Nagpai Gosum, Chinese military encounter. My partner Jeff Lamoureux and I traveled to Kathmandu on September 5 to attempt a new route on 7,350m Nagpai Gosum. We discovered three different names for the mountain: Nagpai Gosum I, Cho Aui, and Pasang...
Tirich Mir. Seven members of the Kyoto section of the Japanese Alpine Club led by Tateshi Sudoh joined with six Pakistanis. They placed Base Camp on the Upper Tirich Glacier and Camps I, II, III and IV at 4800, 5800, 6400, 6800 and 7300 meters on ...
Wolf’s Head, South Face. One of the last unclimbed problems in the Cirque of the Towers region was the Wolf’s Head south face. I had not given it serious consideration until September 7, when Jerry Fuller and I arrived early at its foot wondering ...
Chaukhamba III (6,974m) and IV (6,853m). An Indian expedition (Nehru Institute of Mountaineering) led by Col. Ashok Abbey made the first attempt on these unclimbed peaks. The team consisted of instructors from the Institute. A high point of 6,300m...
Aconcagua Attempt and Ascent. On December 14, Brian Asbury and Glen Frank started up from the normal route's 14,000 foot-basecamp in an attempt to make the second (?) ascent of the Estiban Escaiola route on the west face of Aconcagua. Day one asce...
PULLED OFF A LOOSE BLOCK – FALL ON ROCKWashington, Mount StuartI was climbing the West Ridge of Mount Stuart on September 7 when I pulled off a loose block and took a 60-foot fall. We were roped up,belaying the pitch. We had decent protection in, ...
P 12,266, Mount Hooker Region, Wind River Range. In August my brother Jonathan and I climbed the 1000-foot face of P 12,266, which is just north of Baptiste Lake. We started on steep, loose rock just right of a prominent arête. Halfway up, the roc...
Endicott Mountains. Peak 6800 is one of the most astonishing limestone walls in the Brooks Range. It stands above a beautiful canyon on the upper western fork of the Itkillik River, immediately east of the Cocked Hat Glacier. Approaching from Anak...
Alpine Club of Canada Camp at Elk Lake. Approximately 170 people attended the Elk Lake Camp, held in the French Military Group south of the Kananaskis Lakes, a new area for the Annual Camp. The following peaks were climbed as first ascents: Aosta,...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF RAPPEL—KNOT CAME UNDONE,NO HARD HATWest Virginia, Seneca RocksOn October 12, 1994, Imtiaz Lalvi (32) and David Lue-Chee-Lip (26) had just finished climbing Candy Corner to Skyline Traverse. When they arrived at Lower Broad...
Pico Colón, Pico Bolívar and other peaks. An expedition of our club, made up by H. Frank, J. L. Moreno and me, placed Base Camp near lake Usugaca. A very large group of German trekkers also camped nearby. On December 25, our group climbed Pico Tai...
West Temple, Southeast Face, Full Steam Ahead. From February 11-24, Ammon McNeely soloed the route Full Steam Ahead (VI 5.10 A4) on the southeast face of West Temple. Gabe McNeely belayed him on the first pitch. The first and sixth pitches have de...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. The Oregon Section is continuing the testing of ice screws on Mount Hood under Jack Baldwin’s able direction. This program will continue through early spring, with a full report to follow the completion of the testing. As u...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Oregon, Columbia River Gorge, Broughton BluffOn May 28, Kurt Gierlich (42) fell 60 feet to the ground from a route on Broughton Bluff. Someone with a portable phone called 911, and a rescue followed. Twelve resc...
Aconcagua—Quaderns d’Alpinisme N° 4. Carles Capellas, Editor. Servei General d’Informació de Muntanya, Centre de Documentació Alpina, Apartat de Correus 330, Sabadell, Barcelona, Spain, 1993. 32 pages, photographs, maps, diagrams, route sketches. ...
Mount Chamberlin, West Pillar. The 1400-foot vertical granite face of this peak is not fully visible from any road or major trail, and thus it escaped the recent heavy pressure of Sierra rock climbing until July when Mike Farrell and I made the ro...
A Guide to Sequoia and General Grant National Parks, by Ansel F. Hall, chief naturalist of the National Park Service. Illustrated by Donald G. Kelly. National Parks Publishing House, Berkeley, California. 1931).This attractive little book should b...
DAVID AMBLER SOWLES1933–1963David Ambler Sowles was born on October 16, 1933, and was killed in a tragic climbing accident on August 4, 1963 during an electrical storm while descending the north ridge of the Weisshorn after a successful ascent of ...
Colorado, Long’s Peak—On April 19, Prince D. Willmon (23) (Leader),David L. Jones (18), Jane R. Bendixen (18) and James Greig, left Long’s Peak campground early to climb the east face of Long’s Peak. They reached the base of Alexander’s Chimney ab...
West Virginia, Nelson Rocks. On April 22 George Farrow, Jerry Frederick, and Beverly Frederick were doing practice climbs on the cliffs. The day was sunny and the rock was dry. They had finished their climbing and decided to rappel down. They had ...