Mount Logan, Northwest Ridge. So ends my fascination this year with remote Mt. Logan. My first solo foray led to the fastest ascent to date: just over 24 hours car-to-car. That was a long day in July. On October 1 I found my own little version of ...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATED, STRANDED, FROSTBITEBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount AssiniboineOn August 2, 1981, a party of two from the eastern United States climbed Mount Assiniboine from the hut. On the descent they separated...
The North Central Cascades. A painted pictorial relief map in oblique aerial view. Copyrighted by George W. Martin and Richard A. Pargeter. Price $2.25.The Cascade Range of Washington shows the intricacies of the structural and geomorphological st...
Mount Sir Donald, North Face, Selkirks. Almost since the time I began climbing I had heard about the appeal of the unclimbed north face of Sir Donald. This summer was the first time I had an opportunity to visit the beautiful Selkirk Range, and as...
Bavarian Expedition to Brooks Range. Reiner Neuger, E. Griessl, George Gruber, G. Mändl and W. Münster flew to Peters Lake by float plane. There they made their Base Camp for their climbs in the Franklin and Romanzof Mountains of the Brooks Range....
Cholatse Ascent, Taboche Attempt. A Swiss expedition was led by Dr. Heidi Lüdi. They climbed a new route, the southeast ridge, on Cholatse (6440 meters, 21,130 feet). They established three high camps. They reached the summit twice: on October 18 ...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. Since Dave Roberts gave a program concerning his ascent of Mount Huntington, there have been two meetings of the section. One was held in May, at which Professor Harold F. Walton spoke on climbs in the Cordillera Bl...
“Athena Tower”, East Buttress; Manitou Peak, Northwest Face, Pantheon Range. After spending ten tent-bound days on the Zeus-Pegasus Col, the weather finally cleared. On August 20, Greg Collum, Fred Beckey and I walked to the west end of the col, t...
Falak Sar, Swat Kohistan. After the Meijo University expedition (Kohtaro Ohyama, Yutaka Arita, Munechika Sawada, Yamamasa Ueno and Hironari Hirabayashi) had climbed Mir Samir in Afghanistan, they went through Kalam and Matiltan to the Falak Sar va...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Cleaver.On the evening of July 24, Rainier National Park rescuers, aided by an Army Reserve Chinook helicopter, rescued Tony Leak (47) from the 12,200-foot level of Kautz Cleaver on Mount Rainier. Leak an...
President Range. The ascent direct from Emerald Lake is not mentioned in the Guidebook because of its great length, now superseded by better routes (Stanley Mitchell Hut), but it should be pointed out (C.A.J., xxvii, 127) that in 1908 the ascent w...
Sloan Peak, Full Moon Fever. Sloan Peak has been described as the “Matterhorn of the Cascades” because of its commanding stature. On December 12, under a full moon experiencing a lunar eclipse, Braden Downey, Will Hinckley, and I climbed a long sn...
Huascarán. Paul Dix and Roger Hart reached the summit of Huascarán on July 11. They climbed the normal route through the Garganta.
Siffleur Wilderness. A group led by Bill Putnam, with guides Rudi Gertsch and Frank Stark, and consisting of Jack Cade, Frances Chappie, Ed Johann, Victor Mahler, and me departed from the public campsite near the Siffleur River gorge just south of...
FALL ON ROCK, ROPE SEVEREDNew Hampshire, Eagle Cliff, Shape ShiftersSteve Dupuis and Jon Sykes, both experienced climbers, were attempting to free a climb they had put up as an A4 aid climb some time before. On October 14, they met at the parking ...
Paine Group. A Czechoslovakian expedition from the city of Ostrava, composed of Zdeneck Vlc, leader, Peter Baudis, Leos Korka, Pavel Klimza, Miro Rozehal, Vaclan Sagan, Jiri Tomcala, Jaromir Volny and Ludwick Zahoransky, and reinforced by four Chi...
K2, North Ridge. The Japanese Mountaineering Association led by Isao Shinkai and Masatsugu Konishi was composed of 14 climbers and 29 Japanese support people, since no high-altitude local porters were available. “Base Home” was established on May ...
Punta Numa, So Long Fox. An Italian pair opened an impressive route on the Punta Numa (baptized by Eloy Callado and Cesar Pedrochi after they made the first ascent on August 19,1997). Roberto Iannilli and Luciano Mastracci climbed a line to the ri...
Ishinca and Urus. A light Italian expedition was composed of Santino Calegari, leader, Carlo Nembrini, Graziano Bianchi, Andrea Facchetti and Giuliana Pergo. On August 11, along with the Peruvian Emilio Angeles, all five climbed Ishinca (18,143 fe...
Avalanche film produced by U.S. Forest Service. This movie, entitled “Avalanches to Order,” has recently been completed in little Cottonwood Canyon in the Wasatch National Forest, Utah. The narration is by Lowell Thomas and is directed toward the ...