Kangdungmar. An Italian expedition visited the Kingdom of Mustang and climbed in the Thingar region. Their objective was the highest mountain in the region, Kangdungmar. [The first ascent had been made in 1953 by Austrian Herbert Tichy.] On August...
Lonely Challenge, by Hermann Buhl. Translated by Hugh Merrick. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1956. 318 pages; 19 ills.; 3 maps. Price $5.00.Reading about Buhl’s amazing solo ascent of Nanga Parbat, many people have wondered what sort of person...
FALL ON SNOW - UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons GlacierOn July 27, a climbing party of four, including a father, his two teen-aged sons, and Lee Adams (52), was descending the Emmons glacier when one of th...
A.A.C., Southern California Section. Although the Southern California Section is one of the largest in the Club, until 1988 it remained largely dormant (not unlike other Sections). A detailed survey of the Section membership was taken early in 198...
Broad Peak, winter attempt. Italian Simone Moro led a small team to attempt the first winter ascent of Broad Peak (8,047m). His partners were Leonhard Werth and accomplished Pakistani 8,000m climbers Qudrat Ali and Shaheen Beg, from Shimshal. In t...
Zion National ParkAngel’s Landing, Swoop Gimp or Be Dust. Previously unreported is Swoop Gimp or Be Dust (VI 5.10 A2+, ten pitches), located right of Moonlight Buttress and left of the Wages of Sin/Forbidden Corner area. The route was begun by Ric...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONMontana, Hyalite Canyon, Mummy II RouteOn November 30, Stefan Mitrovich (26) and Rob (19) were climbing the Mummy’s second pitch (150 feet, 3+/4-). Stefan led out the initial 100 foot, 70° slope with one placement...
Bylot Island. In May Caroline Cochran, Eric Rosenfeld, Frederick Vosburgh and I engaged in a mini-expedition to Bylot Island. In 1974 Curt Saville, my wife and I had landed on the island and climbed P 4064 a few miles up the previously unexplored ...
Mount Kimball, P 10,310 and P 11,288. Mount Kimball was climbed for the third time but by a new route by Jim Bouchard and José Rueter. In February, Doug Buchanan and Mark Wumkes made the first ascent of P 10,310 in the central Alaska Range. Boucha...
Annapurna II Tragedy. Our expedition, Kozo Sakai, Norio Nakanishi, Nobuhiko Arita, Tuneo Kondo, Hiroshi Okazoe, Takayuki Asada, Ky- oichi Ichikawa, Dr. Yoshiyasu Sawai and I as leader, hoped to climb a new route on the south face of Annapurna II. ...
Aconcagua, South Face. For good reason the Messner route on the south face of Aconcagua is getting popular. At least ten Americans made it in February of 1983. After ten days on the face, Lars Holbrook, Keith Hadley, George? and Thomas? reached th...
Bogda Attempt, 1980. In October, 1980 Austrians under the leadership of Markus Schmuck undertook the ascent of Bogda, the base of which they reached in a 24-day approach via Heavenly Lake. Snow lay as low as 7500 feet. They placed Base Camp at 12,...
Beacon Rock, Final Curtain, 1988. In July of 1988, Tim Olson and I climbed a discontinuous six-pitch arch, slab and dyhedral system up the central east face of Beacon Rock. Tim had attempted the route four times previously with Greg Lyons, Celil C...
Gangstang. A 13-member team from Calcutta led by Bishnu Prasad Roy climbed Gangstang (6163 meters, 20,218 feet), reaching the summit on August 15. Those who got to the top were Bolai Banerjee and Ghanshyam Thakur. Independently of them, Stimit Sri...
Mont Blanc. No. 6 (A.A.J., ii, 365). George W. Heard. Eustace Anderson writes: “When we arrived at the cabin [Grands Mulets], in addition to our own party we found two young gentlemen, Mr. Chapman and Mr. Heard, an American, who had come up with t...
Molar Tooth, North Ridge and two East Face Routes, 1991-2. The Molar Tooth lies a mile north of Cutthroat Peak. Only when viewed from Cutthroat Lake does one see the nearly vertical 1000-foot east face. The first ascent of the Molar Tooth was made...
Mount Adams, Lava Glacier Headwall. On July 3 Mike Swayne and I left our camp at 6500 feet at three a.m. and an hour later reached the glacier 2000 feet higher. After crossing the two bergschrunds, we headed directly up the center of the headwall ...
RAPPEL ERROR – FAULTY USE OF EQUIPMENT, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, POOR ROUTE RESEARCHAlberta, Jasper National Park, Morrow PeakOn July 18, MJ and AB left the climbers parking lot at 0930 to climb Morrow Peak via the guide’s route. Weather was good b...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Correction. On page 278 of A.A.J., 1987, it was omitted that Rüdiger Lang had climbed solo to the summit on August 17, 1986, the day before his companions.
Cordillera Real. The Chileans, Ociel González, Heinz Koch, Alvaro Ramos, and Hernán Cruz, made the second ascent of Ayllaico (17,390 feet) and the fourth ascent of Pico Negro (18,370 feet).