HENRY LEWIS STIMSON1867 -1950The public career of Henry Stimson is familiar. As a lawyer, U.S. District Attorney, unsuccessful candidate for the Governorship of New York, Secretary of War under Taft, Governor of the Philippines, Secretary of State...
East Greenland. Our expedition, Derek Fordham, leader, Arthur Clarke, Dennis Kemp, David Morgan, Don Roscoe, Michael Tuson and I, planned to visit the Kristians Glacier region, east of Mount Forel, and continue exploration commenced by the British...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 11 August, Larry Gee (15) and Mike Montgomery (15), along with three other boys and two girls, of about the same age, started at 11:00 a.m. to climb the talus slope just south and west of Le Conte Memorial. A...
El Misti, Cordillera Volcánica and Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca. Dick Birnie of Dartmouth College and I spent a productive month in the Arequipa area, visiting El Misti and Ubinas. Our first climb of Misti (19,166 feet; probably first climbed b...
Blockhouse Tower. In the latter part of July 1949, having a couple of days to squander, Ralph Turman and I set out for the fine granite spires of the Cashmere Crags. To our surprise and regret, mosquitoes were out in very great force. Nevertheless...
The Mountaineers. The Seattle climbing program, under the leadership of Steven M. Cox, continues to address the related issues of access, conservation and growth management. Most significantly, in 1995 an optional conservation service requirement ...
ROBERT C. LINCK 1905-1970The American Alpine Club has lost a devoted friend with the untimely death of Robert C. Linck on July 17, 1970, at the age of 64. He was born in Philadelphia on December 24, 1905, and graduated summa cum laude in engineeri...
Nevado Yerupaja Grande. Equadorian Santiago Quintero climbed the west face of NevadoYerupaja Grande (6634m). The main summit of Yerupaja had gone many years without an ascent until Santiago climbed it solo on July 4. The ascent and descent took hi...
The Second Northwest Mountaineering Conference. Dedicated in large measure to the problem of mountain safety, and to search and rescue technique, the conference was held at Snoqualmie Pass in the State of Washington on 4-5 June 1949. The Washingto...
East Africa. The Iowa Mountaineers sponsored an expedition to East Africa in July and August. Thirty experienced climbers from ten states and two foreign countries participated (including five A AC members). In the Ruwenzori range in Uganda four m...
Pumori. Our expedition was composed of teacher-guides in the Ecole Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme at Chamonix: Yves Pollet-Villard, leader; Pierre Blanc, Jean Coudray, Yvon Masino, Georges Payot, Raymond Renaud and me as deputy-leader. From Kathm...
Manaslu from the South. Our climbing party was composed of Janusz Kulis, leader, Aleksander Lwow, Krzysztof Pankiewicz, Ludwik Wilczynski and me, Poles, and Andreas Müller, Swiss. We set up Base Camp on September 13 at 4250 meters on the moraine o...
Cordillera Apolobamba, various ascents. In July and August we did some climbs in a remote area of the Peruvian Apolobamba along the Peru-Bolivia border. Few climbers have visited this area. In 2004 Peter Butzhammer, Benjamin Reuter, Dr. Stepfan Fu...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons/Winthrop Glacier RouteOn June 3, Doug Thiel (40) and his two climbing partners summited Mount Rainier via the Emmons Glacier Route. ...
Razer Valley. The Kyushu Dental University expedition was composed of the leader Seishiro and five others. Starting from Kabul on July 1, they got to Base Camp in the Razer valley on the 12th. P 5523 (18,121 feet) and P 5623 (18,449 feet) were cli...
RICHARD C. HOUSTON1922-1982A phrase used by Dick Houston over his many years climbing and trekking points to the essence of the man. It would be under adverse conditions—say, three-fog-bound in a two-man mountain tent with hostile elements closing...
The Bugaboo Howser Watershed, Purcell RangeJ. Monroe ThoringtonACROSS the Columbia River at Spillimacheen, above a line of slender, waving poplars, rises the range of mountains within the forks of the Salmon, all powdered with fresh snow, Mt. Ethe...
Number ofTotalAccidentsPersonsReportedInvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSACANUSACANUSA CANUSA CAN19511522113195231351713195324271212195431413181955343928619564672541319574553281819583239231119594225623101921960474641237819419614996114451014419627119016401...
Shipton SpireFree as can be in the Pakistan Karakoramby Steph DavisThe glacier below is so gothically crenulated and gnarled it makes my brain hurt. It’s like a wedding cake that got dropped on the floor. A friend told me that this part of the wor...
Api. The veteran 71-year-old climber, Piero Ghiglione organized a very small Italian expedition which climbed Api (23,399 feet) in northwestern Nepal. However, the expedition ended in tragedy. After the four climbers had established their base cam...