Ak-Su Valley, Various Ascents. An expedition made up of Davide Brambilla, Roberto Colombo, Stefano Elli, Federico Ferrari, Giovanni Isella and Massimiliano Pozzi, six alpinists between the ages of 23 and 29, sojourned in the valley of Ak-Su from J...
FitzRoy, Patagonia. The expedition led by Jorge Peterek had very bad luck. They intended to climb FitzRoy in February following the French route on the east face. After reaching the region in a spell of bad weather, not unusual in Patagonia, they ...
Mount Conness, “Flakes of Fury,” Tuolumne Meadows Area. On July 11 Chris Vandiver and I climbed a new free route on the right side of the 1200-foot-high southwest face of Mount Conness. “Flakes of Fury” was named for the consistently crumbling, lo...
Chomolhari. Captain Prem Chand, Instructor Dorje Lhatoo of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Santosh Arora and Sherpa Thondup made the second ascent of Chomolhari (23,930 feet) at 10:25 A.M. on April 23. This most sacred mountain of Bhutan, ...
National. The National Park Service has been keenly aware of the dangers to be encountered in the mountains, especially after the accidents in the Tetons last summer. Various suggestions have been offered: (1) trail markers to warn climbers of haz...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 5, James A. Guest (32) took a 30-foot lead fall on Pervertical Sanctuary (V 5.10) on the Diamond of Longs Peak. Guest impacted hard against both feet, r...
Nepalese Himalaya, Peak Bagging and Other Activity in the Post-Monsoon. This autumn’s weather seemed unremittingly bad for climbing, without the normal break of a couple of weeks of fine days and nights between the end of the monsoon rains/snowfal...
Dungeon Peak, East Face. Of the three principal Ramparts of Tonquin Valley, Oubliette, Dungeon and Redoubt, the face of the central one was the last to yield to the climber. Dennis Eberl and I made the route on August 30, beginning the day with a ...
North to the Bone, North Dome, Kings Canyon National Park. In August, Dick Leversee, Mike Meng and I climbed this 11-pitch route which starts left of the 1968 Herbert-Frost Route in vertical left-facing comers and goes up thin cracks near the arêt...
The Drop-Out. This is a short severe jam-crack at the base of the Leaning Tower ascended by Larry Young and me in August 1971. NCCS I, F10.Rick Sylvester
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUTNew Hampshire, Cannon CliffOn September 4, 1983, a climber (30) fractured his arm when he took a pendulum fall on the fifth pitch of Sam’s Swan Song (5.7). He and his ropemates got to within two pitches of the ground wh...
The Challenge, by Reinhold Messner, Translated by Noel Bowman and Audrey Salkeld. New York: Oxford University Press and London: Kay and Ward, 1977. 205 pages, photographs. Price: $12.50.Nineteen seventy-five was a banner year for Himalayan mountai...
Mt. Bosworth. The same party. Via S. E. face from motor road about 1 mile E. of Wapta camp. Up scree ledges and gullies; laborious but easy to bastion on E. ridge about 500 ft. below summit. Thence up steep cracks and rotten rock to summit (survey...
Escalante Canyon. Chuck Grossman and Craig Luebben climbed Texas Finger Crack (5.11). The route is 400 feet right of the Interiors route and ascends a prominent overhanging left-facing dihedral with an off-width crack.Eric Bjørnstad
Lowell Peak, West Ridge. Dave Hesleden and I visited the St. Elias Range planning to climb a route on either Pinnacle Peak (3,714m) or Lowell Peak (3,630m). We flew onto the Lowell Glacier from Kluane Lake on May 1 and made a camp at ca 2,000m, wh...
CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING, FATIGUEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 28,1985, Raymond Weinrich (30) and Charles Wolf (34) had climbed up to 5250meters on the West Buttress route on Mt. McKinley. They arrived about 2330 on their ninth day after leaving b...
P 6960, Latok Group. Hoping to climb a technical Himalayan peak using alpine techniques, we attempted P 6960 (22,835 feet), situated between the Ogre (Baintha Brakk) and Latok II, by a route up the northwest ridge. Chris Gilley, John Bennison, Ame...
Broad Peak. We started from Dassu with 52 porters on June 24 and got to Base Camp at 16,400 feet, west of Broad Peak, eight days later with 42 porters, having been able to send ten back who had been carrying food. We had no high-altitude porters a...
In late June, Rex Hoff and Gale Long climbed the left gully of the two prominent gullies which ascend from the cirque below the east face of Bomber Mountain to the southeast ridge of the mountain (NCCS II, F3). Having heard their optimistic report...
Turret Peak. First ascent, August 20, 1938. E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard, F. S. North. A small rock summit projecting through the middle of the snowfield halfway between Pigeon Spire and Marmolata. To breakfast place at head of moraine on middle...