Oak Creek Canyon, Arizona Boneless Chicken Ranch. In early November, Dan Stih and I established a new wall route in Oak Creek Canyon, high in Counterfeiter Canyon, just north of Sedona. The route, Arizona Boneless Chicken Ranch (IV 5.11 A3+) climb...
Janak, first ascent. After their ascent of the 7,090m northeast summit of Pyramid Peak, north of Kangchenjunga, Slovenians Andrej Stremfelj and Rok Zalokar made the coveted first ascent of Janak (7,041m) via the southwest pillar. The 1,150m route,...
Zeus Tower, Moab. Last September, after an aerial reconnaissance and a spectacular dune-buggy ride, Fred Beckey and I arrived at our newly discovered desert spire. The climb of the thin 200-foot needle took two days, a few pitons between free move...
Oregon Section. The AAC was represented at the annual Smith Rock Detour, a two-day event at the end of September on private property adjacent to Smith Rock State Park. Action at the AAC booth included the screening of the AAC trailer video, answer...
Ninashanca, Northeast Ridge and Southeast Buttress. In June Arnold Larcher, Dieter Blümel, Adolf Praxmair and I climbed the northeast ridge of Ninashanca, more or less without problems. In August in a single day Egon Wurm and Hannes Condin made al...
Weasel Valley, Various Ascents. Louis-Philippe Blanchette and I spent six weeks in the Arctic from June 1 to July 11. We did more than 260 kilometers of load carrying in the Valley to move our camp. We took advantage of the dry weather of spring a...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. A.A.C. membership in the Rocky Mountain region increased in 1964 with the addition of several able young climbers sporting splendid records of ascents. Accounts of the most significant climbs in the area are detaile...
Nanda Devi Attempt. A 17-man Indo-Japanese expedition attempted Nanda Devi in the post-monsoon season. The leader was Tokichiro Morita. Details are lacking but it is believed that they had hoped to repeat the American route of 1976 but had to quit...
Jirishanca Norte, North Buttress, Second Ascent. Our team was made up of Dietmar Küng, Bernard Hangl, Arnold Larcher, Hannes Connes, Walter Hauser and me. On July 8 Küng, Hangl, Larcher and I completed the second ascent of the north buttress of Ji...
Yerupajá, West Face. The best climb our group did was the west face of Yerupajá. Climbing alpine-style with a haul bag, a quart of water and a rack of ice screws, Tom Pulaski and Geoff Conley from July 9 to 11 managed to do the 28 pitches of blue ...
Aguja Saint Exupéry, Patagonia. An Italian expedition of the Trieste Section of the Italian Alpine Club led by Gino Buscaini and composed of Lino Caudot, Silvia Metzeltin, Walter Romano and Silvano Sinigoi reached the FitzRoy group in early Februa...
Ak-Su Valley, Various Ascents. It was reported that Pat Littlejohn led a commercial trip to the Ak-Su region, operating a basecamp at the junction of the Ak-Su and Kara-Su valleys. In two weeks the expedition split into four small teams and climbe...
Nevado Juncal, South Peak, Central Chile. The Osaka Mountaineering Association expedition to central Chile was led by Eiichiro Hisano. Other members were Masando Izeki, Yasuo Asakawa, Kenko Matsumoto, Hikoshi Tomada, Masanori Nakado, Masahiro Suda...
“Ruby Peak,” South Arête. This is the unofficial name for the peak above Ruby Lake in the Little Lakes Valley region of the Eastern Sierra. The south arête drops 1200 feet from just left of the highest summit to a permanent snowfield, where the cl...
Cerro Catedral del Paine. On January 9, 1971 Chris Jackson, Guy Lee, Dave Nicol, Bob Shaw, Bob Smith and I of the British Patagonia Expedition made the first ascent of Cerro Catedral in the Paine group. We followed the west ridge and made the asce...
East. The Appalachian Mountain Club is in the process of organizing courses and talks on mountaineering problems. It is expected that rock climbing, and the special rescue problems involved, will receive particular attention.The Potomac Appalachia...
Karyolung, Winter Ascent. Another Japanese-Nepalese expedition climbed Karyolung, also by the northeast face, but this was done in the winter. Two Japanese, Akira Yamada and Katsuichi Tanaka, and two Nepalese members, Sherpas Ang Kami and Pemba Ts...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Eldorado State Park, Bastille RockOn July 27, Aaron Nydam (24) sustained a dislocated hip and cuts on his leg after falling about 25 feet while climbing with his brothers Scott and Trevor. His climbing ...
Nuptse, Southwest Ridge, Attempt. Hans Kammerlander (Italy) and his only other teammate, Maurizio Lutzenberger, attempted to be the first people ever to reach Nuptse’s slightly higher east summit (7804m). But they could manage to go no higher alon...
Mount Wilson, Southwest Face. Gray Thompson and I spent a late August evening and all the ensuing day climbing a winding route through limestone cliff bands on Wilson’s southwest face. Route finding was the major problem, as we had only one short ...