Gangapurna Attempt. Four Austrians led by Reinhold Amann failed in the pre-monsoon period to climb the east ridge of Gangapurna (7455 meters, 24,458 feet), which they hoped to reach from the south. They originally hoped to climb the west ridge but...
AAC, New England Section. Un success fou! AAC New Englanders flocked to a hilltop in Weston, Massachusetts, on March 30, 1996, to fill our 70place capacity. The sound of conversation, punctuated with laughter, greetings and introductions, rose ste...
Meru East Face, Attempt. The original aim of the expedition was to make the first ascent of the north face of the highest summit in Himachel Pradesh, Reo Purgyil (6816m), which straddles the border between India and Tibet. Unfortunately, two days ...
Spanish Dhaulagiri Attempt. A four-man Spanish team led by Miguel Díaz had hoped to climb the east face of Dhaulagiri to the northeast ridge, but this was too dangerous because of big falling ice slabs and they turned to the northeast ridge. Rafae...
Curtis Ridge. Without doubt the most frequently attempted and eagerly sought route on Mount Rainier over the past 25 years has been Curtis Ridge on the northeast side. Separating Winthrop Glacier from Willis Wall and Carbon Glacier, this steep and...
Mount Conness, West Face, Rosy Crown Route. In June 1974, Gary Colliver and I put up a new route starting 300 feet to the right of the Harding route. We climbed free for a full 150 feet. The second pitch went free until the crack became shallow. W...
Shinn, South Face Direct. There were only three reported ascents of nearby Shinn (4,660m). While acclimatizing for his attempt on Tyree, Austrian Chris Stangl soloed the south face direct of Shinn, via a variant of one or both of the existing Chou...
Dachl: One of the most difficult climbs and one of the most talked of rescues, of the past summer took place on the north face of the Dachl in the Gesäuse. Long known to Vienese as a rock-climbing goal, the direct route to the summit up the north ...
Makalu Attempt and Kangchungtse Ascent. Our expedition was made up of Maurice and Marc van der Berge, Wim Willekens, Michel Schuitemaker, Dr. Frank Hoppenbrouwer and me as leader. We hoped to climb the northwest ridge of Makalu by the standard rou...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION,EXCEEDED ABILITIES Colorado, Glenwood SpringsIn July, Wyman Bontrager (36) attempted to lead a 5.8 crack climb and attempted to lie-back an extremely thin crack one meter parallel to main crack system. Vi...
Yulong Shan Attempt. Yulong Shan (Jade Dragon Mountain) is the predominant peak in a compact mountain group in northern Yunnan Province. The peak has an unofficial height of 5600 meters and is readily accessible from the nearby city of Lijiang. In...
Meije, by Georges Sonnier. 118 pages. Paris: André Wahl, 1952.This little piece of fiction, so poetically written, tells the tale of three climbers, a Frenchman, an Englishman, and a German, who set out to make the first ascent of the stupendous n...
Cerro Colorado, Vallecitos, 1992. A rock peak, difficult from any side, Cerro Colorado (4650 meters, 15,256 feet) was finally climbed on September 27, 1992 by Guillermo Cremaschi and Mauricio Fernández. They rated it IV, 60°. It had been previousl...
AVALANCHENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Tuckerman RavineOn March 30, 1990, the Mount Washington area received about 20 cm of new snow, with winds greater than 65 kph from the south. The winds continued through the night.At 0800 the next morning,...
Mustagh Ata North. Horst Schindelbacher, Hans Sauseng, Thomas Hois, Manfred Wydra and I as leader climbed Mustagh Ata North in September. We went up the Chodomak Glacier on skis but where the Yambulak and Chodomak Glaciers meet at about 7000 meter...
Cho Oyu; by Favor of the Gods, by Herbert Tichy. Translated from the German by Basil Creighton. Foreword by Sir John Hunt. London: Methuen & Co., 1957. 196 pages; ills.; maps. Price 25s.In the evergrowing shelves of mountaineering books there ...
Bridger Jack, Indian Creek, Still Alive at 35. The route climbs the east face of the mesa beginning in a shallow chimney on the right side of a prow. A large roof near the top of the landform (bypassed on right) is the best landmark. The first asc...
Phabrang. A four-member Japanese group led by Shiro Sekimoto climbed Phabrang (6172 meters, 20,250 feet) twice by different routes. On August 8, all four climbed the southeast face and on the 13th they all climbed to the summit again via the east ...
Mount Owen, South Chimney. Of the whole southeast face of Mount Owen, directly above the Teton Glacier, there is only one obvious line of weakness, a prominent deep chimney cutting up across the Fryxell route and finally ending in the lower portio...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, DISTRACTION, HOT WEATHER Alberta, Rocky Mountains, CMC ValleyR.B. and B.T. were climbing in CMC valley on July 23,1994. At 1100 the weather was hot and R.B. was having trouble leading the first pitch of a two-pitch ...