Geschiclttc der alpinen Literatur, by Aloys Dreyer. 8vo., pp. 159. Munich : Gesellschaft Alpiner Bücherfreunde (25th publication), 1938. Price RM. 7.The most noteworthy change of the nineteenth century in the approach to mountaineering was the sup...
Aconcagua, Normal Route, Youngest Person to Ascend. On February 14, Tony Martin, Berkeley Tilton, Richard Garrett, and Ron Garrett reached the summit of Aconcagua by the normal route, the northwest ridge. The ascent was special in that Richard Gar...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Harvard Mountaineering Club climbers ranged over many parts of the country in search of good climbing again this year. At home, the club ran rock-climbing trips to the Shawangunks, Cannon Mountain, Cathedral and White ...
Unrelenting spindrift avalanches and gusty winds blasted and buffeted the portaledge. Our small cocoon of safety on this harsh mountain was slowly being engulfed, as we nervously watched the snow level rise up the fly walls. It had taken five of t...
Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Attempt and Tragedy. A three-man Australian expedition was led by Terry Tremble. All three reached 7550 meters on October 31 in their alpine-style push on the south ridge from Base Camp. This was the fourth day of ascent. That ...
Anilcocha, Cordillera Huagaruncho. The Cordillera Huagaruncho is of low altitude by Peruvian standards, but lying far east on the edge of the Amazon basin, it receives more precipitation and the snow level stretches down to 13,800 feet. Since my c...
Rensselaer Mountaineering Club. Fortunate in having lost a minimum of leaders through graduation, the R.M.C. has been able to expand its activities greatly during the past year. Membership has doubled, and attempts are constantly being made to int...
Pik Stalin, East Face, Pamirs. A group of 42 foreigners and 50 climbers from all parts of the U.S.S.R. met at a 11,650-foot Base Camp in the Altai valley at the northern foot of 23,407-foot Pik Lenin. Most climbed the usual western or northeastern...
Tawoche, East Face in Winter, 1989. Jeff Lowe and John Roskelley made a brilliant and difficult new route on the 4000-foot-high east face of Tawoche. There was comparatively little ice and snow this winter, which doubtless made the climb harder. I...
Tasermiut Fjord, Ketil, west face, first alpine-style ascent, correction. AAJ 2000 reported an ascent, thought to be the fourth, of the 1977 French Route on the west face of Ketil. The two climbers, Americans Jon Allen and Doug Byerly, believed th...
In August, a party of two were climbing the Daddy (5.6) a classic 5-pitch route located in the Amphitheater, Linville Gorge Wilderness Area. The incident started when the lead climber (LC) was 65 feet above the large traverse ledge located on the ...
Argentine Attempt on Mount Everest. Our expedition had government support and therefore included eight military: Lieutenant Colonel H. Cativa Tolosa, Captain N. Azuaga, Lieutenants J. M. Llavar and M. Serrano and Sergeants E. Burgos, G. Robles, A....
Salto del Angel. Three routes have now been climbed beside the Angel Falls, possibly the highest waterfall in the world, which drops some 2800 feet. In March, Spaniards climbed a new route 100 meters to the left of the falls. Nearly all the face w...
Our main target had been Nordenskjold (2,355m), but we were beaten back below the summit ridge by a typically ferocious South Georgia storm. Sailing back along the north coast of the island in clear weather, we made an impetuous decision as ...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Snoqualmie PassOn June 24, 1987, my partner and I (48) had climbed 50 meters of a Class 4 chimney of Chair Peak. Then we came to an easy section. I coiled the rope around my neck and started to angle up. Just as I got direc...
Sudarshan Parbat, Southwest Ridge. Our expedition was successful in climbing a new route on Sudarshan Parbat, mainly because of good weather and good acclimatization of the members. Base Camp was established on the Raktvarn Glacier at 4600 meters ...
Aguja Mermoz, new variation. On February 7, 2004, Maciej Ciesielski and I added five new pitches, onsight at VII UIAA (5.10d) with one short tension traverse (new pitches: VII-, VII- /VII, VII-, VI+/A0 and V+), on the west face slabs between Iperm...
Howser Spire, West Face, Bugaboos. Steve Sutton and Hugh Burton made a new direct route on the west face of Howser Spire. This 3000- foot-high route took three bivouacs and was 40% direct aid.
Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz. In June, I made two forays from La Paz into this range south of Illimani. In the first, I attempted the west side of Nevado Vila Collo (5400 meters) but did not scale the last 200 meters of ice polished by wind and droug...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Mount WhitneyOn October 6, 1989, Louis Morris (31), Steve Nootenboom (33) and Bruce Hubbard(36) were descending the Mountaineers Route on Mount Whitney about 1600, after climbing the East Face to the s...