Mt. Ararat, northeast rib/face. On July 27, a group of climbers from five countries made an ascent of the northeast flank of Mt. Ararat (16,940') near the borders of Armenia and Iran in northeast Turkey. The team was comprised of Marcelo Buraglia ...
Noshaq, Rakhe Deras, Karposhte Yakhi. Noshaq (24,580 feet) was climbed from the northwest by Fräulein Cilly Hayder (21) and Oswald Steinlechner (19) and later by me solo. Robert Oberarzbacher (19) and I climbed Rakhe Deras (18,668 feet) and Fräule...
SouthGeorgia, Summary of More Important Ascents. In Freeman-Attwood’s excellent full report, a selected history of expeditions is given. Most will recall Captain Cook’s landing in 1775 and Shackleton’s crossing in 1916. The first mountaineering wa...
Great Trango Tower, North Face. After hiking up the Trango Glacier to below our original objective, the Uli Biaho Tower, and then watching rockfall continually hammering the only approach to the east face, we gave up without starting. Fortunately ...
Fenris, Orvin Fjella Mountains, first ascent. In December 2003 Mike Libecki and I were landed at an altitude of ca 1,200m close to Ulvetanna in the Orvin Fjella mountains of Dronning Maud Land. Base camp was established at 71° 51,264 S, 08° 22,552...
Huantsán, Attempt on East Ridge. An expedition led by J.P. Frésa- fond attempted the east ridge of Huantsán. Aside from the leader we were M. and M. Blassier, Y. Buttin, D. Ducoin, J. Erard, H. Frésafond, M.F. Gay, C. Jager, M. Pichot, U. Vollgart...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTESouth Dakota, Needles/Black HillsOn May 29, 1989, Cristina Cerrutti (31), Jim Bjork (29), Stephen Gillmore (30) and David McConnell (27) of Minnesota were climbing in the Ten Pins area. Cristina was leading Tricouni Nail (5....
FALLING ROCK, WEATHER, LATE STARTOregon, Mount Hood, Cooper SpurOn July 27, Dr. Gary Lee (55), an experienced climber, and his son Devin (20) finished the ascent of the Sunshine route in the early afternoon. They descended by the Cooper Spur route...
Everest Solo Attempt. With my support team of Ruth DeCew, Ed Webster and Kristina Kearney, I arrived at Base Camp at 17,000 feet on July 1. Advance Base Camp was established on July 8 at 20,400 feet on the East Rongbuk Glacier. Between July 12 and...
Ice River Region, Canadian Rockies. While doing geological field work in the region of Ice River, near Golden, British Columbia, in August 1956, I made the following solo ascents: (1) Zinc Mountain, via the ridge leading from the Manganese-Zinc co...
Annapurna I Tragedy. A strong Italian expedition was composed of Guido Machetto, leader, AAC member Alessandro Gogna, Carmelo Di Pietri, Gianni Calgagno, Miller Rava, Leo Cerruti, Carlo Zonta, Rino Prina, Angelo Nerli, Lorenzo Pomodoro and Vasco T...
AVALANCHENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Odell GullyOn February 25, 1991, a spindrift avalanche swept Thomas Smith (41) to his death. He and his partner, James Huntsmen, were near the top of Odell Gully when the accident occurred. Smith was knock...
AAC, New England Section. Chris Dame and friends began 1999 by attaining the summit of Chile’s El Novado Juncal (6110m) for the first American ascent. In June, Dave and Debbie Duncanson topped out on Denali via the West Buttress.A1 Hospers and Yuk...
Gurla Mandhata (Naimona’nyi), 1987. The Sino-Japanese Joint Friendship Expedition had as its chief leader (A. A.C. honorary member) Shi Zhan Chun, as deputy leaders Chinese Liu Dayi and Japanese Atsuo Saito and as climbing leader Japanese Katsutos...
Library Circulating PrivilegesCirculating privileges in the Library are available to members who are non-residents of the vicinity of New York. All applications for loan of books must be addressed to the American Alpine Club, 140 East 46th Street,...
Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park, Long’s Peak (2)—On October 2, Sidney Cohen (27) of Boulder, Colorado, was climbing Long’s Peak via the Cable route when he slipped on ice and fell down the 60-degree slab rock 150 feet, striking a ledge which...
Monument Basin, Various Ascents. With various partners, I was involved in the following ascents. Tutti-Frutti (two pitches, 5.10 C2), on the Pixie Stick (first ascent of tower), Monument Basin, with Paul Gagner, Donna Raupp, and Dave Goldstein. Th...
HAPE, CE, ASCENDING TOO FAST, DEHYDRATIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 31, 1993, the Denali ’93 Australian-Salzburg Expedition flew to the Southwest Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to begin their climb of the West Buttress. The six person expedition w...
Kwangde Shar, north face, second ascent to the summit, Extra Blue Sky. During the autumn British climbers Jon Bracey and Owen Samuel made the second ascent of Extra Blue Sky to the summit of ca 6100m Kwangde Shar (fourth ascent to its junction wit...
Great Trango Tower and Nameless Tower. Our expedition was made up of Masanori Hoshina, Satoshi Kimoto, Masahiro Kosaka, Takaaki Sasakura, Yoshitaro Arisaka and me as leader. We stayed at our Base Camp or above from the end of June until the middle...