Bhagirathi III, South Face, Les Temps Sauvages, and Other Activity. The expedition members had various goals. Alain Bruzy (leader), Christian Ravier, Frederic Salles, and Alain Miquel wanted to climb the Scottish Route, but altitude problems and d...
Dhaulagiri. The American Dhaulagiri Expedition got permission to climb the east face. The team, Matt and John Culberson, Colin Grissom and I, arrived at Base Camp on September 9. Advance Base was established at the col on September 21. We then got...
Wilson Glacier Headwall. Few unclimbed and untried routes remain on the popular Paradise side of Mount Rainier. Wilson Glacier heads in a steep-walled cirque at about 10,000 feet and then flows into Nis- qually Glacier below 8500 feet. Above the h...
Crowley Buttress, Eagle Eyes. In July 1973, Mark Gaynor, Ken Boche, and I climbed a new route up the west face of Crowley Buttress in the Nelson Lake area. The climb began in a chimney on the right. After 100 feet we exited from the chimney to the...
Vinson Massif, summary. The 2008-09 season was the busiest ever on Vinson (4,892m), with a total of 190 summits. The weather until mid-December was generally very good, but deteriorated thereafter, causing flight delays. However, flexible schedule...
In the spring of 1932 one of the two conquerors of the north face, Toni Schmid, was killed during a Whitsuntide excursion to the mountains. In an attempt to climb the northwest face of the Wiesbachhorn, on May 15th, he slipped while leading in the...
Makalu Attempt. Todd Burleson was accompanied on the northwest ridge of Makalu by Lhakpa Rita and Gopal Tamang. They established Base Camp, Camps I and II at April 1, 4 and 5 at 5300, 6000 and 6900 meters. The plan was to climb the rest of the mou...
LIGHTNING, POOR POSITION Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn June 25, 1988, Randall Vett (21) and Adam Hurst (25) hiked to the top of the Naked Edge intending to rappel down and climb the last two pitches. Bad weather had moved into the area by...
Celestial Peak, Southeast Ridge, Solo. On August 5, I made the second ascent of Celestial Peak by a new route, climbing the southeast ridge in three days. The climb was 26 rope-lengths. Seventeen rappels down the east face brought me back to the g...
Murder on the Matterhorn, by Glyn Carr. 244 pages. New York: E. P. Dutton & Company, Inc., 1953. Price, $2.50.The literature of mountaineering is replete with chronicles, biographies, histories, and statistics of accomplishment among the high ...
Aconcagua Tragedy. American David Battaglia fell dead only six feet from the summit of Aconcagua in mid March. Apparently he was suffering from pulmonary edema and yet pushed on nearly to the summit. This clearly demonstrates the need for anyone s...
FALL ON ICE, POOR POSITION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT,INEXPERIENCE New Hampshire, Meadows Cliffs—RumneyOn January 27, 1990, Mark Jacobson (23) and Zvi Cohen (22) were ice climbing in the Meadows area in Rumney, New Hampshire. They completed one climb, ...
Kang Guru. Our expedition was composed of Domenico Bidese, Imerio Dal Santo, Paolo Ghitti, Fiorenzo Pagiusco and me as leader. On October 4, we established Base Camp at Meta, a deserted village at 3600 meters at the foot of the mountain. We placed...
Mustagh Ata Ascent and Mustagh Ata North Attempt. The NOK Mustagh Ata International Friendship Expedition successfully climbed Mustagh Ata (7546 meters, 24,757 feet). On August 8, British Anthony and Victoria Willoughby and Frenchman Didier Gailla...
The Everest-Lhotse Adventure, by Albert Eggler. Translated by Hugh Merrick. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1957. 222 pages; ills.; maps. Price $4.50.For the members of the American Alpine Club the Swiss expedition that in 1956 climbed to the hig...
Monument Valley, The Stagecoach, Bandito Route. Carl Tobin, Dan Langmade, and I climbed the first ascent of the Bandito Route on the Stagecoach in Monument Valley in the summer. This fine, mostly-free four-pitch route climbed the east ridge of the...
Gyagar, Spiti. We made the first ascent of remote Gyagar (6400 meters, 20,998 feet), which lies near the junction of Tibet, Ladakh and Spiti. With 10 yaks, Ramkrishna Rao, Dolphy D’Mello, Vasant Dalvi, Shridhar Vaishampayam, high-altitude porter T...
Nez Perce, South Face. In July, 1957, Robert Toepel, Yvon Chouinard, and John Lowrie climbed a difficult route more or less directly up the south face of Nez Perce, keeping well to the east of the south ridge route of Merriam, Buckingham, and Clar...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AberdeenA party of four were starting up the bare lower ice slopes of the North Glacier on Mt. Aberdeen (3152 meters) on July 23, 1994. They were roped together with a spacing of ab...
Cholatse north face new route attempt. The Corean Alpine Club Cholatse Expedition led by Kang, Sung-woo departed from Seoul August 24. Team members were as follows: Shin, Dong-seok, Cho, Yu-dong, Ji, Jeong-deuk, Hong, Sung-woo, Hwang, In-sun, Kim,...