Keeler Needle, The Strassman Route. Yup. Eight days. Constant work, no rests. And that’s why I ran out of food and water. Not to mention that this was completely unknown terrain. I am not 20 years old anymore.What would motivate a 46 year-old guy ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount FryattIn the early morning of August 29, a party of four left their bivouac site in the Geraldine Lakes drainage to climb the southwest face of Mount Fryatt (3661 meters). The night had been clear a...
Sierra Nevada Section. We had an active year hosting climbing, social, and conservation events for AAC members and the climbing community. In February we hosted our second Ice Climb-munity based out of the off-the-grid Lost Trail Lodge in Coldstre...
Cerro Fitz Roy, Royal Flush. In February, 1999, Peter Janschek and I did the third ascent of Royal Flush on Fitz Roy. After fixing six pitches, we stayed three days on the wall. Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold, who put up Royal Flush, ended their rou...
Lhotse Shar. Our expedition was composed of Guy Donzey, Dr. Xavier Bigard, Pierre Royer, Lionel Mailly, Yves Tedeschi, Eric Gramond, Philippe Renard, Robert Flematti, Daniel Semblanet, French, Nima Norbu, Nepalese, and Rajeev Sharma, Indian. We cl...
Peaks Above Fenrisgletscher, Schweizerland, East Greenland. Elziro Molin, Gastone Lorenzini and I as leader were helicoptered from Tasiilaq on June 26 to a 1050-meter-high Base Camp in an unexplored region near the head of the Fenrisgletscher just...
Masherbrum. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Tateshi Sudo made the second ascent of Masherbrum (7821 meters, 25,660 feet) by the south face, the route first climbed by Americans in 1960. They established Base Camp on July 3. The unsuccessful ...
Punta Numa, Hasta Luego, Zorro (So Long, Fox). (This report serves as an addendum to p. 303 of the AAJ 2002—Ed.) Our route on Punta Numa (5,179m), located in the Huantsan Group of the Quebrada Rurec, is dedicated to El Zorro, the bashful base camp...
Wyoming: (4) Tetons. On 28 July 1950 a party of six left the Garnet Canyon bivouac caves for the Exum ridge of the Grand Teton. They waited on the lower saddle while a storm passed by. In clearing weather they climbed the ridge, on three ropes. Tw...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn February 15, 1988, Brad Wade (28) took a seven to eight meter leader fall while climbing Enos Mills Glacier (5.10) on the Lost Horse Wall and sustained se...
Sunrise Wall. This is the prominent east-facing granite wall just above the trail to Nelson Lake, across the divide from Tuolomne Meadows. Karl Kaiyala, Reed Cundiff, and I made the first climb of the wall on October 13, 1974 after fixing the firs...
A GEOLOGIST IN THE ARCTICOur member, Fred H. Roots, is one of our very few professional geologists with Arctic, Antarctic, and high mountain experience. After studying at the University of British Columbia, summers’ field work with the Canadian go...
Pinnacle Peak. Harry Bowron, Hugh Ewing, Kirk Keogh and I were landed in early May on the glacier below the northeast face of Pinnacle Peak (12,184 feet). Our objective was the first ascent of the east ridge, which we climbed in two weeks, after f...
FALL ON SNOW, PLACED NO PROTECTION, EXPOSUREAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 16, 1990, the three member “Washington Square” party of Mary Koshuta, Michael Koshuta (33) and Stuart Jones (29) flew into the 2200 meter basecamp onMount McKinley. Their obj...
Chegem Valley, Ice Climbing Exploration. In February, an ice climbing expedition led by Alexander Kopylov made a reconnaissance of waterfall ice climbing possibilities in the Central Caucasus. It was the first time ice climbers had explored the Ch...
Nanga Parbat Attempts. There were two other expeditions to Nanga Parbat in 1987, both unsuccessful. Spaniards led by Javier Bermejo were on the Diamir Face and Japanese under the leadership of Hitoshi Tamada attempted the Rupal Face.
Annapurna IV. Our honorary member, Dr. R. Charles Evans, with Dennis P. Davis, supported by only four Sherpas, made the second ascent of Annapurna IV (24,688 feet) on May 5, 1957 from a Camp IV at 23,000 feet. Dr. Evans had been with Tilman’s part...
Mt. Everest in the Pre-Monsoon. An unprecedented total number of teams, 57, managed to send an unprecedented number of people, 133, to the 8850-meter top of the world in the premonsoon. The previous largest total of Everest summiters had been 120 ...
Annapurna Solo Attempt. South Tyrolean Reinhard Patscheider hoped to make a solo ascent of Annapurna by the northwest face, which he knew from having been a member of Messner’s successful expedition on it in the spring of 1985; Patscheider did not...
Ango. Felix Golling, German, Tom Hardy, American, Keith Woodford, Australian, and I approached Ango (16,811 feet) from the Quebrada Pajush and climbed the snow slopes on the northwest shoulder to reach its summit on August 13, 1974, ascending from...