Mountaineering Club of Alaska. In February, Mark Miraglia and Dolly Lefever climbed the Northeast Ridge of Mt. Tasman in New Zealand. Dolly’s climb is thought to be the first ascent of this peak by someone with artificial hips. Meanwhile in Alaska...
K2 North Ridge Attempt. We started from Rawalpindi in Pakistan on May 11, crossed the Khunjerab Pass and reached Kashgar on May 16. We were six climbers: Gérard Bretin, François Marsigny, Pierre Royer, Frédéric Valet, my wife Annie and I. Jacques ...
Wyoming RockiesTeton RangeWeather and seasonal conditions were both good during 1939, and a large number of ascents (163) were reported to the Park Naturalist at Jenny Lake. All the major peaks except Buck Mountain were climbed at least twice, the...
Colorado, Devil’s Thumb—On Sunday, August 7, 1955, John Auld (16), Jim Auld (19), and Sheldon Schiager (18) drove from Colorado Springs, Colorado, to the Boulder area intending to climb the Maiden, a popular rock formation famous for the spectacul...
Fisher Towers, Echo Tower, Phantom Spirit. On September 2-3, Dave Goldstein and I made a hammerless ascent of Phantom Spirit on Echo Tower. Someone had probably done it before, because it wasn’t super hard, but it was still a terrific route.Dougal...
FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, DEHYDRATION, FAILURE TO DESCEND, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 7, 1993, Juliane Manelshagen (29), along with Eier Helmut and Hermann Pinggera, left the 14,200 foot camp on the West Buttress, establishing...
Ama Dablam, northwest ridge, first ascent. A British expedition arrived below the mountain in October and based themselves in the flesh-pots of Pangboche with the aim of attempting the unclimbed northwest ridge of 6812m Ama Dablam. First off the m...
Great Trango Tower Attempt. Under the leadership of Antonio Perezgrueso of Spanish Television, Fernando Cobo, Jon Lazcano, Guillermo Banales and Máximo Murcia came to within three or four rope-lengths of completing a new and difficult route on the...
Saser Muztagh, Plateau Peak (7,287m), attempt. The name “Plateau Peak” is something of a contradiction: the mountain is massive and wears a permanent ice cap. Despite several attempts, by 2009 the peak still remained unclimbed. Our five- member In...
OVERDUE, DIFFICULTY FOLLOWING ROUTE, POOR CONDITIONS—SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, FROSTRITEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Edith CavellOn September 30, G. M. (30) and partner (39) climbed the East Ridge of Mt. Edith Cavell (3363 meters). The route was in p...
K2 Attempt. Wojciech Kurtyka and I had hoped to climb a new route on the west side of K2. We got to the normal Base Camp at 5100 meters on May 26. The route to Advance Base at 6200 meters is very long and we had engaged two porters to help carry t...
The 2005 Maitri (Hindi for Friendship) Karakoram Expedition was a joint venture of Indian and American climbers. The Indians were Ameya Chandawarkar, Surendra Anant Chavan, Rajesh Gudgil, leader Divyesh Muni, Vineeta Muni, Shripad Sapkal, and Cyru...
VARIOUS STRANDED CLIMBERSWyoming, Devils Tower National Monument, Devils TowerOn October 30th, rangers received a phone call from Crook County dispatch regarding a group of climbers who were stuck on the south side of Devils Tower with a rope caug...
Rimo I (7,385m), route unknown. In July-August, an Indian Mountaineering Foundation team led by Major K. S. Dhami claims to have reached the summit of Rimo I, a difficult peak in a side valley to the east of the Siachen Glacier. Bad weather and po...
Ghulam Tower, Giorgio Lorenzo. It was reported that the four-man team of Riccardo Milani, Adriano Selva, Andrea Spandri and Natale Villa made the first ascent of the Ghulam Tower (4720m), a rock spire on the west bank of the Gondokoro Glacier that...
Ispa Rid, Southeast ridge, Cordillera Carabaya. Travelling by car from Santiago, a Chilean group reached the base of Allin Capac’s sister peak, at times called Ispa Riti (5723 meters, 18,776 feet). A base camp was placed at 4200 meters in the Anta...
FALL ON ROCK, EQUALIZED SLING FAILUREOregon, Smith Rock State ParkOn June 7, a climber was being lowered by his partner after climbing the route, Easy Reader (5.6) at the Dihedrals in Smith Rock State Park.After descending about 15 feet, the ancho...
Cho Oyu from the North in the Pre-Monsoon. As in other seasons, there were numerous ascents of Cho Oyu by the west side from the north. The well-known Mexican climber, Carlos Carsolio, made a whirlwind tour in the pre-monsoon season and did two fa...
Mount Tyndall, Direct East Face. In September Steve Brewer, David Wil son and I made the first ascent of this 1500-foot granite wall. Two earlier routes follow gully systems on either side of the sheer wall that begins in overhangs above a permane...
Washington, Olympic National Park, Mt. Olympus. On September 3, a group of climbers had reached the summit pyramid. There was light rain and fog. One rope team was starting up the summit ridge with another rope team moving on the snow along the ba...