Everest Summer Attempt. Nick Banks and then Iain Peter from the UK led five Britons, a New Zealander, an Australian and a Dane on the North Col route of Everest. The leader, one member and three Sherpas reached a high point of 8200 meters on July ...
Voyager Rock, Space Probe. This is the first dome east of the southern portion of Courtright Reservoir. A multi-crowned pine below the south face is near the start of the route Alan Swanson and I climbed. After a short third-class section, we clim...
Washington, Mox Peak. On August 20, Warren B. Spickard (43), R. Duke Watson, and Phil E. Sharpe were descending after the second ascent of Mox Peak. They were on a moderately steep pitch. Watson had a solidsitting hip belay on Spickard as he climb...
Dhaulagiri I and Annapurna I, Solo Ascents. For two months, I made a trip into loneliness as I lived in deep contact with the mountains with no other communication than with my small team (sirdar, cook) in Base Camp. It was a trip with adrenaline....
Perdition Peak, Northeast Rib. The most dramatic line on Backbone ridge, this spine shoots arrow-straight from the Perdition Glacier to the summit of Perdition Peak. My wife, Stephanie Subak, and I climbed it on July 14. We took the Sibley Creek a...
British Columbia, Coast Range, Tantalus Range, Mt. Alpha. Four climbers were descending a 100-foot snow slope at 6,500 feet ending in talus during an Alpine Club of Canada trip 4 August. Three completed standing glissades unroped in the soft snow....
FALL ON ROCK, LACK OF CONCENTRATION, NO HARD HATOntario, Bon Echo Provincial ParkAt approximately 4 p.m. on August 1, 1982, Robert Jones (41) was leading the third pitch on One Pine Route. He was roped in with four other climbers. He slipped on th...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATArkansas, Sam's ThroneOn March 10, a climber (36) was looking at a climb from the top of a route, but he was not tied in. He fell 50 to 60 feet and suffered major head injuries, fractures, and other ...
Mount Whitney. This long route, The Hairline, ascends between the Great Book and the Direct East Face. It starts with 5.10 face climbing (bolt protected) to attain cracks which don’t quite reach the ground. It crosses the East Face route just belo...
Disteghil Sar, Attempt and Tragedy. It was reported that two Britons and a New Zealander died in an avalanche high on the 25,869-foot Disteghil Sar in August. A Pakistani official in the northern town of Gilgit said the climbers, whom he identifie...
Day Needle, new variation and Whitney Cirque linkup. In late July Jake “The Snake” Whitaker and I climbed a new direct free variation to the East Face of Day Needle in the Mt. Whitney cirque. Prior to our climb I had already learned about Jake’s h...
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Jasper National Park, Throne MountainOn August 16, an experienced party of five were climbing the notched northeast ridge of Throne Mountain. After reaching the summit, the group was descending, mostly unroped, i...
Oregon Section. Keith Daellenbach along with Kellie Rice were the super-achievers of the Oregon Section on the Madrone Wall Preservation Project. One mile south of the City of Damascus along the Clackamas River Bluffs resides an amazing civic trea...
Cerro Stanhardt, Leonardo Da Vinci. On the west face of Cerro Stanhardt, Frenchmen David Autheman and Antoine Noury attempted a new route to the summit of a pillar attached to the face, which they named “Punta Shanti.” They reached a point 50 mete...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. The members of our expedition were Filip Bence, Janez Benkovic, Vincenc Bercic, Tomo Cesen, Milan Gladek, Silvo Karo, Radivoj Nadvešnik, Janez Plevel, Marko Prezelj, Andrej Štremfelj, Janez Šušteršic, Dr. Peter Panjtar and I a...
Milne Island, Scorseby Sound, East Greenland. From July 29 to August 18, Michael Garrett, Pamela Glanville, Margaret Graham, Philip Nixon, John Shrewsbury, Belinda Swift, Christopher Whitford and I explored the area around the Korridoren Glacier a...
Angelus. The neighboring peak to K2, the Angelus (6885 meters, 22,589 feet), was climbed for the first time by Michel Afanassieff and the Swiss priest Claude Stucki on August 9. From their 16,400-foot Base Camp, they climbed to the base of the sou...
Milpocraju to summit ridge, Goulotte Gau Txoni. Kepa Escribano from Spain and Cristina Prieto from Chile climbed a new route on the west face of the 5,310m north summit of Milpocraju, located just south of the spectacular, well-known Nevado Cayesh...
Wyoming: (3) Tetons. During the summer of 1950 two men in their early twenties climbed Teewinot by the normal route, east face. On the descent they reached the upper snow field at 7:00 P.M., and one of them, against the pleas of his companion, sta...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn February 13, 1988, Jeff Smith (23) took a ten meter fall while attempting to climb “The Blob” (5.7). An improperly placed piece of protection failed to arrest his fall...