The First American Ascent of Mont BlancTHE HOWARD MANUSCRIPTSJ. Monroe ThoringtonDR. JEREMIAH VAN RENSSELAER and his friend, William Howard, received their degrees in medicine in 1817 from the University of New York and the University of Maryland,...
“The World’s Worst Weather”Alan A. Smith*MOUNT WASHINGTON, in New Hampshire, is said by many to have “the worst weather in the world.” The point is arguable—Fitz Roy in Argentina and Mount McKinley come to mind—but it is true that clouds, high win...
1951-20082009GeographicalNumber ofTotalPersonsNumber ofTotalPersonsDistrictsAccidentsDeathsInvolvedAccidentsDeathsInvolvedCANADA*Alberta5201421033British Columbia317119641Yukon Territory372877New Brunswick100Ontario37967Quebec311063East Arctic8221...
Pt. 5,650m, Gateway Ridge, not to summit; Jangpar Glacier, reconnaissance. Hanging to the east of the greater Miyar Valley, the Chhudong (a.k.a. Tawa) Valley is predominantly flat, save for a slabby cliff situated just before the Chhudong Glacier....
Number ofTotalAccidents ReportedPersons InvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164019119...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. Ours was the first official expedition from what was East Germany to attempt an 8000-meter peak. We attempted to make the third ascent of the Buhl route on the Rakhiot side of Nanga Parbat. Base Camp was established on May 19...
Mount Hunter, Attempt on South Face. After our arrival in Talkeetna, the weather continued poor until June 20 when clearing enabled Don Sheldon to fly Dean Rau, Duane Soper, Paul Harrison and me to the south side of Mount Hunter. An airdrop had be...
Hajji Brakk & K7Alone among the granite spires of the Charakusa Vallley, Pakistan.Steve House“Malo levo,” Marko requested, and I obliged. With a step I triggered the sweet spot, and we watched in awe as a slab avalanche rumbled down our up-tra...
Boulder Climbs South. Richard Rossiter. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1989. 411 pages, numerous maps, diagrams and black and white illustrations. $25.00.Two new guidebooks to Boulder, Colorado by Richard Rossiter have recorded the new route bonanza ca...
Himalaje-Karakorum, by Tom Piaty, ed. Warsaw, Poland, Wiedza Powszechna, 1974. 472 pages of text, with 376 pictures. Hardbound. 140 zlotys ($7.60).I am quick to declare that I know no Polish, but the language is not an obstacle to understanding an...
Peak 41, south summit (6,575m), west spur, attempt. On September 30 Andy Houseman and I flew to Lukla. Four days later we established base camp in a hidden valley below Peak 41 (6,648m), 45 minutes walk from the small village of Khare in the Hinku...
Climbing Rope Tests. This investigation originated from my personal curiosity regarding the advantages of the various types of ropes available and the special attributes of each. For instance, was there a rope in existence suitable for climbing wh...
Cloudveil Dome, South Face. This prominent face has yielded three new routes. The first, Cut Loose, was climbed on August 2, 1977 by Yvon Chouinard and Rick Black on the right portion of the face. The start was about 30 feet to the right (east) of...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF PITON AND NUT Colorado, Mt. RoyalOn Saturday, June 23, the Summit County Rescue Group (SCRG) and the Frisco Fire Department spent a long afternoon rescuing Bob French (47) from a rock face near Frisco.French, a Breckenridg...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT–INADEQUATECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 6, David Craig (32) first met and climbed with a Japanese climber named Tomo (last name unknown). Tomo was experienced and competent. On Sunday they climbed at t...
K2, Ascent and Tragedy. In late May, the American team of Rob Slater, Scott Johnston, Jack Roberts, Richard Celsi and Michael Toubbeh arrived in Pakistan and proceeded via the Karakoram highway to Skardu and then on to K2 Base Camp. The remainder ...
Nupchu. Nupchu (23,059 feet) is located 18 miles northwest of Kangchenjunga on the border of Nepal and Tibet. The first but unsuccessful attempt to climb the peak was made by a Swiss expedition in 1949 from the Tibetan side. (See Berge der Welt 19...
Wyoming—Wind River RangeSquare Top, East Face. The east face of Square Top soars some 3800 feet above the Green River. On September 2 Jerry Fuller and I packed heavy loads along the valley trail and then up a game path climbing steeply on a bushy ...
EquipmentModified Wide-Angle Pitons. Wide-angle pitons have been used to some extent in cracks up to two inches wide1—chiefly, owing to defects in design, in places where only minimum strength has been required. These wide-angle pitons were pointe...
“Pioneer Peaks,” W. Hamill (Toby) Group, Purcells. On August 2, 1969 Paul (4), Bruce and Freda Beck; Suzanne (10), David (12) and Hugh Ector; Kara (3 months), Curt and Gretchen Wagner got a ride from Argenta up an access road to the 6600-foot pass...