Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Mount Owen, Serendipity Arête

Mount Owen, Serendipity Arête. A new route on the west side of Mount Owen was climbed on August 8 by Sterling Neale, Rick Medrick, Frank Magary, and Bill Buckingham. The route lies on a steep ridge or corner which runs diagonally across Mount Owen...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Faulty Use of Crampons—Failed to Put Them on, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Collier

FALL ON ROCK, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS—FAILED TO PUT THEM ON Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount CollierTwo climbers, R.H. and H.B. (50), were descending Mt. Collier (3216 meters) on July 25, 1994, roped together. H.B. belayed R.H. across a 40-degree sn...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parabat, Rupal Face, Winter Attempt 1990-91

Nanga Parbat, RupalFace, Winter Attempt 1990-91. Our joint Anglo-Polish expedition flew to Gilgit on November 24, 1990. We were leader Maciej Berbeka, Jacek Berbeka, Andrzej Osika, Andrzej Samolewicz, Wojciech Szczerba, Zbigniew Terlikowski, Dr. K...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States,Wyoming, Mount Hooker, North Face, New Route, Wind River Range

Mount Hooker, North Face, New Route, Wind River Range. The 2000-foot north face of Mount Hooker had only one recorded ascent until last summer, the Robbins-Raymond-McCracken ascent of 1964. Hooman Aprin and I made an audacious winter attempt in 19...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Mt. Prindle, McCloud

Mt. Prindle, McCloud. Around July 4, Ian McRae and I climbed a five-pitch (200-foot rope) route to the right of The Fleecing of America. The route, McCloud (5.9 A2), was a combina- tion of mixed and free. The climb was typical of the rock at Mt. P...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Other Canadian Ranges, Mount Louis, South Face

Mount Louis, South Face. Jerry Fuller and I made a new route on the south face of Mount Louis, starting directly above the saddle between Louis and Edith. The first leads followed a large gully system, where we had difficult aid and 5th class clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Colombia, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Pico Ojeda, Northeast Face

Pico Ojeda, Northeast Face, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Jim Wells and I made the first ascent of this face from January 13 to 15, 1978, including the approach. The face seems to be the largest in the range, vertically higher and steeper than the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Contiguous United States, Utah, Zion, Temple of Sinawava, The Not So Secret Show

Temple of Sinawava, The Not So Secret Show. In October, Todd Stephens, Tyler Philips, and Troy Anderson climbed The Not So Secret Show (IV+ 5.10 A3, seven pitches) on the Temple of Sinawava. Descent was made by hiking the ridge west toward Angel’s...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Membership in the section increased during the year to 68, a new record. Four meetings were held, and the following excellent programs were given: the astonishing ascent and tragic descent of the east face of Mount H...


Book Reviews AAJ
Yosemite Valley, an Intimate Guide

Yosemite Valley, an Intimate Guide, by Ansel F. Hall, chief naturalist of the National Park Service. National Park Publishing House, Berkeley, California.A similar book to the preceding, and a very comprehensive one. Any one digesting all the mate...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Numbur

Numbur. A New Zealand expedition led by Peter McInally climbed Numbur (6954 meters, 22,815 feet) via the southwest ridge, the route of the French in 1981. They had an advance base and two high camps. On March 29 Mclnally, Rob Hall, Bill King, Stev...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, P 5334, Gabral Glacier, Swat Kohistan

P 5334, Gabral Glacier, Swat Kohistan. The Gifu Mountaineering Association expedition was made up of Masaru Tsuzuki, Masanori Sujita, Yoshihiro Iwasa, Harumi Hibino and Ryozai Nakahara. From Kalam they went to establish Base Camp on June 2 at the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Rocky Mountains of Canada, President Pass

President Pass. In the Guidebook, page 114, the elevation of 8899 ft. is incorrect and should be 9469 ft.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Pisco

Pisco, Cordillera Blanca. On July 19 Rolando Cabezas and Luis Campos, Chileans, and Felipe Palominos, Peruvian, reached the summit of Pisco (c. 19,000 feet) by the normal route. The expedition of the Chilean Club Nacional de Andinismo y Ski was le...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Tupper, West Buttress of South Face

Mount Tupper, West Buttress of South Face. After several abortive attempts on the south face, Glen Spillman and I climbed the west buttress, a fine climb on sharp, sound quartzite. Unfortunately an imminent electrical storm forced us to traverse t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huallanca, Nevada Huallanca, Koso

Nevado Huallanca, Koso. Between the cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash is the small Cordillera Huallanca. Although it does not rise above 6000m, it offers beautiful mountains with glaciers and rocks. David Rodriguez Lopez climbed the mountain known ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Palcaraju Este and Copap Group

Palcaraju Este and Copap Group. Although our expedition was away from Switzerland from May 22 to September 11, we climbed for only five weeks. We were Pierre-André Jaunin, Lucien Rentchnik, Michel Duport and I. After three weeks struggling with th...


Notes ANAM
Avalanche School at Alta, Utah

Avalanche School at Alta, Utah. The primary objective of this school, under the supervision of the U.S. Forest Service, was to give training in avalanche studies: terrain analysis, climate analysis, snow studies and records, hazard forecasting, pr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu

Manaslu. After the German-Swiss expedition mentioned above had climbed the peak, Germans led by Günther Sturm repeated the ascent also by the normal route. They placed Camps I, II, III and IV at 5200, 6200, 6800 and 7400 meters on April 19 and 28 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Cutthroat Peak

Cutthroat Peak. In August, Hugh Sincock and I climbed a new route on the southwest side of Cutthroat Peak. This is a clean, winding gully that joins the west ridge just below the summit. It is the second gully right (south) of the ridge. The climb...