“Athena Tower”, East Buttress; Manitou Peak, Northwest Face, Pantheon Range. After spending ten tent-bound days on the Zeus-Pegasus Col, the weather finally cleared. On August 20, Greg Collum, Fred Beckey and I walked to the west end of the col, t...
Falak Sar, Swat Kohistan. After the Meijo University expedition (Kohtaro Ohyama, Yutaka Arita, Munechika Sawada, Yamamasa Ueno and Hironari Hirabayashi) had climbed Mir Samir in Afghanistan, they went through Kalam and Matiltan to the Falak Sar va...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Cleaver.On the evening of July 24, Rainier National Park rescuers, aided by an Army Reserve Chinook helicopter, rescued Tony Leak (47) from the 12,200-foot level of Kautz Cleaver on Mount Rainier. Leak an...
President Range. The ascent direct from Emerald Lake is not mentioned in the Guidebook because of its great length, now superseded by better routes (Stanley Mitchell Hut), but it should be pointed out (C.A.J., xxvii, 127) that in 1908 the ascent w...
Sloan Peak, Full Moon Fever. Sloan Peak has been described as the “Matterhorn of the Cascades” because of its commanding stature. On December 12, under a full moon experiencing a lunar eclipse, Braden Downey, Will Hinckley, and I climbed a long sn...
Huascarán. Paul Dix and Roger Hart reached the summit of Huascarán on July 11. They climbed the normal route through the Garganta.
Siffleur Wilderness. A group led by Bill Putnam, with guides Rudi Gertsch and Frank Stark, and consisting of Jack Cade, Frances Chappie, Ed Johann, Victor Mahler, and me departed from the public campsite near the Siffleur River gorge just south of...
FALL ON ROCK, ROPE SEVEREDNew Hampshire, Eagle Cliff, Shape ShiftersSteve Dupuis and Jon Sykes, both experienced climbers, were attempting to free a climb they had put up as an A4 aid climb some time before. On October 14, they met at the parking ...
Paine Group. A Czechoslovakian expedition from the city of Ostrava, composed of Zdeneck Vlc, leader, Peter Baudis, Leos Korka, Pavel Klimza, Miro Rozehal, Vaclan Sagan, Jiri Tomcala, Jaromir Volny and Ludwick Zahoransky, and reinforced by four Chi...
K2, North Ridge. The Japanese Mountaineering Association led by Isao Shinkai and Masatsugu Konishi was composed of 14 climbers and 29 Japanese support people, since no high-altitude local porters were available. “Base Home” was established on May ...
Punta Numa, So Long Fox. An Italian pair opened an impressive route on the Punta Numa (baptized by Eloy Callado and Cesar Pedrochi after they made the first ascent on August 19,1997). Roberto Iannilli and Luciano Mastracci climbed a line to the ri...
Ishinca and Urus. A light Italian expedition was composed of Santino Calegari, leader, Carlo Nembrini, Graziano Bianchi, Andrea Facchetti and Giuliana Pergo. On August 11, along with the Peruvian Emilio Angeles, all five climbed Ishinca (18,143 fe...
Avalanche film produced by U.S. Forest Service. This movie, entitled “Avalanches to Order,” has recently been completed in little Cottonwood Canyon in the Wasatch National Forest, Utah. The narration is by Lowell Thomas and is directed toward the ...
RAPPEL ERROR-ANCHOR FAILEDColorado, Boulder Canyon, BoulderadoOn June 3 at 1635, the Boulder County Sheriff’s Office was advised of a fallen climber in Boulder Canyon. Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, Pride- mark Ambulance, Nederland Fire Department, ...
Manaslu, Northeast Face (Normal Route). We were leader Hans Eitel, Peter Wömer, Germans, and Marcel Rüedi, Werner Burgener, Norbert Joos, Dr. Vinzenze Ullmann and I, Swiss. After a 12-day approach, we got to Base Camp at 3600 meters on March 28. W...
Copper Mountain. The highest (7840 feet) and most southerly peak of the Liberty Bell—Early Winters Spires ridge system, this pleasant but obscure peak may be approached via a cross-country scramble from the North Cross State Highway. From Kangaroo...
“Four O’Clock Rock," 1991. In June of 1991, we did a route on the rock buttress north of the north buttress of Three O’Clock Rock, for which we suggest the name, “Four O’Clock Rock.” We reached it via the Square Creek Pass Trail. The route begins ...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Mountains, Bugaboo SpireOn September 13, 1989, while crossing the Crescent Glacier after climbing the Kain Route on Bugaboo Sprie, John Ulricson (45) fell ten meters onto a snow bridge ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR COMMUNICATION, INADEQUATE MEDICAL TRAININGCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanAt 0330 on May 15, Matt Christensen (26) and Tony McClane (20) climbed fixed lines to Sickle Ledge on El Capitan and started...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. Kitty Calhoun and I started up the north face of Thalay Sagar on September 18 with seven days’ food, one rope and a portaledge. We hoped to climb the face’s central couloir. Climbing on the lower apron was slowed by thin 60° ...