Turret Peak. First ascent, August 20, 1938. E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard, F. S. North. A small rock summit projecting through the middle of the snowfield halfway between Pigeon Spire and Marmolata. To breakfast place at head of moraine on middle...
FALLING CORNICE, AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount BryceOn the afternoon of June 13, 1987, a party of four left the Columbia Icefields Centre for a series of climbs. The climbers were three captains (25, 24, 27) and a corporal (26)...
Baruntse. A commercial expedition of the German Alpine Club’s Mountain and Ski School of 16 climbers was led by Günther Härter. They climbed the normal southeast ridge. They made two camps above Base Camp. On three successive days 11 Europeans and...
Rock Stars: the World’s Best Free Climbers. Heinz Zak. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother: Munich, 1997. Distributed in the U.S. by John Barstow’s Photography. Profuse color photography. 216 pages. $59.95.WOW! The only thing more impressive than the resumes...
Canadian Rockies: Mt. Monchy and Mt. Hooge. Travelling up the valley of the Alexandra River, one may have glimpses of Mt. Hooge (10,550 ft.), set far back at the head of Amery Creek. This region has been little visited; and even Mt. Amery (10,943 ...
Cho Oyu. An international expedition was led by the Swiss Stefan Wörner. They followed close after the Poles on the new route up the southwest face of Cho Oyu. The expedition had originally been given a permit to attempt Cho Oyu via its east ridge...
ALLEN B. HAMILTON1920-1980Allen B. Hamilton was killed in a climbing accident at Devils Lake, Wisconsin, on May 10, 1980. Although A1 was 59 at the time of his tragic fall, he had been climbing for only eight years, having been introduced to the s...
Raksha Urai, Attempt. Hubert Fitzwallner led an Austro-German expedition that on October 20 reached a high point of just under 6000 meters on one of the summits of Rakshi Urai. The team climbed the east ridge to the east face in their attempt. (Hi...
Putha Hiunchuli Attempt. Our expedition members were Kevin O’Meara, Jack Bennet, Madeleine Simmons, Barbara Pollyea, Celso Frazao, Steve Tripp, Peter Muller, Lyna Anderson and I as leader. On April 9, we placed Base Camp at 15,000 feet above the K...
Alam Kuh, north wall, new route, second winter ascent of the face, and historical reporting. A joint team comprising members from two Iranian clubs (Arash Group and Damavand Club) led by Mohammad Mousavinejad, spent 16 days in February opening a n...
Noshaq, Noshaq to Gumbaz-e-Safed Traverse. We were 34 people: ten climbers conducting 24 of the guide Bellefon’s clients. On August 17 Françoise Algoud, André Calderer and Patrice de Bellefon climbed the west ridge of Gumbaz-e-Safed (22,310 feet) ...
Mount Kenya. Sixty years ago, Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman spent an amazing fortnight climbing in the Mount Kenya massif. They made the first ascents of Midget Peak, Point Pigott, Point Peter and either Sendeyo or Tereri. Their greatest achievemen...
Payu Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Joan Llasera, Franz Ludwig, Fredi Puig, Josep Raich, Jorci Selga, Joan Vinyoli and me. We placed Base Camp on July 23 at 3950 meters at the foot of Payu above the terminal moraine of the Baltoro Glacier...
Mount Dido, first ascent of South Ridge. During a SAR training exercise in February 2002, Thai Verzone and I had the opportunity to make the first ascent of the South Ridge (IV 5.9) of Mt. Dido (1,976m) in the Olympus Range of Victoria Land’s Dry ...
Jangyaraju and Copa. On July 18 Brian J. Gregory, John D. Stanley and I climbed Jangyaraju (18,619 feet). From camp above Collón on the northwest side below the snowline at 14,000 feet we reached the summit in nine hours with fair snow conditions....
FALL ON ROCK, FAILED TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESUtah, Little Cottonwood CanyonOn June 5, 1989, Larry Irvine (40) was climbing “Call It What You Please” (5.8) alone, using a self-belaying device c...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING ALONE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn October 19, Chris Biddle (30), a novice climber, lost his footing at 10,900-foot elevation while descending the Southside Route. Unable to self...
Everest Hang Gliding. We arrived in Base Camp on September 8, but because of confusion with the Chinese and the yak drivers, we didn’t establish Advance Base at 5500 meters until September 16. On the 19th, Camp I was placed at 6000 meters. We bega...
Coast Mountains of British Columbia, South of Bella Coola. If there is any doubt as to the accessibility of the area south of Bella Coola, the arrival of Houston’s 1955 convertible removed such doubt. The road is dirt for some 300 miles. If one do...
STRANDED, INEXPERIENCED NON-CLIMBERSNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington RavineOn May 24, 1991, two male students from the University of New Hampshire (one who was to graduate the very next day) hiked into Huntington Ravine on Mount Washing...