FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION West Virginia, New River Gorge NRA, Kaymoor CliffOn June 19, 1994, a climber was “lead” climbing a 5.13s called “Bloodraid” at “The Hole” area of Kaymoor Cliffs. He had climbed over 20 feet and was just below a b...
Pico Colón and other peaks. An expedition of the Club Colom- biano de Andinismo made an ascent of Pico Colón (5775 meters, 18,947 feet on January 13, 1978. The summit group was composed of María Teresa and Carlos Gómez, Cecilia and Guillermo Berna...
Red Arch Mountain, Wigs In Space. In March, James Garrett, Chris Eng and I climbed a new route on Red Arch Mountain called Wigs In Space (IV 5.9 Al/Cl, nine pitches). The route climbs a flat-faced pillar on the southwest buttress of Red Arch Mount...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Three outstanding personalities of the mountaineering world visited us this year, and all gave marvelously narrated lectures to large audiences. Eric Shipton talked of his Patagonia Icecap explorations; Arnold Lunn spoke o...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, Monkey Face SpireOn May 22, Terry Mitchell (22) a Willamette University student and climbing instructor, set out to free-climb, without the aid of ropes or safety devices. Wit...
From the Black Forest to Tibet: One Woman’s Mountains. Trudy Healy. New York: Vantage Press, 1993. Illustrated by the author. 288 pages. $18.95.Trudy Healy has written a charming book:This climbing memoir has something of interest to every mountai...
The Balls. There are four main domes at the Balls, an area just north of Bass Lake and Oakhurst. All are immediately north of a dirt road leading to the area. From west to east, the domes have tentatively been named Ski Track Dome, Little Dome, Te...
Glacial Features of Jackson Hole, Wyoming, by Fritiof M. Fryxell. Rock Island, III. 1930. Augustana Library Publications, No. 13. $1.50.This monograph deals with the glaciers which covered the famous Jackson Hole in ancient times. It describes the...
JOHN EDGAR BREITENBACH1935–1963John Edgar Breitenbach was killed on March 23, 1963 in the Khumbu Icefall of Mount Everest by a collapsing wall of ice.Jake climbed throughout North America, made significant ascents in the Tetons, climbed McKinley b...
Colorado, La Plata Peak—On March 19, Karl Pfiffner (25), George Hurley (25), and Ron Bierstedt (25), climbed La Plata Peak (14,340 feet) by way of the Ellingwood Ridge. They turned back at about 13,000 feet because of the hour, and followed the ri...
Ohio, Practice Cliff near Dublin. The climb was a routine practice climb of about 40 feet in a limestone ravine at Dublin, Ohio. The weather was not a contributory factor, and the rock was dry. The pitch that Chet Hedden (21) chose on July 1 was a...
Easy-Heather Traverse, repeat with variations. In July 2001 I traversed the ridgeline of peaks from Easy Pass to Heather Pass along the north boundary of the south block of North Cascades National Park. I began at 6:06 a.m. from the Easy Pass trai...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HATBritish Columbia, Squamish, Little Smoke BluffsOn March 12, 1981, Clayton Maitland (19) was attempting to free solo a 40-foot-high thin crack called Flying Circus which is graded 5.10. He did not seem to ...
Sierra Nevada Natural History, An Illustrated Handbook by Tracy I. Storer and Robert L. Usinger. Berkeley and Los Angeles, California; University of California Press, 1963. 374 pages; 24 color plates. Price $4.95.A compact guide to the fauna and f...
Premier Group, Cariboo Mountains. Our party of six, Frances Chamberlin, Gertrude Smith, Dave Fisher, Wally Joyce, Gerry Neave and Roger Neave left Jasper on July 30, drove to Valemount, and then up the Canoe valley to the point where the logging r...
Mount Hunter, Attempt on South Face. (The author of this note was a recipient of a grant from the American Alpine Club’s Boyd N. Everett Jr. Climbing Fellowship Fund. — Editor.) Bill St. Lawrence, another companion and I attempted the south face o...
Pumori, Winter Ascent. A three-man South Korean expedition made the second winter ascent of Pumori via the south ridge. The expedition leader Nam Sun-Woo and Sherpa Lhakpa Gyalgen left Camp II at 21,150 feet, bivouacked at 22,300 feet and reached ...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The section continued its liaison work with the National Park Service participating in conferences aimed at liberalizing the winter climbing rules for Mount Rainier and serving on an advisory board for approving winter asc...
Mount Tiedemann, South Ridge, 1983. During five days in August 1983, Jim Nelson and I climbed the previously unascended south ridge of Tiedemann. We started up the Tiedemann-Asperity couloir one afternoon, and climbed the broken glacier to a bivou...
Noghor Zorn, Pegish II, Kotgaz Glacier Region, Eastern Hindu Kush. The Yokohama Sanryokai expedition was led by Miki Yanagishima and further composed of Nobuo Saito, Miss Tsuneko Kobayashi and Miss Midori Noji. After leaving Chitral on July 3, the...