Oregon Section. During the summer a project was undertaken on Mt. Hood to search for highly adapted anaerobic organisms known as extremophiles. These sulfur-based bacteria thrive within boiling geothermal geysers and deep inside rocks. The study c...
Scaling an icon is tricky. You have to climb through legend to grasp the stone itself. It took me years to see beyond the in-your-face northwest wall of Yosemite’s greatest icon, Half Dome. Sean Jones, though, is so over it he calls the northwest ...
The Mountaineers. The club, with over 14,000 members, is based in Seattle with branches in Bellingham, Everett, Olympia and Tacoma, Washington. It offers more than 1,000 trips each year in over 20 different outdoor activities, while pursuing a str...
Bugaboo and Vowell Groups. Our party made two minor first ascents in the Vowell group and variants on routes in the Bugaboos. On August 9 Leigh Andrews and I left Boulder Camp, crossed the Crescent-Bugaboo col, traversed the Vowell Glacier to its ...
South Chasm View Wall, The Black Hole. After years of longing gazes and idle dreaming, Jonathan Copp and I found ourselves looking up with apprehension at the vast leaning dihedral of The Black Hole (ca 2,000' V+ 5.12b). A wide crack, at first gre...
FALL ON ROCK—PROBABLY LOOSE ROCKSWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Baxter’s PinnacleOn August 14 around 1745, Jason Coles reported an injured climber near the base of the rappel at Baxter’s Pinnacle. He stated the victim fell 120 feet and susta...
Franklin Spencer Spalding and the Ascent of The Grand Teton in 1898Francis P. FarquharTHE climb of The Grand Teton in 1898 was an outstanding event in American mountaineering, regardless of whether or not it is considered to be the first ascent. I...
Edited by Cameron M. BurnsDoug Coombs 1957-2006Doug Coombs died last spring in a skiing accident in the French Alps while trying to aid a friend who had fallen over a cliff. He was 48 years old. Many writers and magazine editors will recall that D...
Mt. Dickey, northeast face ice.Flying into the Ruth Gorge, I caught sight of an obvious drip of ice on the northeast face of Mt. Dickey. On May 20 Christine Byrch and I left our camp below the Don Sheldon Mountain House in the Ruth Amphitheater.We...
Karyolung. A joint Nepalese Police-Japanese expedition was led by Yoshiyuki Inoue and Yogendra Thapa. After a brief try at the west ridge, they climbed the northeast face, where they placed two camps. On October 31 Inoue, Hiroshi Nishi, Masatoshi ...
Bakhor Das Attempt. After the usual problems and waiting, the British Women’s Karakoram Expedition at last got to the roadhead on the Braldu River and in three and a half days was at Askole. We were Brede Arkless, Ann Reman, Marion Winteringham an...
The Ascent of Glacier Peak 13-21 August 1905Thomas Riggs[A letter from the Hon. Noel J. Ogilvie, International Boundary Commissioner for Canada, makes the best preface to this account of a climb by our late Honorary Member Governor Thomas Riggs, f...
Brothers of the Snow, by Luis Trenker. Translated by F. H. Lyons. 16 plates, 247 pages. London: George Routledge & Sons, 1933. Price 10s. 6d.To those of us whose knowledge of the German language consists of but a meagre smattering of ‘Ski Heil...
TABLE IVResultsState or ProvinceNumber of Persons LocatedNumber of Persons RescuedNumber of Bodies Recovered’63’64’63’64’63’64Arizona 8283*66British Columbia—7—4—1California 51104624912Colorado 4043223154Montana 3—2—0—New Hampshire—0—10—2Oregon ...
Pt. 6,400', Dream of Eggs, and other activity. In June, Dave Hoven, Joel Irby, and I flew to the Ruth Gorge to attempt Ham and Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth. After spending numerous days in a snow cave, we attempted the route. We didn’t place a screw ...
Bashkargolo Zom, Ishporili Gol, Hindu Raj. The Keio University expedition, made up of Takeshi Fuanki, Tetsuro Kubota and Mitsuru Yatabe left Chitral on July 17 and traveled through the Golen Gol, Koghozi and Sachiokuh village to place its first Ba...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. A German expedition, led by Dr. Karl M. Herrlichkoffer and sponsored by the German Institute for Foreign Exploration, made a splendid reconnaissance of the 13,000-foot high Diamir (northwest) face of Nanga Parbat (26,660...
Mt. des Poilus. Guidebook, page 113, for C. Kain read C. Klucker.
Zeuvu Tower, South Face, New Route. On December 3, our team met in Douala, the capital of Cameroon. We had come to climb in an obscure area called the Mandara Mountains that lay along Cameroon’s northern border with Nigeria. Our climbing team incl...
HENRY LEWIS STIMSON1867 -1950The public career of Henry Stimson is familiar. As a lawyer, U.S. District Attorney, unsuccessful candidate for the Governorship of New York, Secretary of War under Taft, Governor of the Philippines, Secretary of State...