CALIFORNIA HIMALAYAN EXPEDITIONWILLIAM W. DUNMIRE AND WILLIAM UNSOELDPart I: Preparations and the March to Base CampFive years ago the possibility of organizing an expedition to the Himalaya was but the remotest of dreams to the group of Californi...
Medical Aspects of the Austrian Alpine Club Expedition to Mount Everest. On May 9 while I was ascending, I met Messner and Habeler, the two “oxygenless” climbers, twenty-two hours after their success. Both were tired but otherwise on physical exam...
La Mascara, Cuerno Principal, Cuerno Este, and Cuerno Norte, Various Activity. In mid- January, 1998, Darrell Gschwendtner, John Merriam, Jonathan Copp, and I traveled to Chilean Patagonia with hopes of climbing new routes. Following an aborted at...
Attempt on Mount Blackburn. Ascent of Atna Peak. The Toyo University Expedition from Tokyo was led by Hiroichi Yamazaki and further composed of Hiromichi Tanabe, Katsumasa Aoki, Takehisa Shiono, Osamu Iwatake, Kiyoshige Seiryu and Kyoji Matsunaga....
Baruntse, East Ridge. Baruntse had been climbed by the Hillary expedition in 1954 by its south ridge. It was unsuccessfully attempted by French and Japanese in 1964. We made the second ascent by a new route, the east ridge. We flew to Tumlingtar a...
Cordillera Real, Various Activity. From July 5-July 19, a group of students and faculty from Appalachian State University’s Geography Department engaged in field studies and research on the Altiplano and in the northern Cordillera Real in Bolivia....
Lhotse. The world’s fourth-highest peak, 27,923-foot Lhotse, was first climbed by Swiss in 1956 and then by Germans in 1977. Our Austrian expedition was the third to ascend this difficult 8000er. Led by Erich Vanis, we were Hans Ladreiter, Ivan Ex...
Cerro Gorra Blanca and Volcán Lautaro, Patagonia. The Slovene-Argentine Expedition of the Club Andino Esloveno, Sección Buenos Aires, was led by Peter Skvarca and included Augusto Mengelle, Luciano Pera and Dr. Antonio Luis Beramendi. They set up ...
Mt. Barille, Northeast Pillar, Baked Alaskan. Eighteen-year-old Scotty Thelen and I left Valdez at noon on June 29 and raced to Talkeetna to catch Talkeetna Air Taxi into the Ruth Mountain House. The whole state had had a month of predominately cl...
As noted elsewhere in this Journal, Section member Mark Richey, with Steve Swenson and Doug Chabot, achieved the summit of Latok II (7,108m) in Pakistan in August, for the first time in alpine style. On a somewhat lesser scale, Nancy Savickas clim...
Last July Andy Sterns of Fairbanks and I made several ascents on a remote and spectacular chunk of granitic gneiss at the Glacial Lake headwaters. We flew in from Nome with Ben Rowe in a Bering Air helicopter to a base camp in the spectacular west...
Mount Blum. Distance and steep forest approaches have severely limited the ascents of this peak. On July 31, my brother Gordie, Steve Ollila, Eric Thorson and I climbed the north glacier and couloir. From a camp near the 5900-foot lake northwest o...
Gary Hemming: The Beatnik of the Alps. Mirella Tenderini (trans. Susan Hodgkiss). The Ernest Press, Glasgow, Scotland, 1995. 195 pages. £11.95.As the sub-title suggests, Gary Hemming was a climber of the 1950s and ’60s — my generation. He climbed ...
Mir Samir. Our expedition consisted of Hiroyuki Maruko, Yukitoshi Sato and myself as leader. Our first hope was to get permission from the Pakistani government for the Karakoram but we failed because of the sudden warfare between Pakistan and Indi...
Classic Rock, Compiled by Ken Wilson. New York: Granada Publishing Company, 1978. Many photographs and topos. Price $19.95.Classic Rock is a large-format book which chronicles fifty-five British rock climbs, none more difficult than Hard Severe (a...
Tronador. This peak was the object of a number of determined assaults by both German and Italian parties this past summer. On January 29th Hermann Claussen climbing alone left his bivouac at 4 a.m. and reached the summit at 10 p.m., spending the n...
FALL ON SNOWWyoming, TetonsAfter climbing Mount Owen via the Northeast Snowfields, Jeff Selleck (26) and his climbing partner, John Richardson, began descending the Koven Couloir. Forty- five meters into the couloir, Selleck slipped out of a plung...
Karakoram The Ascent of Gasherbrum IV, by Fosco Maraini. Translated from the Italian by James Cadell. New York: The Viking Press, 1961. 320 pages, 108 illustrations (many in color) on 80 full pages, maps and sketches. Price $10.00.This is a splend...
Gongga Shan Tragedy. 1980 was the year China opened to American mountaineering: there were three expeditions, and a number of reconnaissances for future expeditions. In addition to the successful ski ascent of Mustagh Ata, the People’s Republic ga...
Mt. MOG, Owens-Walsh, and Mt. Bell, Zeitgeist. Alpine climbing—or perhaps “alpine crag- ging”—on lesser known, lower elevation peaks (but still with decent-sized faces) is catching on in the Canadian Rockies. This winter I enjoyed a number of grea...