INADEQUATE PROTECTION AND COMMUNICATION California, TahquitzWhile belaying the leader at Tahquitz, I held a 30-foot fall that should really have been only a ten-foot slide. The extra rope footage was supplied when two chocks, placed after a traver...
Birch Mountain, Bardini Route. This climb is hidden in plain sight. You can study the north face of Birch Mountain (13,665') from downtown Big Pine. But it took a decade of driving up to guide in the Palisades before I began to notice the huge dar...
Diran Peak, South Face, Attempt and Ascent. Shigero Aoki led a 15-member team that attempted the south face of Diran Peak (7257 m). The face proved unclimbable due to bad weather and constant avalanches. Two members, Iguchi and Hiruta, were able t...
Scotland the Brave and Aussie Peak, First Ascents, and Arctic First Born, New Route. An expedition entitled “Greenland 2000: Tilman in a New Millennium” sailed from Scotland to the west coast of Greenland and climbed two peaks and a big wall from ...
In late May Andy Stern and I skied, walked, and swam into McGinnis to attempt the north ridge route’s second first ascent. But we had to take down my Bibler and bail as the wind whipped up my arse hole, while I screamed at Andy to get all his stuf...
DUDLEY TYLER SMITH1902-1994Dudley Tyler Smith was born in Denver on February 28, 1902 and died there on May 26, 1994. He became a member of the American Alpine Club in 1928 and in 1920 joined the Colorado Mountain Club after being a guest on a clu...
Fairweather and St. Elias mountains traverse. On April 25 a group of four acquaintances- cum-friends were shuttled across Haines inlet in an outboard motor boat. At Davidson Point, just across the water from Haines, Kari Medig, Merrie-Beth Board, ...
Ascent of the Natural Bridge, Zion National MonumentFRED D. AYRESIn Utah, one natural bridge, more or less, makes little difference. The state already has within its boundaries most of the known bridges and arches of any consequence in the United ...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Outstanding among the numerous 1958 mountaineering accomplishments were an ascent of Mount McKinley and a 100-mile ski traverse of the Purcell and Selkirk ranges in British Columbia. Jake Breitenbach and Dave Dingman...
SITTING next to our big tent we were unlikely candidates for the Alpine Hall of Fame. Jeff Lowe looked quite natty in a white shirt, glacier hat and army-surplus woolies, and kept us amused with his Don Juan fantasies and ribald jokes. George Lo...
Mooses Tooth, Swamp Donkey Express. Zack Smith, Renan Ozturk, and I flew in to the Ruth Gorge on May 17, psyched to find perfect conditions: hard freezes at night but warm enough daytime temps to comfortably wear rock shoes. After a day to pack an...
Lost Feather Pinnacle, Back at Bob's. From August 11-20 Duncan Burke and I enjoyed excellent weather and conditions in Bugaboo Provincial Park. Driving north from Colorado, our main goal was to climb a new route in The Pigeon Feathers group, locat...
TABLE III Numbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved*1951-81USA1959-81CAN.1982USA1982CAN.TerrainRock17602207516Snow10341875925Ice702396River10200Unknown10401*Ascent or Descent:Ascent14342248926Descent11301414718Unknown2072844Immediate CauseFall or...
OFF ROUTE–UNFAMILIAR WITH DESCENT, WEATHERWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn June 11 around 0100, Swis Stockton and Michael Feldman left the Lupine Meadows trailhead with the intention of climbing the Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton i...
Pamiagdluk Island, Dinas Not, The Jams, the Jams; Dinas Not, Niviarsiaraq Qaamasunik Nujalit. In 2005 we repeated routes on the 1,340m Baron and added two new routes to Dinas Not, a 100- 110m crag on the slopes below the Baron, closer to the fjord...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount BucknerOn July 21, 1984, a group of eight climbers from The Mountaineers began an outing whose principal objective was an ascent of the North Face of Mount Buckner (3311 meters) in the Cascade Pass area of North Casca...
FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATEDOregon, North SisterDr. Bruce Shively (55) slipped on the steep friable volcanic rock slopes below the summit of North Sister and fell 600 vertical feet to his death, down one of three possible chutes. Shively was last...
MAX HARRISON DEMOREST 1910-1942Lt. Max Harrison Demorest, glaciologist and Fellow of the Geological Society of America, died on November 30th, 1942, in Northern Greenland when the motor sled he was riding, on a specialized Army assignment, broke t...
Climbing and Hiking in the Wind River Mountains. Joe Kelsey. Sierra Club, San Francisco, 1980. 400 pages, illustrations, diagrams, maps, bibliography. $8.95.Joe Kelsey, the author of this book, is perhaps better known as a humorist and the talente...
Mt. Vinson, Scientific Studies. In combination with the climbing and filming objectives of our expedition (see above), we undertook a glaciological study of snow accumulation in the Sentinel Range and also used a high-precision Global Positioning ...