Pasang. We ar...
Himlung, Attempt. The members of the expedition were Götz Wiegand (leader), Frank Meutzner, Olaf Zill, Matthias Braun, Tilo Bähr and myself. We started our expedition in September. Before starting out to attempt Himlung, we met Miss Elizabeth Hawl...
Dhampus Attempt. Hubert Blondeau, Guy Petermann, Alain Trouillet, Alain and Régine Roche, Claire and Jacques Libanet and I established Base Camp at 5400 meters on Dhampus in October. We made a try to 5650 meters, but very heavy snowfall and cerebr...
Noshaq Attempt. An eight-man expedition from Matsusho Gakuen Junior College was led by Hiromi Koana. After being refused permission for the Pakistani (south) side, they came from the north. Base Camp was set up on the North Atrak Glacier at 15,000...
Latok Group. Eleven Polish climbers led by Aleksander Lwow visited the Latok group in the Panmah Mustagh. They had hoped to climb Latok III’s south face and wanted to test climbing conditions in May, before the usual season. Base Camp was establis...
Quimaraju and Huamashraju. On July 8 Woody (Curtis W.) Stark and I ascended Quimaraju (17,737 feet) from a camp above the icefall at the head of the Quebrada Shallap. Our new route ascended the north side of the peak and it involved a number of pi...
Changtse. A large joint Japanese-Chinese expedition was made up of 17 Japanese, 19 Chinese climbers, five Chinese supporters and three Chinese press members. The Japanese leader was T. Horiuchi. They arrived at Base Camp at 5050 meters on April 23...
San Rafael Swell, Bottleneck Peak, Fumbling Toward Ecstasy. With Laura Zaruba, on October 12, I climbed Fumbling Toward Ecstasy (four pitches, 5.10) on Bottleneck Peak. The route takes a right-facing corner system on the right side of the north fa...
P 6940 Attempt and Ascent of Peak Near Skilbrum. A seven-man Japanese team led by Tadakiyo Sakahara had originally been planning to climb Gasher- brum II, but they suffered such delays in Islamabad that when they arrived at the Baltoro Glacier, th...
Nun, northwest face, attempt. In September Jean-Marc Challandes, Sebastien Gerber, Andreas Hutter, Berhard Spack, and we established an advance base camp at 5,400m on the big plateau that lies at the foot of the l,700m-high northwest face of Nun. ...
Mount St. Elias Attempt and Climbs in the Tombstone Mountains. My three brothers, Herbert, Wolfgang, Bernhard, and I in the summer of 1981 were back in the St. Elias Mountains. We had as our goal the unclimbed northwest ridge of Mount St. Elias. T...