Wells Peak, East Face. This face, north of The Smokestack and Adams Rib, resembles Mount Whitney in miniature. Reconnaissance located a good start and some very continuous face climbing. The final ascent was made on February 23 and 24, 1974, by Ja...
Spitzbergen. There was a number of expeditions active in the mountains of Spitzbergen in the summer of 1955. An Austrian group from the Edelweiss Club in Salzburg under Dr. Walter Frauenberger of Nanga Parbat fame traveled as far as Bethasnia Bay ...
Mount Kennedy and Mount Southesk. Two years ago when Parks Canada took over the area around Mount Kennedy, and Parks Warden Service set up a Public Safety Programme. The first step was to purchase a complete set of mountain rescue equipment as wel...
UNITED STATES CORNICE COLLAPSEAlaska, Mount DeceptionOn April 2, 1990, Jim Bouchard (34) and Gary Donofrio (27) departed the Parks Highway for their approach to climb Mount Deception at 3600 meters. On April 7, they made it to their 1730 meter bas...
Mt. Dalar, North Face, and Traverse. From August 9-13, a team led by V. Ivanov, together with I. Afanasiev, I. Bondarenko, and S. Egorin, all from the North Osetia Rescue Service Team, climbed M. Warburton’s 1976 North Buttress route (6A) on the n...
Nanga Parbat, Southwest Ridge (Kinshofer or Schell Route). We set up the following camps: Base Camp, and Camps I, II, III, IV and V at 4500, 5000, 6180, 6800, 7200 and 7300 meters on July 28, 29, August 5, 7, 9 and 11. Camp IV was just below the B...
Jugal Himal. An expedition of the Yorkshire Ramblers Club to the Jugal Himal (23,240 feet) ended in tragedy. On reconnaissance from Camp IV at 20,000 feet, ahead of the other four members of the group, on April 30 the leader Captain Crosby Fox, Ge...
Manaslu, Northeast Face, First Solo Ascent. I left France on April 10. I diligently prepared my equipment in Kathmandu from the 11th to the 14th, and then, for my first time on a Himalayan expedition, I used a helicopter. This indulgence got me qu...
Annapurna and Everest Solo Attempts. I made an unsuccessful attempt on the south face of Annapurna, which reached 5800 meters on April 6, but there was too much snow, which hid dangerous crevasses, and falling séracs. I then got to 7800 meters on ...
Uruashraju. On July 27 Joachim Packa, David Ciochetti, Dan Langmade, Curry Slaymaker and I made the second ascent of Uruashraju via the unclimbed south ridge. Domingos Giobbi describes the peak in A.A.J., 1967, pp. 386 as “tent-shaped with west, n...
Tribhuj. This small but fine peak, southwest of Trisul, was climbed by Britons Andrew Brett and Alexander Laird. They followed the southwest ridge to the summit (5055 meters, 16,584 feet) on May 17.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club
Ama Dablam in the Post-Monsoon. Ten teams went to Ama Dablam (6812 meters, 22,349 feet), nine of them to the standard southwest-ridge route, and there were the usual problems of coordinating climbers’ movements on the narrow ridge with little spac...
Grandes Jorcisses ; North Face. The tremendous Mer-de-Glace face of this mountain was finally conquered this past summer, after a siege lasting many years.“On the 28th and 29th of June two German climbers, Rudolf Peters and Martin Meier, accomplis...
Longs Peak, Diamond and, Twin Owls. Chris Reevesly and Bill Rouse took advantage of a good day in early July to make the second ascent, but the first all free one, of the Obelisk, a long vertical white crack at the left edge of the Yellow Wall on ...
M6, North Face. We placed our Base Camp at 13,500 feet in the Mondaras valley off the Darya Qadzi Deh. Our High Camp was established on a rock rognon at 16,800 feet. Howard Lancashire and I climbed M6 (20,134 feet) by its impressive north face. In...
Mount Bona, 1977. The first of the two Japanese expeditions to climb Bona in 1977 was led by Noburo Fujimoto. (See also A.A.J., 1978, p. 519.) Nine men and a woman were landed on the Klutlan Glacier on April 19. All members reached the summit on M...
“Gnomen Spire,” Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. In mid May Kjell Swedin and I flew to the Cool Sack Glacier, hoping to make the first ascent of P 8500, the satellite peak just west of Kichatna Spire. On our first attempt we climbed a 1700-fo...
EXPOSURE, FROSTBITE, BAD WEATHER, INEXPERIENCE, PANIC—California, Piute Pass. Steve Sheppard (22) and Jeri Ann Grassmeuch (22) were trying to complete a trip from North Lake to South Lake on January 3 when bad weather caused them to turn back. The...
Paine Group, North Tower. A group from the Club Andino Córdoba led by Federico Laje attempted the North Tower, but was prevented by bad weather from getting above the Col Bich.
The Crown (Huang Guan Feng). A Japanese Alpine Club expedition of 14 members led by me climbed the Crown (7295 meters, 23,934 feet), 40 kilometers northwest of K2, after five previous unsuccessful expeditions, two of which had ended in tragedy. We...