Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Bashkargolo Zom, Ishporili Gol, Hindu Raj

Bashkargolo Zom, Ishporili Gol, Hindu Raj. The Keio University expedition, made up of Takeshi Fuanki, Tetsuro Kubota and Mitsuru Yatabe left Chitral on July 17 and traveled through the Golen Gol, Koghozi and Sachiokuh village to place its first Ba...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. A German expedition, led by Dr. Karl M. Herrlichkoffer and sponsored by the German Institute for Foreign Exploration, made a splendid reconnaissance of the 13,000-foot high Diamir (northwest) face of Nanga Parbat (26,660...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Rocky Mountains of Canada, Mt. des Poilus

Mt. des Poilus. Guidebook, page 113, for C. Kain read C. Klucker.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Cameroon, Zeuvu Tower, South Face, New Route

Zeuvu Tower, South Face, New Route. On December 3, our team met in Douala, the capital of Cameroon. We had come to climb in an obscure area called the Mandara Mountains that lay along Cameroon’s northern border with Nigeria. Our climbing team incl...


In Memoriam AAJ
Henry Lewis Stimson, 1867-1950

HENRY LEWIS STIMSON1867 -1950The public career of Henry Stimson is familiar. As a lawyer, U.S. District Attorney, unsuccessful candidate for the Governorship of New York, Secretary of War under Taft, Governor of the Philippines, Secretary of State...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Greenland

East Greenland. Our expedition, Derek Fordham, leader, Arthur Clarke, Dennis Kemp, David Morgan, Don Roscoe, Michael Tuson and I, planned to visit the Kristians Glacier region, east of Mount Forel, and continue exploration commenced by the British...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Yosemite National Park

California, Yosemite National Park. On 11 August, Larry Gee (15) and Mike Montgomery (15), along with three other boys and two girls, of about the same age, started at 11:00 a.m. to climb the talus slope just south and west of Le Conte Memorial. A...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, El Misti, Cordillera Volcánica and Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca

El Misti, Cordillera Volcánica and Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca. Dick Birnie of Dartmouth College and I spent a productive month in the Arequipa area, visiting El Misti and Ubinas. Our first climb of Misti (19,166 feet; probably first climbed b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Blockhouse Tower

Blockhouse Tower. In the latter part of July 1949, having a couple of days to squander, Ralph Turman and I set out for the fine granite spires of the Cashmere Crags. To our surprise and regret, mosquitoes were out in very great force. Nevertheless...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

The Mountaineers. The Seattle climbing program, under the leadership of Steven M. Cox, continues to address the related issues of access, conservation and growth management. Most significantly, in 1995 an optional conservation service requirement ...


In Memoriam AAJ
Robert C. Linck, 1905-1970

ROBERT C. LINCK 1905-1970The American Alpine Club has lost a devoted friend with the untimely death of Robert C. Linck on July 17, 1970, at the age of 64. He was born in Philadelphia on December 24, 1905, and graduated summa cum laude in engineeri...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Nevado Yerupaja Grande

Nevado Yerupaja Grande. Equadorian Santiago Quintero climbed the west face of NevadoYerupaja Grande (6634m). The main summit of Yerupaja had gone many years without an ascent until Santiago climbed it solo on July 4. The ascent and descent took hi...


Notes ANAM
The Second Northwest Mountaineering Conference

The Second Northwest Mountaineering Conference. Dedicated in large measure to the problem of mountain safety, and to search and rescue technique, the conference was held at Snoqualmie Pass in the State of Washington on 4-5 June 1949. The Washingto...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, East Africa

East Africa. The Iowa Mountaineers sponsored an expedition to East Africa in July and August. Thirty experienced climbers from ten states and two foreign countries participated (including five A AC members). In the Ruwenzori range in Uganda four m...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori

Pumori. Our expedition was composed of teacher-guides in the Ecole Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme at Chamonix: Yves Pollet-Villard, leader; Pierre Blanc, Jean Coudray, Yvon Masino, Georges Payot, Raymond Renaud and me as deputy-leader. From Kathm...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu from the South

Manaslu from the South. Our climbing party was composed of Janusz Kulis, leader, Aleksander Lwow, Krzysztof Pankiewicz, Ludwik Wilczynski and me, Poles, and Andreas Müller, Swiss. We set up Base Camp on September 13 at 4250 meters on the moraine o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Apolobamba, Various Ascents

Cordillera Apolobamba, various ascents. In July and August we did some climbs in a remote area of the Peruvian Apolobamba along the Peru-Bolivia border. Few climbers have visited this area. In 2004 Peter Butzhammer, Benjamin Reuter, Dr. Stepfan Fu...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Faulty Use of Crampons, Inadequate Protection, Washington, Mount Rainier, Emmons/Winthrop Glacier Route

LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons/Winthrop Glacier RouteOn June 3, Doug Thiel (40) and his two climbing partners summited Mount Rainier via the Emmons Glacier Route. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Hindu Kush, Afghanistan, Razer Valley

Razer Valley. The Kyushu Dental University expedition was composed of the leader Seishiro and five others. Starting from Kabul on July 1, they got to Base Camp in the Razer valley on the 12th. P 5523 (18,121 feet) and P 5623 (18,449 feet) were cli...


In Memoriam AAJ
Richard C. Houston, 1922-1982

RICHARD C. HOUSTON1922-1982A phrase used by Dick Houston over his many years climbing and trekking points to the essence of the man. It would be under adverse conditions—say, three-fog-bound in a two-man mountain tent with hostile elements closing...