Murder on the Matterhorn, by Glyn Carr. 244 pages. New York: E. P. Dutton & Company, Inc., 1953. Price, $2.50.The literature of mountaineering is replete with chronicles, biographies, histories, and statistics of accomplishment among the high ...
Aconcagua Tragedy. American David Battaglia fell dead only six feet from the summit of Aconcagua in mid March. Apparently he was suffering from pulmonary edema and yet pushed on nearly to the summit. This clearly demonstrates the need for anyone s...
FALL ON ICE, POOR POSITION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT,INEXPERIENCE New Hampshire, Meadows Cliffs—RumneyOn January 27, 1990, Mark Jacobson (23) and Zvi Cohen (22) were ice climbing in the Meadows area in Rumney, New Hampshire. They completed one climb, ...
Kang Guru. Our expedition was composed of Domenico Bidese, Imerio Dal Santo, Paolo Ghitti, Fiorenzo Pagiusco and me as leader. On October 4, we established Base Camp at Meta, a deserted village at 3600 meters at the foot of the mountain. We placed...
Mustagh Ata Ascent and Mustagh Ata North Attempt. The NOK Mustagh Ata International Friendship Expedition successfully climbed Mustagh Ata (7546 meters, 24,757 feet). On August 8, British Anthony and Victoria Willoughby and Frenchman Didier Gailla...
The Everest-Lhotse Adventure, by Albert Eggler. Translated by Hugh Merrick. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1957. 222 pages; ills.; maps. Price $4.50.For the members of the American Alpine Club the Swiss expedition that in 1956 climbed to the hig...
Monument Valley, The Stagecoach, Bandito Route. Carl Tobin, Dan Langmade, and I climbed the first ascent of the Bandito Route on the Stagecoach in Monument Valley in the summer. This fine, mostly-free four-pitch route climbed the east ridge of the...
Gyagar, Spiti. We made the first ascent of remote Gyagar (6400 meters, 20,998 feet), which lies near the junction of Tibet, Ladakh and Spiti. With 10 yaks, Ramkrishna Rao, Dolphy D’Mello, Vasant Dalvi, Shridhar Vaishampayam, high-altitude porter T...
Nez Perce, South Face. In July, 1957, Robert Toepel, Yvon Chouinard, and John Lowrie climbed a difficult route more or less directly up the south face of Nez Perce, keeping well to the east of the south ridge route of Merriam, Buckingham, and Clar...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AberdeenA party of four were starting up the bare lower ice slopes of the North Glacier on Mt. Aberdeen (3152 meters) on July 23, 1994. They were roped together with a spacing of ab...
Cholatse north face new route attempt. The Corean Alpine Club Cholatse Expedition led by Kang, Sung-woo departed from Seoul August 24. Team members were as follows: Shin, Dong-seok, Cho, Yu-dong, Ji, Jeong-deuk, Hong, Sung-woo, Hwang, In-sun, Kim,...
TirichMir, Norwegian Attempt. Forty-one years after their compatriot, Arne Naess, made the first ascent of Tirich Mir, Jon Gangdal, leader, Halfdan Egeberg, Torstein Skacke, Sven Gangdal, Erik Johannessen and Erik Hankø hoped to traverse both peak...
"Buffalo Head,” Northeast Face. The long ridge running north from Lizard Head and Camel Hump culminates in a beautiful bell-shaped formation between Washakie and South Fork Lakes. In search of an appropriate name for this strategic rock mass, I se...
Janhkuth, west face attempt. The main goal of the expedition was to make the first ascent of a 6,805m peak known as Janhkuth, north west of Chaukhamba. Only one other party has attempted to climb this mountain: the Austrians, Josef Jochler, and Ch...
Monte Pissis and Cerro Bonete Chico. On March 23, Greg Home climbed Pissis via the northwest slopes, a possible new route. Summit records of J. Reinhard, L. Gadenz et al. and S. Aarseth were found. Using a surveyor's hand level it appears the west...
Nanga Parbat. Five Spaniards climbed Nanga Parbat by the Kinshofer route on the Diamir side. After arriving at Base Camp on June 6, they established four high camps. On July 7, leader Pablo Barrenetxea and José Luis Clavel left Camp IV at 7300 met...
FALLING ROCK – TRIGGERED BY PARTY ABOVE, POOR POSITIONWashington, North Cascades, Forbidden Peak, West RidgeAbout 6:30 pm. on August 18, Jay Kullyman (42) and his partner had completed the rappels of the gully (climber’s) left of the standard coul...
Mount Roberts, East Face, Wind River Range. The mile-wide east face of Mount Roberts connects the nearly level summit erosion surface and the fringe of two glacial basins that drain into unnamed lakes above timber line. A reconnaissance several ye...
Ascent and Descent of the Echooka River. In early July, a successful attempt was made to reach the headwaters of the Echooka and descend the entire drainage to its confluence with the Sagavanigiktok. Crossing a high pass in relays from the Ivishak...
Monashee Range. Don Hubbard, Dick Crompton and I visited the Monashee Range between July 20 and August 6, exploring mountains between Mud Creek and Adams Creek and ascending six major and two minor peaks, apparently for the first time. A helicopte...