Uli Biaho Tower, north face; Hainabrakk East Tower and Shipton Spire, attempts. From July 21 to 23 Slovakians Gabo Cmárik and Jozef “Dodo” Kopold made the first ascent of the north face of the spectacular 6,109m Uli Biaho Tower. They climbed the 1...
FALL FROM RAPPEL, POSSIBLE MISCOMMUNICATION, NO HARD HAT New Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeOn February 1, 1992, John High (mid 30s) and his partner walked to the top of the north end of Cathedral Ledge and set up both a rappel anchor and a belay ancho...
DONALD HUBBARD1900-2000Donald Hubbard, whose achievements as a rock climber and alpinist spanned nearly half a century, died of cardiopulmonary arrest on July 20 in McLean, Virginia, less than three months before his 100th birthday.Hubbard did som...
Mt. Rainier, Fickle Finger of Success. From July 21 through July 25, Alex Van Steen and Richard Alpert led a Rainier Mountaineering party of four (David Branton, Mark Kelly, Steve Northern, and Pete Laird) to a summit camp via the westernmost coul...
Middle Cathedral Rock, Center Route on Northeast Face. In 1960 Yvon Chouinard and I ascended the central crack system on the northeast face of Middle Cathedral Rock, hoping to establish a direct route to the summit of the rock. After an uncomforta...
Twaharpies—American-Japanese Joint ExpeditionAlvin E. and Frances RandallFor each of us, the American-Japanese Joint Expedition became a reality as we jumped out of the Cessnas onto the east branch of the Russell Glacier near Mount Bona. Though it...
The Last Unclimbed PeakLeigh N. OrtenburgerCLIMBING HISTORY is not a subject that appeals to everyone. Many mountaineers are content in their climbs of today, without a need to reflect on where such climbs fit into the larger picture defined not o...
Success and Death on Mt. EverestHow the main routes and seasons compare. If you’re going to climb Mt. Everest, you’ll first need to choose a season and a route. Until now, you’d have had to make choices without answers to questions like: Which rou...
Oregon, Mt. Thielson (North Face), Cascade Range—On September 7, Charles Carpenter (20) and Gerry Honey (27) were attempting to climb the unclimbed north face of Mt. Thielson. At about 1:30 p.m., while still several hundred feet below the summit, ...
Mt. Ritter, South Ridge. As we climbed the Southwest Ridge of Mt. Ritter, Ben Craft and I were amazed at the dramatic ridges dropping off to the west and south from the summit. After doing some research, it appeared that the section from Ritter Pa...
AVALANCHE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ADVICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, POOR POSITION, INEXPERIENCE Colorado, Pyramid PeakOn January 28, a party of four climbers headed up Maroon Creek Road south of Aspen during a heavy avalanche cycle, following a major snow ...
During the spring a British expedition comprising Angela Benham, Chris Drinkwater, Titch Kavangh and Andrew Phillips gained permission to attempt Mt. Edgar (aka E Gongga: 6,618m), in the northern sector of the range. (J. Huston Edgar was archaeolo...
Thunder Ridge, West Buttress, Mount McKinley. Bill Holton, Stan Olsen and I left Kahiltna Base with plans to climb a new direct variation between 12,000 and 16,000 feet on the West Buttress proper, a steep section of ice and rock. We set up camp a...
Mount Rainier, North Mowich Face. The Mowich face can be divided into three distinct sections: the south side (on the right) which is basically a smooth steep snow and ice slope its whole length, the central portion which is another smooth steep s...
Right Twin Brother, Los Banditos. In May, Luke Miller and I climbed a new aid line on the Right Twin, 100 feet to the right of Peyote Dreams. The independent line, Los Banditos (VI A4 5.8R), climbs three 60-meter free pitches of varying quality to...
Mount Cooper, Selkirks. Mount Cooper (10,135 feet), the highest peak of the Southern Lakes Group of the Selkirks, lies 10 miles due west of the north end of Kootenay Lake. The Spokane Mountaineers made two exploratory trips in 1961. The chief prob...
Boston Brooks-Traleika Expedition, Alaska Range. Having selected such a grandiose name, our group consisting of William Bousman, Earl Hamilton, William May, Hallam Murray and me set forth to attempt the peaks around the Brooks and Traleika Glacier...
Fail Falling. Royal Robbins. California: Pink Mountain Press, 2010. 190 pages. Paperback. $19.95.Royal Robbins is writing his life story, and what a story it is. The whole project will stretch over eight chronologically ordered volumes. This one g...
Grand Teton, Black Ice Couloir. Almost everyone who has climbed the Grand Teton has been impressed by the great drop-off on the north side of the Upper Saddle and below the Crawl pitch on the traditional route. Though three routes from this genera...
Howse Peak, East Face, M-16. On March 23-27, Barry Blanchard, Scott Backes and I climbed a new route that follows the exciting-looking ice formations on the east face of Howse Peak in Alberta, Canada. The route consisted of about 15 pitches and we...