Himalaje-Karakorum, by Tom Piaty, ed. Warsaw, Poland, Wiedza Powszechna, 1974. 472 pages of text, with 376 pictures. Hardbound. 140 zlotys ($7.60).I am quick to declare that I know no Polish, but the language is not an obstacle to understanding an...
Peak 41, south summit (6,575m), west spur, attempt. On September 30 Andy Houseman and I flew to Lukla. Four days later we established base camp in a hidden valley below Peak 41 (6,648m), 45 minutes walk from the small village of Khare in the Hinku...
Climbing Rope Tests. This investigation originated from my personal curiosity regarding the advantages of the various types of ropes available and the special attributes of each. For instance, was there a rope in existence suitable for climbing wh...
Cloudveil Dome, South Face. This prominent face has yielded three new routes. The first, Cut Loose, was climbed on August 2, 1977 by Yvon Chouinard and Rick Black on the right portion of the face. The start was about 30 feet to the right (east) of...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF PITON AND NUT Colorado, Mt. RoyalOn Saturday, June 23, the Summit County Rescue Group (SCRG) and the Frisco Fire Department spent a long afternoon rescuing Bob French (47) from a rock face near Frisco.French, a Breckenridg...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT–INADEQUATECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 6, David Craig (32) first met and climbed with a Japanese climber named Tomo (last name unknown). Tomo was experienced and competent. On Sunday they climbed at t...
K2, Ascent and Tragedy. In late May, the American team of Rob Slater, Scott Johnston, Jack Roberts, Richard Celsi and Michael Toubbeh arrived in Pakistan and proceeded via the Karakoram highway to Skardu and then on to K2 Base Camp. The remainder ...
Nupchu. Nupchu (23,059 feet) is located 18 miles northwest of Kangchenjunga on the border of Nepal and Tibet. The first but unsuccessful attempt to climb the peak was made by a Swiss expedition in 1949 from the Tibetan side. (See Berge der Welt 19...
Wyoming—Wind River RangeSquare Top, East Face. The east face of Square Top soars some 3800 feet above the Green River. On September 2 Jerry Fuller and I packed heavy loads along the valley trail and then up a game path climbing steeply on a bushy ...
EquipmentModified Wide-Angle Pitons. Wide-angle pitons have been used to some extent in cracks up to two inches wide1—chiefly, owing to defects in design, in places where only minimum strength has been required. These wide-angle pitons were pointe...
“Pioneer Peaks,” W. Hamill (Toby) Group, Purcells. On August 2, 1969 Paul (4), Bruce and Freda Beck; Suzanne (10), David (12) and Hugh Ector; Kara (3 months), Curt and Gretchen Wagner got a ride from Argenta up an access road to the 6600-foot pass...
CALIFORNIA HIMALAYAN EXPEDITIONWILLIAM W. DUNMIRE AND WILLIAM UNSOELDPart I: Preparations and the March to Base CampFive years ago the possibility of organizing an expedition to the Himalaya was but the remotest of dreams to the group of Californi...
Medical Aspects of the Austrian Alpine Club Expedition to Mount Everest. On May 9 while I was ascending, I met Messner and Habeler, the two “oxygenless” climbers, twenty-two hours after their success. Both were tired but otherwise on physical exam...
La Mascara, Cuerno Principal, Cuerno Este, and Cuerno Norte, Various Activity. In mid- January, 1998, Darrell Gschwendtner, John Merriam, Jonathan Copp, and I traveled to Chilean Patagonia with hopes of climbing new routes. Following an aborted at...
Attempt on Mount Blackburn. Ascent of Atna Peak. The Toyo University Expedition from Tokyo was led by Hiroichi Yamazaki and further composed of Hiromichi Tanabe, Katsumasa Aoki, Takehisa Shiono, Osamu Iwatake, Kiyoshige Seiryu and Kyoji Matsunaga....
Baruntse, East Ridge. Baruntse had been climbed by the Hillary expedition in 1954 by its south ridge. It was unsuccessfully attempted by French and Japanese in 1964. We made the second ascent by a new route, the east ridge. We flew to Tumlingtar a...
Cordillera Real, Various Activity. From July 5-July 19, a group of students and faculty from Appalachian State University’s Geography Department engaged in field studies and research on the Altiplano and in the northern Cordillera Real in Bolivia....
Lhotse. The world’s fourth-highest peak, 27,923-foot Lhotse, was first climbed by Swiss in 1956 and then by Germans in 1977. Our Austrian expedition was the third to ascend this difficult 8000er. Led by Erich Vanis, we were Hans Ladreiter, Ivan Ex...
Cerro Gorra Blanca and Volcán Lautaro, Patagonia. The Slovene-Argentine Expedition of the Club Andino Esloveno, Sección Buenos Aires, was led by Peter Skvarca and included Augusto Mengelle, Luciano Pera and Dr. Antonio Luis Beramendi. They set up ...
Mt. Barille, Northeast Pillar, Baked Alaskan. Eighteen-year-old Scotty Thelen and I left Valdez at noon on June 29 and raced to Talkeetna to catch Talkeetna Air Taxi into the Ruth Mountain House. The whole state had had a month of predominately cl...