East Kahiltna Peak, Homage to Pat. On May 4, Jonny Blitz, Carl Tobin, Vince Anderson, and I pitched a small base camp on the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, below the southeast face of East Kahiltna Peak (13,440'). Weather was good, so the next...
FAILURE OF NUTS, ROCKFALL, CLIMBING ALONECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn August 13, 1982, David Mital (27) was climbing Tangerine Trip on El Capitan when this accident occurred. In a statement following his rescue, he reported the following. He thou...
Mercedario, Southwest Face. The approach of an Italian expedition from Gorizia up the Rio Colorado began on January 13. Base Camp was set up at 12,510 feet still ten miles from the peak. Camps were established at 14,775, 17,725, and 19,675 feet. A...
FALL ON INDOOR CLIMBING WALL-NO PROTECTIONMinnesota, Duluth, Vertical Endeavors Climbing GymTom Upham (27) was climbing the wall with friends about 9:00 p.m. when the accident occurred in the Bananaz Family Entertainment Complex.Upham said, during...
Broken Tooth, east couloir to summit ridge (new bail). In early May, after our Ruth trip [see above], Eamonn Walsh and I arrived on the Coffee Glacier to investigate an unclimbed couloir on the east face of the Broken Tooth. Climbers had eyed this...
FALL ON SNOW–INADEQUATE PROTECTION, HASTEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThis incident happened in May while we were descending the fixed lines of the West Buttress. We happened to be the only roped team (as well as our other two climbing par...
Alpine Invasion Routes from ItalyJ. Monroe ThoringtonTHE Alps form the arc of Italy’s northern frontier from the sea at Ventimiglia to the head of the Adriatic. Milan is the hub for passes leading from the Po headwaters to France; Verona is the ke...
This is the fortieth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the tenth that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: In 1986, there were ten fatal accidents involving f...
Mt. Gilbert, west pillar. Mt. Gilbert (10,225') is an impressive granite peak that lies 90 km southeast of Mt. Waddington, deep in Canada’s Coast Mountains. Although it is the closest 10,000-foot peak to Vancouver, it is one of the most difficult ...
COSMIC RAYS AND MOUNTAIN OPERATIONSSince about the year 1900 it has been known that even the most carefully insulated electroscope would slowly lose its charge. This effect was thought to be due to ionizing radiation from ubiquitous traces in the ...
Bogda, Tien Shan. Our expedition with general leader Iwao Nakai climbed Bogda (5445 meters, 17,864 feet), the highest of the eastern Tien Shan, on June 9 and 10. All nine climbing members, K. Miyagawa, M. Nakazima, T. Fujibayashi, E. Ohno, S. Yama...
St. Elias, Fairweather and Peaks in the St. Elias National Park and Glacier Bay National Park. Many expeditions made their access to the mountains which lie within these parks or near them through Yakutat. Of eight expeditions, only three were tru...
A CHOICE OF MOUNTAINEERING BOOKSAs a step towards making the Library of the American Alpine Club more useful, as well as to stimulate a general interest in mountaineering literature, the Library Committee recently asked five members of the Club, k...
Beacon Rock, East Face Closure. The southeast face of Beacon Rock was closed in July of 1989. The Washington State Park Ranger, Steve Johnson, caught two climbers climbing near the east central buttress. As they were ascending a new route, the ran...
Manaslu, Three Attempts. A large Japanese expedition with a film crew led by Yoshimichi Furuhata hoped to climb and descend Manaslu by the normal northeast-face route. The highest point reached was the site for Camp III at 7200 meters which Furuha...
Pamiagdluk East, first ascents and repeats. During two weeks of perfect weather in the second half of August Daniela and Hans-Jochen Hägele with Andreas and Sandra Holle repeated several of the routes put up by the 1994 Bayerland and 1996 Freising...
Cathedral. Six of eight Japanese led by Keishi Saito reached the summit of Cathedral (6400 meters, 20,998 feet) by the north ridge on September 1 and 2. Base Camp was placed at the tongue of the Bara Shigri Glacier on August 12. Advance Base, and ...
A New Ascent in the Hayes RangeBenjamin Greeley Ferris, Jr.COMING up on the boat to climb Mt. Hayes, we had a chance to study a picture of the second highest summit of the Alaska Range E. of Mt. McKinley, a peak about 13,000 ft., lying nearly 10 m...
General information. Unseasonably early snowfall arrived late in the climbing season, substantially increasing the avalanche risk. Local guides say the climbing season is moving earlier each year. Last year the weather was almost continuously bad ...
The Book of ShadowsThe first ascent of the north face of the Trango Nameless Towerby ERIC BRANDWhen I finally crossed out of Pakistani air space on my way to Bangkok, I was overcome with relief. Our team had completed the first ascent of the north...