In Memoriam AAJ
Dudley Tyler Smith, 1902-1994

DUDLEY TYLER SMITH1902-1994Dudley Tyler Smith was born in Denver on February 28, 1902 and died there on May 26, 1994. He became a member of the American Alpine Club in 1928 and in 1920 joined the Colorado Mountain Club after being a guest on a clu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Fairweather and St. Elias Mountains Traverse

Fairweather and St. Elias mountains traverse. On April 25 a group of four acquaintances- cum-friends were shuttled across Haines inlet in an outboard motor boat. At Davidson Point, just across the water from Haines, Kari Medig, Merrie-Beth Board, ...


Feature Article AAJ
Ascent of the Natural Bridge, Zion National Monument

Ascent of the Natural Bridge, Zion National MonumentFRED D. AYRESIn Utah, one natural bridge, more or less, makes little difference. The state already has within its boundaries most of the known bridges and arches of any consequence in the United ...


Club Activities AAJ
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Outstanding among the numerous 1958 mountaineering accomplishments were an ascent of Mount McKinley and a 100-mile ski traverse of the Purcell and Selkirk ranges in British Columbia. Jake Breitenbach and Dave Dingman...


Feature Article AAJ
Hunter and Foraker

SITTING next to our big tent we were unlikely candidates for the Alpine Hall of Fame. Jeff Lowe looked quite natty in a white shirt, glacier hat and army-surplus woolies, and kept us amused with his Don Juan fantasies and ribald jokes. George Lo...

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| Published 1977 | Author Michael Kennedy


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Ruth Gorge, Moose's Tooth, Swamp Donkey Express

Mooses Tooth, Swamp Donkey Express. Zack Smith, Renan Ozturk, and I flew in to the Ruth Gorge on May 17, psyched to find perfect conditions: hard freezes at night but warm enough daytime temps to comfortably wear rock shoes. After a day to pack an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, Lost Feather Pinnacle, Back at Bob's

Lost Feather Pinnacle, Back at Bob's. From August 11-20 Duncan Burke and I enjoyed excellent weather and conditions in Bugaboo Provincial Park. Driving north from Colorado, our main goal was to climb a new route in The Pigeon Feathers group, locat...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

TABLE III Numbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved*1951-81USA1959-81CAN.1982USA1982CAN.TerrainRock17602207516Snow10341875925Ice702396River10200Unknown10401*Ascent or Descent:Ascent14342248926Descent11301414718Unknown2072844Immediate CauseFall or...


Accident Reports ANAM
Off Route—Unfamiliar with Descent, Weather, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton

OFF ROUTE–UNFAMILIAR WITH DESCENT, WEATHERWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn June 11 around 0100, Swis Stockton and Michael Feldman left the Lupine Meadows trailhead with the intention of climbing the Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Pamiagdluk Island, Dinas Not, The Jams, the Jams; Dinas Not, Niviarsiaraq Qaamasunik Nujalit

Pamiagdluk Island, Dinas Not, The Jams, the Jams; Dinas Not, Niviarsiaraq Qaamasunik Nujalit. In 2005 we repeated routes on the 1,340m Baron and added two new routes to Dinas Not, a 100- 110m crag on the slopes below the Baron, closer to the fjord...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock — Washington, Mount Buckner

FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount BucknerOn July 21, 1984, a group of eight climbers from The Mountaineers began an outing whose principal objective was an ascent of the North Face of Mount Buckner (3311 meters) in the Cascade Pass area of North Casca...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Party Separated, Oregon, North Sister

FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATEDOregon, North SisterDr. Bruce Shively (55) slipped on the steep friable volcanic rock slopes below the summit of North Sister and fell 600 vertical feet to his death, down one of three possible chutes. Shively was last...


In Memoriam AAJ
Max Harrison Demorest, 1910-1942

MAX HARRISON DEMOREST 1910-1942Lt. Max Harrison Demorest, glaciologist and Fellow of the Geological Society of America, died on November 30th, 1942, in Northern Greenland when the motor sled he was riding, on a specialized Army assignment, broke t...


Book Reviews AAJ
Climbing and Hiking in the Wind River Mountains

Climbing and Hiking in the Wind River Mountains. Joe Kelsey. Sierra Club, San Francisco, 1980. 400 pages, illustrations, diagrams, maps, bibliography. $8.95.Joe Kelsey, the author of this book, is perhaps better known as a humorist and the talente...


Notes AAJ
Mt. Vinson, Scientific Studies

Mt. Vinson, Scientific Studies. In combination with the climbing and filming objectives of our expedition (see above), we undertook a glaciological study of snow accumulation in the Sentinel Range and also used a high-precision Global Positioning ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped, California, Mount Clark

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED California, Mount ClarkMichael Kalantarian (30) intended to climb the Northwest Arete of Mount Clark on October 15,1986. He had obtained the route description from The Climber’s Guide to the High Sierra, by...


Accident Reports ANAM
Various Falls on Rock, Protection Pulling, Falling Rock, Inadequate Protection, New York, Shawangunks

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLING, FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksIn 2005 there were 14 climbing accident reports, two of which were bouldering falls. Ten of the incidents occurred while ascending. Individuals fell...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Italian Expedition to the Himalaya, Karakoram and Eastern Turkestan (1913-1914)

The Italian Expedition to the Himalaya, Karakoram and Eastern Turkestan (1913-14), by Filippo De Filippi, xvi + 528 pages; quarto, with chapters by G. Dainelli and A. Sprenger. Illustrated with two colored plates, fifteen panoramas, four maps, and...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Victorian Mountaineers

The Victorian Mountaineers, by Ronald Clark. 8vo., 232 pages with 45 photographic illustrations. London: B. T. Batsford, Ltd., 1953. Price, 18/—.The author’s paper in Cornhill Magazine, from which the present volume has been elaborated, was a rema...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, Under a Southern Star, Valle Mariposa, Various Activity South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia

Leeches, carnivorous bees, hacking through thick bamboo jungle on the approach: these are not what come to mind when you talk about Patagonia. But the mystery and secrecy surrounding the many hidden granite walls of the Turbio IV valley (which I...

| Published 2010 | Author Ryan Huetter, AAC